lifting my 95 4runner
#1
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lifting my 95 4runner
i need help on lifting my 95 4runner SR5 with out buying a 4 inch procomp lift. is there anyone that can help me.
My rig: 95 4runner SR5
My rig: 95 4runner SR5
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lift
i am also lifting my 95, but i'm starting with about 3-5 inches of body lift. then i will move to suspension. My 33' tsl's shoul come soon, they'll help. i do not know where i'm gonna get my suspension lift from though, what are your plans?
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inexpensive and easy suspension mods are the downey or Old Man Emu rear spring lift sets coupled with a torsion bar adjustment in the front. with that you can get between 1.5 - 4 inches in the rear depending on which one you want. front suspension mods are limited for the 2nd gens like yours and mine without significant cost and time invested in a solid axle.
do a search on the forum search engine for "downey" "torsion bar" and "Solid Axle Swap" and you will find everythign you could ever want to know about 4runner suspensions
do a search on the forum search engine for "downey" "torsion bar" and "Solid Axle Swap" and you will find everythign you could ever want to know about 4runner suspensions
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3-5 inches of body lift
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You might also want to search for info on the "total chaos" lift. It uses longer than stock a-arms, and either t100 axles, or porsche cv's. About as expesnive as a SAS, but retains front clearance, and ability to return the truck to stock IFS.
Downey has a kit that is a milder form of the total chaos lift, using rancho components, and their own high angle joints. They are also working on completely new kit that would be just like the total chaos kit.
In any case, most would agree that you want to change to manual hubs up front, instead of the live hubs you most likely have. THis would allow greater cv angles, decrease cv wear when in 2wd, and improve gas mileage, and front end handling (steering).
Also, i would recommend buying an ifs frame brace (downey, nwor, ...) if you make any big changes to the front ifs. It is only designed for so much .
Hope this helps.
P.S. - I agree with NCSU-4runner about the body lift. If you have an automatic tranny, then your only option is a 1 inch lift from roger brown, or rusty's off-road.
I know that Chris Geiger ran 33's with torsion bar adjustment, downey coils, and some fender seam hammering. Look for info on his old rig on the off-road.com site.
Downey has a kit that is a milder form of the total chaos lift, using rancho components, and their own high angle joints. They are also working on completely new kit that would be just like the total chaos kit.
In any case, most would agree that you want to change to manual hubs up front, instead of the live hubs you most likely have. THis would allow greater cv angles, decrease cv wear when in 2wd, and improve gas mileage, and front end handling (steering).
Also, i would recommend buying an ifs frame brace (downey, nwor, ...) if you make any big changes to the front ifs. It is only designed for so much .
Hope this helps.
P.S. - I agree with NCSU-4runner about the body lift. If you have an automatic tranny, then your only option is a 1 inch lift from roger brown, or rusty's off-road.
I know that Chris Geiger ran 33's with torsion bar adjustment, downey coils, and some fender seam hammering. Look for info on his old rig on the off-road.com site.
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Roger Brown Lift
http://4crawler.cruiserpages.com/4x4/ForSale/
was happy with this lift good directions cool info on web site.
Did however end up buying fire wall bracket and stick shift extensions from performance products like $20.00
later
was happy with this lift good directions cool info on web site.
Did however end up buying fire wall bracket and stick shift extensions from performance products like $20.00
later
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You can pick up a set of manual hubs from Yota Yard for $50. The SAWS usually go for like $120 from Performance Products. I'd tell you the exact number but I dont' even open that catalog unless I absolutely have to or else I want to order something.
To make is simple and cheaper than a 4" suspension lift I would get the Downey HD coils along with the spacer kit. Put manual hubs in the front and crank your torsion bars to match the rear. You can clear 32's EASILY with this set up but if you want 33's you'll need at least a 1" BL but 2" is more desireable. You'll probably want longer shocks for the rear if you plan on wheeling so as not to limit you flex. This set up can be done be for under $500. It's still not cheap though.
To make is simple and cheaper than a 4" suspension lift I would get the Downey HD coils along with the spacer kit. Put manual hubs in the front and crank your torsion bars to match the rear. You can clear 32's EASILY with this set up but if you want 33's you'll need at least a 1" BL but 2" is more desireable. You'll probably want longer shocks for the rear if you plan on wheeling so as not to limit you flex. This set up can be done be for under $500. It's still not cheap though.
Last edited by UKMyers; 07-22-2003 at 11:28 PM.
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To make is simple and cheaper than a 4" suspension lift I would get the Downey HD coils along with the spacer kit. Put manual hubs in the front and crank your torsion bars to match the rear. You can clear 32's EASILY with this set up but if you want 33's you'll need at least a 1" BL but 2" is more desireable. You'll probably want longer shocks for the rear if you plan on wheeling so as not to limit you flex. This set up can be done be for under $500. It's still not cheap though.
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Originally posted by UKMyers
You can pick up a set of manual hubs from Yota Yard for $50. The SAWS usually go for like $120 from Performance Products. I'd tell you the exact number but I dont' even open that catalog unless I absolutely have to or else I want to order something.
.
You can pick up a set of manual hubs from Yota Yard for $50. The SAWS usually go for like $120 from Performance Products. I'd tell you the exact number but I dont' even open that catalog unless I absolutely have to or else I want to order something.
.
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