i have a new reman engine that i broke in with regular oil. after 2,000 miles i switched to royal purple, and wix oil filter and after 2,500 miles since I changed to royal purple my oil is pretty dark, leaning towards black although I can still see the the L and H on the dipstick under it. i have new o2 sensor new pcv valve, and everthing else is new too. don't know why its so dark after 2,500 miles. I also have a open cone air filter, that my be it. all I know my truck runs great!

jdw

 

Not all GMC's have syn of the lot.. sure a $$$$ motor like a vet motor can be run with syn off the lot, but if it doesnt come with syn I wouldn't switch until at least one full interval of miles has passes. Even thou its a toyota motor and a quality motor it wont have the motor a vet has, based on cost and production numbers. And there is also no need to flush a new engine, only an old one that may have sludge built up in it.

 

John, Mobile 1 and most synthetic products recommend that you flush your engine when switching from one to the other. How much sludge you have has nothing to do with it. Full synthetic and regular oil products do not mix well.
Don't know where you got your info on or the idea that you need to run a cycle of regaler oil first before switching but I would like to see where that is stated by any of the oil company's or engine manufactures.
Not saying your info is wrong but I want to be sure I haven't been screwing up all these years. Mike

 

QAre AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils and petroleum motor oils compatible?

AAMSOIL synthetic motor oils are fully compatible with all petroleum motor oils, and there is no danger in mixing the two. Mixing AMSOIL and petroleum oil, however, is not a recommended as a general practice. Performance and long drain intervals will be sacrificed and the oil should be promptly changed, at maximum, within the next 3,000 miles.

QIs there a recommended procedure for changing to AMSOIL Motor Oils?

AThere are no special requirements; however, in older vehicles or those with high mileage, it may be advisable to use AMSOIL Engine Flush first. This will ensure that the engine is clean and free of any accumulated contaminants which might have an effect on the service life of AMSOIL Motor Oils. In all cases, it is good judgement to install a new AMSOIL Absolute Efficiency Oil Filter (EaO) every time you change oil.

Q. I heard that new cars require a break in period with petroleum before you switch them to synthetic. How long should this break in period be?

I guess not a matter of "need"; just prefered and I would say advisable. Which is why I wait until 10K, I will get more crap out of my engine and 10K of dino wont hurt the motor. I will have done 4 oil changes and have had 7K of bypass filtering by the time I add syn.

A. AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oil can be used during break-in trouble free. In fact, vehicles such as Dodge Viper and Chevrolet Corvette come factory filled with synthetic oil.

Since most new vehicles come filled with petroleum oil, it only makes good sense to change to AMSOIL at the first scheduled oil change interval. New engine components generate high levels of wear metals and can contain contaminants from assembly. By allowing the engine to operate with the petroleum oil until the first oil/filter change interval, the wear metals and contaminants are removed prior to installing AMSOIL.

Engine Flush has everything to do with sludge and crap; its about cleaning an engine, not getting all the oil out (that should happen by itself when drained)

Engine Flush (AEF)
AMSOIL Fast Acting Engine Flush is made from a carefully selected blend of solvents and special cleaning agents that dissolve and disperse harmful deposits formed in the crankcase, cylinder walls, pistons and rings of an internal combustion engine. When used as directed, it cleans and restores operating efficiency to valves, valve lifters, rocker arms, and pistons for improved horsepower, fuel economy, and performance. Use before changing oil.

 

AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oil can be used during break-in trouble free. In fact, vehicles such as Dodge Viper and Chevrolet Corvette come factory filled with synthetic oil.

Mixing AMSOIL and petroleum oil, however, is not a recommended as a general practice.

Don't know where this question and answer thread came from but if you read it right there is no need to wait to change to synthetic. It makes sense to use the oil it came with until the first oil change at 3000 miles. Why waste the oil and filter,Lol.That doesn't mean that you have to do it that way or that your engine will be hurt in any way.
I'll do some checking of my own and get back to you on the synthetic being compatible with petroleum. Even though Amsoil does not recommend it either.
Mobile 1 used to tell it's customers to not mix it and to flush the engine before using it the first time.
When I was speaking of flushing before and that it had nothing to do with sludge I was speaking of newer engines and flushing just for the purpose of switching from Dino to syn. My statement had nothing to do with older engines. Mike

 

John, Looks like you are right ! I do remember when they first came out with the syn stuff they said not to mix it and the engine should be flushed. Looks like you don't have to worry about it now. Thanks for pointing that out, Mike

Question:
Any Problem Having Residual Conventional Oil in the Engine When Switching to Synthetic?
When switching from petroleum-based motor oil to synthetic is there a concern regarding the co-mingling of residual organic-based oil with the new synthetic oil and if so what are the risks?
-- Don Wilson, New Windsor, NY

Answer:
There should be no concerns with switching your motor oil from conventional to Mobil 1 or Mobil 1 Extended Performance. No special preparation is necessary. Mobil 1 is compatible with conventional oils.

