My bad idle and 3 cylinders
#1
My bad idle and 3 cylinders
Well ive pretty much narrowed my idle problem to the number 1 clinder, i pulled the spark plug off and BAM... wait no nothing happened. Aw crap its not the spark plug or wire, both are new and i checked em and even tried diffrent ones and there is a spark going to it. So my question is could it be rings? piston? i need some help.
#6
Yeah, but that's gonna be a pain in the neck, especially if that's not the problem. But you think they look fine from the top and everything? Is it just the plug on the one cylinder that looks bad? Is the timing allright?
#7
timing is perfect, idle is set right, tps is right, no vacum leaks, ive been working on everything to find the problem and then i went to check plug wires and found that cylinder 1 wasnt firing. Valves look good, engine oil looks rally clean, timing chain is on right.
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#10
it could be an injector but i was looking at them today. I have a ticking on my 3rd or 4th cylinder injector but my problem is with the 1st cylinder. Can i just check the resistance to see if thier still good, and how hard are they to take out and clean?
#11
Ok, injector noise is normal. The injectors you are hearing, are operating. If you have one that's ticking quieter than the others, then there "might" be a problem with it. To check an injector, pull the plug from it, and check the resistance across the contacts of the injector, not the plug.
The reading should be as follows:
1984-1987 Non-Turbo (1.5 to 3.0 ohms)
1987 Turbo (1.1 to 2.0 ohms)
1988 Non-Turbo (1.0 to 2.5 ohms)
1988 Turbo (1.1 to 2.0 ohms)
1989 and later "all models" (13.4 to 14.2 ohms)
If you find a bad one and have to remove it, you'll have to take the air intake chamber off, as well as the fuel line banjo connector. You'll also have to unplug various wires and sensors to gain access to the fuel rail. Mark them as you disconnect each one and re-assembly will go much better. And make sure you have a new gasket for the air intake chamber. You should also check and replace the injector seals and always replace the injector o-rings.
The reading should be as follows:
1984-1987 Non-Turbo (1.5 to 3.0 ohms)
1987 Turbo (1.1 to 2.0 ohms)
1988 Non-Turbo (1.0 to 2.5 ohms)
1988 Turbo (1.1 to 2.0 ohms)
1989 and later "all models" (13.4 to 14.2 ohms)
If you find a bad one and have to remove it, you'll have to take the air intake chamber off, as well as the fuel line banjo connector. You'll also have to unplug various wires and sensors to gain access to the fuel rail. Mark them as you disconnect each one and re-assembly will go much better. And make sure you have a new gasket for the air intake chamber. You should also check and replace the injector seals and always replace the injector o-rings.
Last edited by Joyota; Nov 4, 2004 at 07:28 PM. Reason: I said cylinders, when I meant injectors.
#12
Also, when you take the fuel rail off, there are two bushings that help align it with the manifold. Be careful not to lose them. They are about 3/8" in diameter and about 3/8" long.
#13
ok i know for a fact now its the cylinder 1 injector, also 4 is pretty much crap so i wouldnt doubt the others arent in good condition, so im gonna order new ones, should i get the same ones or ones that have a little bit more output flow?
#14
I've seen somewhere on Yotatech, that you can send those babies in and have them rebuilt and recalibrated for much less than new. I would be afraid to know how much Toyota wants for a set of them. Search and ye shall find.
#15
Here it is: http://www.cruzinperformance.com/fuelinj.html
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