trd6209

Okay guys,
I just received my shipment from Downey for my coils and my Ceramic headers and full exhaust. It took 2 days to get here. I was thrilled. When I opened the box I realized that there was no muffler. To my disappointment the invoice was in the mailbox saying that the muffler was backorder. When I placed the order, they told me that the entire system was in stock and would ship together. Well. I can live without it for a day. The major source of confusion for me was when I opened my box labeled 1741030C (Ceramic Coated Headers for those of you who don't memorize Downey's Part Numbers) A pair of Stainless Steel looking headers was staring at me. I would figure that the Ceramic Coated headers would look significantly different. I figured that it would be pretty obvious that the insides of the headers were coated, but I really can't tell. Am I wrong. Is it such a light coat that I should not really notice or should it stand out? I am going to start slapping this thing in tomorrow so I want to be sure (especially since they are about $100 more than the regular headers. Please put my mind at ease.

kevin444

If it looks like chrome thats stainless steel. Ceramic Coated headers look like grey. Kinda like Pencil lead but of a more lighter shade. In my perception downey fuX0red your order.

Mr pogo

These are what ceramic coated headers look like, kind of a translucent dull silver.

trd6209

That F-in' sucks. I put them in today and they sure as hell look chrome to me. I am not too happy about this at all. Hopefully they will let me send them a picture and then they comp me the difference. I sure as hell ain't taking them back out to send them back.

trd6209

Well, today I got to work. I was on my own so it took a little while. It wasn't as bad as I had anticipated, but the cross tube was a serious Biyatch. My lined up and went right in. My Right one was another story. I had a friend stop by and he helped me get it lined up and I managed to get 5 bolts in. My buddy had to leave so that's where I sit. one bolt shy of install. I am waiting for a hand so I can get it finished tomorrow. Unfortunately they send me everything but the muffler so all I can do is hook it up to the Cat and then start on my springs. Anyone have similar problems with the header alignment. this last bolt is a pain, but I will get it in sooner or later. Any Ideas?

trd6209

Oh and by the way....what if I just capped both ends of my EGR and my Reed Valve rather than reinstalled them? I got them all together, but my buddy told me that I'd run like a bat outta hell if I did away with that crap.

Mr pogo

Dont be surprised if you get poor mileage, spark knock or driveability problems.

rockota

??????????????

trd6209

Really, I thought that EGR was all about recirculating exhaust to burn it again. If this is primarily an emissions thing, why would it hurt? I am not sure I understand

ChickenLover

The purpose of the egr is to cut back on emissions by helping your engine run at a cooler temp. I've heard you may actually experience better gas mileage by blocking the egr. Can't say for sure though and don't know if blocking it is safe or not.

Mr pogo

EGR operation has been incorporated just about all manufacturers fuel injected engine ECM/PCM parameters, not familiar with Toyota programming but Im sure they have also.

So simple answer is, during EGR operation the ignition timing can be advanced more due to the slower flame travel which helps temp and mileage without causing engine knock/ping.
When the EGR is removed or disabled, during the engine conditions calling for EGR operation, spark knock and pinging can happen and there will be a lean fuel condition due to the higher air ratio. Without the exhaust gases to slow the flame propogation there will be too much timing advance. On vehicles that have knock sensors and ECM controlled ignition timing maps, the ECM will retard the timing causing poor mileage and probably other symptoms.

In my personal experience, the only computer controlled vehicles that work properly with EGR removed have had the ECM reprogrammed. I do not know if the aftermarket has developed the software for Toyotas to do this. There is a small chance Toyota 2nd gen programming is so simplistic removing the EGR will have no bad effect on engine driveability but I doubt it.

*edited for poor wordability*

trd6209

thanks for all the good info on the EGR and Reed Valve. Got my headers finished today and now I am just waiting for Downey to send me a damned MUFFLER! When I bought the kit, I ordered the whole thing from Headers back. I was happy that they had the headers in stock. I had heard that it can be months of waiting if you call at the wrong time. When I hit them up, they had a few left. Of all of the crap that would go backorder it had to be a freakin' muffler that I could go to Autozone and get! Talk about luck.