 

Yeah, its not adived to mix it as it degrades the synthetic oil, but wont do any harm..

 

True. A 'rebuilt' engine isn't the same as a new production Toyota engine. The factory builds thousands of engines, and has bore preparation so finely tuned that the brand new engines usually don't use any oil during the first 8000km/5000 miles.

In contrast, most rebuilders, even specialty shops, don't build anywhere close to a thousand of the same Toyota engine. So their data on block preparation can't be as good as the factory's data. Perhaps if you drove a chebby 350 it would be different. That's why most rebuilt engines will drink a quart or two or more during that same 5000 mile period. For that reason, you should use non-synthetics on any fresh rebuild until the oil consumption drops to 'normal' and then switch to synthetics.

As for diesel oils in a gas engine, you might consider doing that if you have a flat-tappet pushrod engine where the cams tend to go flat. IOW, on a domestic pushrod v8 it's a good idea. On an OHC Toyota engine you can run whatever oil is on sale. However, reclaimed or recycled oils aren't a good idea. Just stick with a brand-name non-synthetic for break-in.

 

Makes me wonder why Vettes come standard with moble one synthetics right off the factory line...maybe its not a true synthetic after all. I still hear stories of folks who run synthetics right off the show room floor and experience oil buring problems and what not. The only true way to tell if its holding its own is get analysis done.

 

Mobile1 is a TRUE synthetic and it has been proved many times before. Don't know how or where people get these ideas in there head that Mobile1 is not a true synthetic. Check out there site or follow one of the links I posted above.
Nothing at all wrong with using true synthetics right off the assembly line
or to change it right when you buy a new vehicle right off the show room floor. The only reason I would not is because of the cost of the synthetic when I know that I will be draining that oil out after about 2000-3000 miles just to get rid of any little shavings from the manufacturing of that engine.
By all means go a head and have the Mobile 1 tested. If you want to save yourself some money just do a search on Mobile1 and you will see threads where other guys had there's tested over the years. Mike

 

1st off, I don't mean to be a "Thread Killer" by coming off as "johnny come angry" here......


YET, I aggree with beartracker 100%. All this talk of Mobil 1 not being a true sythetic is simply just "Tom Foolery"...Seriously, has all the Sneaky Amsoil Reps out there brainwashed people that bad? Come on now, People can SAY ANYTHING ON THE INTERNET....people can alter the lab results very easily

FACT: Mobil OIL took a major role in taking Castrol to court because Castrol was trying to say there dino based "synthetic oil" was a True FULL synthetic. BTW, Castol actually won that lawsuit and still trys to sell there crapola as a "true" synthetic oil...its not!!

Now why would Mobil 1 change there formula to Dino based after sueing Castrol for intentionally misleading its customers? That would be very stuipid mistake and they know that they would LOSE ALL OF THEIR CUSTOMERS IF THAT FACT EVER GOT OUT....Come on now, Mobil 1 not being a TRUE synthetic???? After 140,000 Miles on my runner and 7,500 Mile Oil Change Intervals and NO ISSUES. (my engine is so clean, I could eat off of it). That statement is just plain Tom foolery..... Made up non sence started on the internet by a few bias and shady amsoil reps... Amsoil is a good oil, but I hate some of their "back biting" tactics

People (including myself) pay upwards of $6.00 a quart for M1 because it is a 100% TRUE Full synthetic.......
Now why would MOBIL 1 risk all of their HARD EARNED CUSTOMER LOYALITY and their HUGE Market LEADING share by drastically changing a formula that has and continues to bring them Billions of $$$? (That's "Billions" with a "B".)
That's right, they woulden't be that dumb.... would you?

Tom Foolery I tell you!!!!

 

Thats pretty low..... I have never heard the mobil 1 isn't a syn, nor have I said it or advocated it. My family has been using amsoil for almost 30 years and the results are obvious.

