Need Help with cracked manifold on 1995 tacoma
04-29-2004, 08:53 PM
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Need Help with cracked manifold on 1995 tacoma
Just found the crack. I hate to replace stock with stock, so I was thinking about getting headers. Is this a spendy venture?
Basically, I pull a boat with my 1995 2.7L 4WD Tacoma and I would like to get more hp if possible.
I also would like to discuss this and other topics with an owner of the same type of truck. I have other problems.
Thanks guys and you have a great place here.
Go goat truck
Basically, I pull a boat with my 1995 2.7L 4WD Tacoma and I would like to get more hp if possible.
I also would like to discuss this and other topics with an owner of the same type of truck. I have other problems.
Thanks guys and you have a great place here.
Go goat truck
04-30-2004, 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by GoatTruck
Just found the crack. I hate to replace stock with stock, so I was thinking about getting headers. Is this a spendy venture?
Basically, I pull a boat with my 1995 2.7L 4WD Tacoma and I would like to get more hp if possible.
I also would like to discuss this and other topics with an owner of the same type of truck. I have other problems.
Thanks guys and you have a great place here.
Go goat truck
Basically, I pull a boat with my 1995 2.7L 4WD Tacoma and I would like to get more hp if possible.
I also would like to discuss this and other topics with an owner of the same type of truck. I have other problems.
Thanks guys and you have a great place here.
Go goat truck
04-30-2004, 12:30 PM
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How about that! I just replace my manifold due to a crack. Same year and engine -- hmm, I wonder if Toyota has a systemic problem. Kind of old to get a recall going.
I used the NWOR Tri-y headers. It is a very tight fit (had to bend a brake line to keep it from touching the pipes), but they are worth the work. I haul a camper sometimes, and I needed the extra low RPM torque. It helped a lot. I find that instead of having to down-shift at 2000, I can get down to about 1700 or 1800 before it requires shifting. Without the camper, I find myself using 5th gear a lot more often - the low end has got a lot more torque.
Due to the super tight fit, it took about 6 hours to get it installed. You will have to loosen a couple more fittings than you would think at first. You also cannot put the studs in and then fit the header over them. Hold the header against the block, then thread the studs into the block.
I highly recommend soaking the studs, bolts, and nuts with Kroil the night before. It is the best penetrating oil I've ever used. Don't forget fasteners for the sensors, and catalytic connector.
You will have to remove the exhaust brace - the header doesn't need it. You will have to add spacers to the bolts, or do what I did - cut the brace so that just the bolt area remained. Otherwise you cannot tighten the bolts.
Be sure to torque the different fasteners to the manual's specifications.
I also didn't think the header was "no gasket" flat, so I used a stock Toyota gasket, as well as the RTV gasketing material from NWOR. I did get the NWOR stud set, instead of trying to re-use the original studs.
Good luck.
I used the NWOR Tri-y headers. It is a very tight fit (had to bend a brake line to keep it from touching the pipes), but they are worth the work. I haul a camper sometimes, and I needed the extra low RPM torque. It helped a lot. I find that instead of having to down-shift at 2000, I can get down to about 1700 or 1800 before it requires shifting. Without the camper, I find myself using 5th gear a lot more often - the low end has got a lot more torque.
Due to the super tight fit, it took about 6 hours to get it installed. You will have to loosen a couple more fittings than you would think at first. You also cannot put the studs in and then fit the header over them. Hold the header against the block, then thread the studs into the block.
I highly recommend soaking the studs, bolts, and nuts with Kroil the night before. It is the best penetrating oil I've ever used. Don't forget fasteners for the sensors, and catalytic connector.
You will have to remove the exhaust brace - the header doesn't need it. You will have to add spacers to the bolts, or do what I did - cut the brace so that just the bolt area remained. Otherwise you cannot tighten the bolts.
Be sure to torque the different fasteners to the manual's specifications.
I also didn't think the header was "no gasket" flat, so I used a stock Toyota gasket, as well as the RTV gasketing material from NWOR. I did get the NWOR stud set, instead of trying to re-use the original studs.
Good luck.
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