I'm not sure if the note is lower but its a good bit louder than my buddy's supercharged T100.
I would say it's the intake (fipk) yeah and my 2.5" exhaust behind some Downey headers.
, Thomas

 

I'm starting to wonder if the 7th is the best idea; mainly after reading every 7th vs URD post I could find and seeing how many people are going URD. I guess my major concern with going the way of the URD fuel upgrade kit is the tuning. How hard is it to tune with little to no knowledge on the subject? Can I mess up something pretty bad if I get a little too tune happy with the fuel/timing options? How much time do you need to spend to get your tuning optimized for your engine? I am very software savy, but I'm wary to tread the unkowen waters so to speak. From what I'm reading though, it looks like if the 7th doesn't take care of my fuel issues (which i've seen a few people say it is only so-so when it comes to fixing the lean out issue), i'm going to have to spend a lot more $$$, and then i'm going to be mad that I didn't go the URD route. Any advice?

 

On a side note, when I was driving yesterday I was going up a rather long hill, and gave the ol' beast some gas and was jammin up the hill around 3k - 4k RPM for a short period of time to pass. I noticed an interesting smell in my truck (windows down) and the best I could describe the smell would be maybe exhaust gas smell? Very weird. I never really punch the gas since I'm waiting for fuel mods, but the guy in front of me was driving soooo sllloooowwwww Has anyone experienced this before? Any thoughts to what was happening?

 

Yes, you can get things to the point that the truck won't run. In theory, you could also get things south and create HUGE amounts of ping or leanout at WOT.

_BUT_ - the FTC ships from URD preloaded with maps that are a great starting point for tuning, and unless you're looking at something radical (way small pulley, headers, etc) you won't do any damage to the engine running this map for ever.

Also, you can offload these maps from the FTC and save them on your tuning computer, so you can always reload them if things get out of control.


You can tune forever. I carry a laptop with me in the truck and I tweak all the time. (just this morning in fact)

A good tuner can take those "start here" maps and get you tweaked in about an hour, less on a dyno. A lot of tuning is about understanding what control that you have, and how you interact with that control. It's a learning process...

I had a weird mental block when I first started into this and I couldn't get a feel for it. That cleared up overnight a bit ago and now it's a "breeze" to do.


Umm... "my fuel issues". I just went back and skimmed this thread; do you have evidence of fuel issues on your truck or are you assuming you do because of what we've said here? I couldn't really find anything here where you specifically said that you felt the symptoms of lean out. You _probably_ are runnign lean up top, but I just wanted to be clear with the semantics in that you're adopting what we're saying as gospel. That's "okay" in a way, it's just something to be aware of.


To address your point though, the 7th _will_ fix the issue of lean out on a standard install of a S/C. But, it will _NOT_ give you enough fuel (and timing adjustment) to adjust for things like a smaller pulley, headers, mister, etc. To get that out of the 7th, you will need the SplitSecond AIC (which URD sells). That installs as a piggyback to the 7th's piggyback and will give you more control of the 7th.

I said this before, but if you walk down this path, then you're into tuning with a laptop - and the experience isn't unlike that of going the "larger injector" route in the first place.

 

Mark: Thank you again for your quick and thorough replies

I had made the "my fuel issues" remark because I believe towards to beginning of this thread, mastacox had mentioned that some of the symptoms I had mentioned sounded like a lean out issue. I still have those symptoms, and from what I've read the lean out problem is very popular, so that’s why I decided that I more than likely had a fuel issue

I guess I'm just not sure how far I will be wanting to go as far as installing headers, smaller pulleys, misters, and the like; so that's making me wonder if the 7th is the best way to go. As of right now, I only foresee myself getting the fuel mods set up, and that’s about it. However, I'm not sure how many people on here thought that just the fuel mods were going to be all they were going to do, and ended up with a totally modified rig Would a cat back exhaust setup and an amsoil filter with the elbow removed (elbow removal included in the 7th setup correct?) be alright with the 7th? I think that’s as far as I would want to take it for quite a while.


Thanks again!

 

Oh yeah, absolutely!


Have fun!

 

Quick Question: I have been doing a lot of searching on here for spark plug wire info., but I haven't found any consistent answers, other than NKG or OEM for stock engines. What would be the best spark plug wire set for a supercharged 3.4 though?

 

OEM work just fine - the S/C doesn't do anything to increase the output of the coils so there's nothing wrong with the stock set.

Some folks (myself included) run larger diameter wires (stock is 6mm, I run 8mm) but while I _think_ they help, I haven't done a dyno test to prove it - and I don't think anyone else has either. It's easily all in my head.

Bottom line... a straight set of stock OEM plug wires are cheap and just fine.

 

Does anyone know which setup this 4runner has under its front bumper? http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/4Runne...ion/steve8.jpg

 

Umm, are you talking about the D-rings, the skidplate, the OME shocks, the valance, ???

 

hahaha, you mean you don't read minds Mark?! sorry for the vague question, I think I was already well into drinking myself under the table by the time I posted that.

and as for your question, I was talking about the D-Rings and the skidplate.

 

doh!


Ahh!

Well, the D-rings are pretty commonly available... the thing you have to watch out for is that the location that they're shown in the pic is NOT strong engough for a tow point. Those brackets there are ONLY used for tying down the truck during shipment. If you toss a D-ring in there and yank on it, you'll tear it right out. Folks will usually find a shop to weld (or diy) a plate that matches the "triangle" as reinforcement.

Skidplate wise, I'm not sure... all those bolts on the front lip are throwing me. But many of us here are mighty happy with BudBuilt. I'm well on the way to beating the crap out of mine and it's barely scratched.

 

Has anyone mixed a 1" 4crawler body lift with the Sonoran Steel System #1 setup? I'm still researching everything I can about lifts and I couldn't find any info regarding mixing and matching something like that. Hopefully this question isn't to stupid..

 

In the last few months I have read EVERY thread I could find on YT regarding the 7th injector and URD kit. I was really set on going with the 7th route for the plug and play aspect, but from what I've read, I would more than likely want to get the AIC after a while anyways, and then I'd be doing the tuning that I was trying to shy away from in the first place. So I have decided to jump on board and go with the URD kit, which I will order as soon as I have the $$$. How hard is it to tune the URD Fuel Kit compared to tuning the AIC? If I'm going to be tuning, I might as well go for the full package at a lesser price right?

I would also like to start purchasing the gauges and engine tuning tools so I can get a good idea of where my truck is now. mastacox said I will need an EGT and AFR gauge. I would also like to get the auterra ODB-II/Dyno scan tool for my laptop. Are these logical purchases? Is there anything else that I will need to get my base numbers and to tune the URD kit?

Thank you very much for any help you can provide.