 

John, As you probably know some of the Amsoil reps and there followers were really bad at bashing Mobile 1 a few years back. They were really bad for a long time and made all kinds of claims against Mobile 1. It seems that every now and then someone still try's there best to put down Mobile 1 for some reason even though it is still at the top of the synthetic products and prove them selves over and over again. My biggest reason for starting out with Mobile 1 is because I could buy it locally and if I wanted Amsoil I had to order it for some reason. No one around here had it or would order it. Mobile 1 has worked great for me all these years so I never found any reason to switch.Both are good products but I never heard of any reps or anyone from Mobile oil ripping down Amsoil like they did Mobile 1. Mike

 

Jeff,
Absolutly no offence was ment towards you, yet I do think that AMSOIL is a good (if not a great synthetic) oil, and let me qualify what I ment to say about some "AMS oil reps"

"Lines" have been crossed, and M1 has been attacked and attacked over the years and I don't see not one point or one fact to it all....
Trash talking a true market leader is "back biting" and I guess when you are the leader for so long, some people will try tear you down...

I did say "a few Shady reps"....I have no issue with Amsoil or most ams oil reps, as it is likely a great oil and with good honest people working as independant dealers. Yet, like, I said fair lines have been crossed and their is a lot of misinformation intentionally being put out there.

Actually I think their (Amsoils) marketing strategy ulilizing independant representatives is pretty smart, yet I don't think all the trash talk from some Amsoil rep reps is necessary or even true.
I do think their is a few individuals who are routinely putting out misinformation/propaganda focused against Mobil 1 synthetic oil. No question in my mind, I do believe there are some Amsoil reps who are still behind the rumors and inuendo about how "BAD" M1 is for engines.... as on BITOG for example.

Remember, its just "oil" were are talking about people's preference here and we should all keep that in mind.

Hey we still all like our yota's....
we need a...

 

A brand new engine with proper bore preparation can run a synthetic oil from the get go. However, if your (rebuilt) engine block prep isn't as good as the factory's job, you will surely burn a quart or two during that first 5000 miles. If you use synthetic oil before the oil consumption drops to normal, your (rebuilt) engine will consume oil forever.

Are you willing (or dumb) enough to take that risk? I'm not.

Most of the engines that we overhaul/rebuild or build up will consume a small amount of oil (around half quart) for the first 300 miles due to agressive ring seating procedures. This initial oil consumption is normal. We then change the oil with fresh non-synthetic oil, and monitor consumption for the next 3000 miles, after which we can go ahead with synthetic oils with full confidence.

Now, if you have a brand new Toyota, you will have no problems running synthetics right away. With other manufacturers, it's probably a good idea to wait until the first scheduled maintenance to switch to synthetic oils.

 

Some of you may want to read this :
http://www.imperialoil.ca/Canada-Eng...etic_myths.asp

 

Good Info, alot of engine rebuilders (on a rebuilt engine) swear by the "breakin period" with dino for the rings to "seat" properly. Just to be on the safe side, for my fiance's 2007 new camry, I ran dino for 8K and (OCI: changed oil at 1500 miles, 3500 miles and 8K) and then I went over to Mobil 1 and the M1 Filter. I also told her to watch her speeds and continually change up on the highway speed (i.e 60 Mph, then 65, a few minutes later back down to 50 -55 mph ect just for the 1,000 miles.....old habits die hard....especially with a $6,000 engine

I just coulden't get myself to switch over right away......The rational side of me knows that I could of switched right away to M1, yet old habits are real tough to break.....
even when you know better.


I am not an expert on engine design,
"but I did stay a a holiday inn express last night"

 

My 07 tacoma manual still says to do this for the first 500 miles. It also has to do with gears, trannies, etc.. not just the engine.

 

Yea, you are right everyone always thinks of the engine breakin and no one really ever thinks of the trans breaking in slowly and properly. No they just "floor it"....good point

 

Well looks like my question sure stirred up a lively response! Thanks for the info guys. My machine shop did a great job, I was pleasantly suprised by how little oil I managed to burn in the first 1000 miles. Between my buddy (who helped me with my iced tea surplus, while putting this little fella back together) and I no tellin how many motors we've built. He ran Pinto motors for a lot of years on a roundy round track. I was on a mud bog team and ran everything from ford straight 6's to all aluminum big block 14-71 blown alcohol motors. We never ran the syns because the motors came apart too often for one reason or another. But for long lasting motors I just don't see how you can beat a full syn no matter who makes it. My next change will be to M1 Thanks for all the great info.
Jim