Well, today I went to a local salvage yard to try and find some misc. parts for my 4runner. They only had one gen 3 4runner in their yard. Heck, I think it's the only one in yuma. To my surpise it had the opinion that I wished I had a rear locking diff. the axle/third member/wiring where all there . The only thing I could see is that the axle needs to be clean up and repainted no big deal. From the looks of it the car was hit on the front passenger door/fender area. Now I have a few questions:

1. This 4runner is a 5 spd. manual (transmission is still there) and mine is an automatic. Would there be any problems wiring it up.

2. Is there anyway to tell if it's in good condition without tearing the whole thing apart.

3. I asked about the price and the guy would have to sell me the whole axle and not just the third member. He quoted me at $450. Does that sound like a good deal?

4. Would you guys buy the axle and third member from a salvage yard? I would've taken pictures but I had no batteries in my camera but it looks fine from the looks of it.

I wasn't meaning to come across this and was planning to get a locker in the future but this might pull me the other way. I could always buy it and build the axle up and install it at a different time (just an idea).

 

Diff will be the same, auto or manual. Only problem will be the gear ratios. They are probably different. An easy way to tell the condition of the diff is to pull the drain plug. look at the color and smell of the fluid, and if there are any shavings on the drain plug. Color should be a greenish color, and there should be no metal pieces on the plug (a thick pasty substance is normal)

$450 for the whole axle is a killer deal. I paid $400 for the 3rd alone, and I thought I got a good deal. No problems with a junkyard axle, as long as the rig was not hit from the rear or side rear.

 

I am actually looking for this same thing and i would grab that right away before someone steals it from you.

Along these same lines, i want to lock the front as well, can i use the rear diff for that or do i have to get a special front locker?

 

The locking 3rd member wouldn't fit into your non-locking housing, so you'd need to buy the whole locking axle+3rd member anyways.

As for the wiring, I know its a little complicated. I THINK you need to need to get a new ECU. Might want to search to see. I know there have been successful swaps, so I'd say go for it. You might be able to sell your stock axle for half that price and you'd be stoked.

It would suck if you had different gear ratios. It might be the case, but, you might get lucky. I print out the axle code/gear ratio from www.sonoransteel.com and bring it to the yard and see what the door jam says.

 

The door jam is know to be wrong, you will still need to test it by holding on "wheel" and spining the other manualy and count how many times the drive shaft spins.

 

I'd grab it. Even if you have to re gear it wouldn't be that big of a deal. YT member <96 Runner> has swapped one in from a donor rig and I believe has a write up or at least an extensive thread somewhere. Search his posts. Also he lives here in Phx and seems to be a real nice guy and probably wouldn't mind answering some Q's.

 

Got the axle with the e-locker today and the wiring that comes from the locker up to the body. I was only able to get the switch the rest of the wiring was a little messed up. I plan on cleaning it up and replacing the fluid. What would be a good fluid to use?
Pictures:



Total cost less than $500

 

dude you really scored. Does anyone know if that axle would fit into a 2nd gen runner? the link mounts look pretty similar.

 

This is probable due to my stupidity and I don't know if I'm going to phrase this right or even spell right for that matter. Any how when I turn the third member (where the drive shaft bolts up to) only one of the axles will turn(one of the wheels) and when you spin the other side nothing else turns. Is that something I need to worried about or am I just a complete retard? or both.

 

That is how it should work when turning. If you turn one side and hold the pinion the other side should turn the opposite way unless the locker is locked.

You scored pretty well there. It is pretty simple to make your own wire harness to run the locker. You don't want to drive around with it locked, it may cause your ABS to activate upon breaking.

I have the diagram I used to wire my Elocker to my 2000 if you need.

 

This is probable another retard question but hey I won't know for sure until I ask. Can the real axle seals be swapped out? I just got the ones on my 4runner recently changed out last month and I'm wondering if they can be switched over.
If not what are some good seals? Should I just stick with oem or is there an aftermarket brand to go with?
Also, it currently, has no fluid in it since I drained it (plus it cut some of the weight down). Is it okay to let it sit with no fluid in it? Will I need any special tools when I refill it and what type of fluid?

Thanks for the help guys.

 

Stick with OEM seals since I learned the hard way on my '97 and found out that the aftermarket version I bought wouldn't seat properly and were crap after 12k miles.

 

No preference on type of seals here, but you won't be able to swap them out. Since they're pressed in they'll deform when you remove them. They're pretty cheap anyway.

It won't hurt to store the diff with no fluid, assuming everything is slightly coated and oily to the touch. You just want to keep the parts from corroding at all. If you aren't going to replace the pinion seal you'd want to keep that lightly oiled as well.

If it were mine, I'd plan on a minor rebuild of the axle before I installed it. New seals, bearings and even carrier bearings if a regear is needed. Would be easier, cheaper, and more convenient to do all that now.

 

That what I was planning. Hence, why I asked about the seals. Now bearings is a whole other issue because I'm not familar with them.

That's good to know about the whole fluid thing and all. Thanks.

 

Update:

Inchworm harness is on order and an elocker guard from sky should be here this week.

Is royal purple any good and do they diff. fluid?

 

Great score there Wormhole!

80/90 -GL4 gear oil is fine.

 

i run royal purple, and others seem to like it.

 

Okay, maybe I'm just being paranoid but I pulled the protective cover off from around the motor to test fit the motor guard I picked up and I'm wondering does this look right?




Like i said maybe I'm just being paranoid about the rust but I don't know.


This isn't a paranoid question but I'll be pulling the 3rd member out to make sure all is well and was wondering is there a gasket between it and the axle that will need to be replaced and where do i get thatat if there is one. The stealership??

 

yes, there is a gasket. My dealership has to order them

 

The rust is normal. Something about Japanese steel as it seems to rust quicker than US steel.

Mine had rust everywhere too, no biggy, clean it up, test it, paint it and seal it to the 3rd member with good silicone sealer.