Info needed from those running 35" tires
Feb 11, 2009 | 09:52 AM
#21
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From: Stevensville, MI
I have to ask. Why buy new wheels knowing that you have to use a spacer to make them work? I would think you could find some with the proper backspacing.
I'll take all the help I can get.
Feb 11, 2009 | 02:42 PM
#22
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From: cali baby cali
i did a quick check
on a wheel by axis called the regulator. it has a similar look to the one you are looking at mixed a little with the classic II's. i do not however know if they have the proper backspacing but you could always look into them. ive seen them on several prerunners after they showed up in a magazine article a few years ago. and they come in 3 colors!
Feb 11, 2009 | 02:58 PM
#23
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From: Santa Cruz, CA
Thanks for the responses so far. I have read the Sonoran Steel and Trails Less Traveled sites numerous times. Great info there too.
So from what I gather so far, it seems that a 16 x 8 wheel with about 3.5" backspacing will clear the upper A-arm, but could still rub on the frame at full turn.
Keep the responses coming!
So from what I gather so far, it seems that a 16 x 8 wheel with about 3.5" backspacing will clear the upper A-arm, but could still rub on the frame at full turn.
Keep the responses coming!
Feb 11, 2009 | 03:02 PM
#24
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From: Santa Cruz, CA
Alright, so after tons of investigating different wheels and wheel spacer combinations here is what I came up with.
I want to run Eagle Alloy Series 1378 16 x 8" wheels. They have a back spacing of 4.625". In addition I will run SpiderTrax 1.25" thick wheel spacers. This would give me a combined back spacing of 3.375". This should give me clearance to the stock upper A-arm, correct?
FYI, here is a pic of the wheels:
Anyone else run these, or heard anything good/bad about them?
Thanks,
I want to run Eagle Alloy Series 1378 16 x 8" wheels. They have a back spacing of 4.625". In addition I will run SpiderTrax 1.25" thick wheel spacers. This would give me a combined back spacing of 3.375". This should give me clearance to the stock upper A-arm, correct?
FYI, here is a pic of the wheels:
Anyone else run these, or heard anything good/bad about them?
Thanks,
Also, consider the fact the MT II has a negative 22mm offset as well. What is the offset of this wheel pictured?
Feb 11, 2009 | 06:27 PM
#28
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1. How much front suspension lift do you have?
2. What brand of 315/75R16 tires are you running?
3. What wheels, size, and backspacing are you running?
4. Are you running wheel spacers, if so, what thickness?
5. How much clearance do you have between the tire and upper A-arm?
(measurements and/or pictures would be helpful too!)
2. What brand of 315/75R16 tires are you running?
3. What wheels, size, and backspacing are you running?
4. Are you running wheel spacers, if so, what thickness?
5. How much clearance do you have between the tire and upper A-arm?
(measurements and/or pictures would be helpful too!)
2. 35x10.5
3. stock 16x7 wheels
4. 1.5" spacers
5. about 2" clearance between the tire and upper a-arm.
be prepare to cut metal in the inner fender. kinda like -->
it doesnt rub on the frame on full turn BUT it barely rubs on the body mounts brackets on a little less full turn. it sucks. i gotta move the body mount brackets back 1".
Last edited by 4rx; Feb 11, 2009 at 06:34 PM.
Feb 12, 2009 | 04:00 AM
#29
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From: Stevensville, MI
That wheel is almost exactly the same as the Mickey Thompson Classic II Street Lock version. All you would have to do is powdercoat them like Vermejo did. And then you dont have to deal with the hassle of wheel spacers. Some get vibrations from them, others dont. Most likely due to incorrect installs.
Also, consider the fact the MT II has a negative 22mm offset as well. What is the offset of this wheel pictured?
Also, consider the fact the MT II has a negative 22mm offset as well. What is the offset of this wheel pictured?
Classic II has 3.625" backspacing, but no simulated beadlock ring.
Classic Lock has the ring, but too large of backspacing at 4".
Since I want a beadlock look, neither will work for me.
The Eagle Alloy rims have an offset of +6mm.
Feb 12, 2009 | 07:22 AM
#30
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Joined: Nov 2005
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From: SouthWest Littleton, Colorado
The up side to buying wheels that you "know" that you will need spacers is that you can buy your wheel/tire combo. Then try them without the spacers and see if you need spacers and how much. Then buy what you need. The further out the more the tire will rub on the wheelwell, the further in the more it will rub on the frame on turns.
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