trd6209

By the way, anyone slapped this downey exhaust kit on? Kinda wondering how much cutting I am gonna have to do and how well these clamps hold up to welds. Just curious because it looks like I got a lot of cutting to do. The left side header to Y-pipe tube looks about 2 inches longer than the right one. Maybe it's just me. Trying to figure it all out. I am sure when I get the entire setup in and laid in place, it will all be more obvious

trd6209

Headers in. Exhaust Tubing to Catalytic Converter Cut and in place. Still waiting on Downey to ship my muffler!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Anyway, I got an exhaust leak at my left header outlet to the downpipe. Downey gives the world's junkiest clamps with their exhaust kit and as a result, I got a leak. Anyone recommend another type of clamp. I have seen some at summitracing.com that are like sleeves and are supposed to apply pressure evenly. The more I tighten the cheap-ass clamps from Downey the more the pipes leak. I tried backing them off and re-seating and for whatever reason it isn't working out. Everywhere else is ok, but after I take it out on the road for a test drive and the exhaust gets hot, the Header squeals at the clamp where it's leaking. Anyone ever heard this before? sounds like a loose pulley belt. kinda nuts. How about a recommendation on clamps? I would love to weld it all up, but I can't weld the downpipe to the header.


For those of you who are considering the downey exhaust...listen to the rest of these guys who say go to a muffler shop and have one custom made. You'll save money and it won't be as much of a headache. I would have been better off doing that, but I am stubborn and wanted to do it myself.

Mr pogo

If you are talking about replacing U bolt type clamps on a leaking slip fit connection, try stainless exhaust band clamps. Napa sells various sizes so measure the diameter of the smaller pipe and get that size. They will stretch to seal when tightened down, a 1/2" impact gun is recommended when tightening as you want the bolts very tight.
This is what they look like http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...X/appId-384355

A bit of advice on your header mounting bolts. Retighten them every day for a week when engine is cold before driving it, after that check the bolts once a week for a month. After that rechecking every oil change should be ok. If you dont retighten them you run the risk of burning out a header gasket or losing header bolts, it takes awhile for the header gasket to compress fully. Also should use antiseize on the header bolt threads before installing.

trd6209

Thanks for the advice. I figured that those clamps would do the trick, but I have no experience with them so I wanted some advice.

As for the Header bolts, that's a great Idea. Did you put a torque wrench on yours or did you just tighten them up using the calibrated elbow? I can't see getting a torque wrench on the bottom bolts on the right side header. I guess you can if you get creative, but it does not look fun

Mr pogo

I just tighten them up with a wrench. Yours being aluminum heads just dont overdo it to the point of stripping out a bolt.
If you have never had headers be aware those suckers get very hot very quick compared to cast iron manifolds, just a minute or two of running can be enough to burn skin off.

trd6209

Finally got my muffler in and the 2 rear exhaust pipes were not even close to what I was looking for. The bends that cross over the top go into the spare tire well and do not fit well at all even when cut because the part that extends over top of the rear Diff is too long. I am going to have to cut this stuff up and go with a custom job from the muffler back. I am not happy that I had to wait for 3 weeks for a muffler that I could have bought down the street to begin with. Now I am a bit more aggrivated that I will be making my own exhaust plumbing.

Moral to the story is don't bother with the Downey exhaust. The headers were good stuff, but the exhaust is crap

williemon

Did you ever figure out if they were ceramic coated or not? Make sure you dont strip the head threads since they are alum. Also, for future ref for me, will any headers, on any engine have the issue of the header bolts getting loose? If so, what would be the best way to keep them tight? Alum and Iron heads also.

trd6209

My headers were ceramic coated. I called them and they told me that it's a common source of confusion. it became more obvious after I installed them and they got scratched while putting them in place.
as for the header bolts, I sprayed everything down with PB solvent and most of the old exhaust manifold bolts came out pretty easy using jam nuts. One hole looked to be spitting out threads with the stud, but I was very careful when I put the new bolt in place and it tightened up just fine. The key on this project is to have a second set of hands on the right side to move the bottom end of the header around while you carefully get the bolts lined up. Due to the lack of clearance around there, I don't see me getting a torque wrench in there. I bought a $9 3/8 drive short ratchet from Checker and that was was great for getting the bottom row of header bolts installed. I was able to get the stubby ratchet in behinde the headers and tighten the bolts down. To torque them I just went snug on each bolt several times in series until they all felt good and tight. I will continue to do so for a while to make sure that they are not backing out. All in all, the headers were easy. I could probably do another set in about half of what it took me this time since I know the tricks and such. All the talk about needing a body/suspension lift in order to make this work is nonsense. I don't have a lift and it went in okay. Actually the worst part was getting the old crossover out, but I managed okay. This is not to say that a lift would not have made this a hell of a lot easier, but it isn't entirely necessary.