so they give you about 3" of lift in the rear? also would i have to purchase new shocks? im riding all stock right now. and if i can id like to keep it that way just because im not going to be doing any heavy off roading. but if all i have to get is the springs AMEN ill get them. also would i take my REVTEK spacers out of the back when i install these new springs? the resan i will not be doing alot of off roading is i only have a 2wd.. i still do alittle tho....if i have to get the new backshocks then i guess i must. but if it calls for replacing all the shocks all the way around id rather leave it. im not trying to make it super badass in performance (would if it was 4wd) but im trying to even my runner out.

Thanx for all the great feed back guys

 

I agree with cubuff4runner I did the same since the rear still seem to sagg some, as far as removing the rear spacers, Yes you will remove the factory spring and new spacer you just put in and install the new OME springs. Oh I also re-installed the inner cone into the OME which maybe added a 1/4" - 1/2" more lift. I would consider removing the top plate if you were 4WD and hav front CVS but since ur 2wd I say forget it, just get new sprints in the rear you will be happy you did. It levels it out real well to almost give it more lift in the rear.
As for shocks you can leave the factory ones they will be fine, though I think you would find that it rides better with new ones
Look here is with lift and new wheels and standard springs in rear with spacer:
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...70140164fhdfMe

Here is after I installed the OME Springs to level me out:
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...96002346vDhvYd

 

I've swapped front struts/springs/spacers out more times than I care to remember.

Anyways...I do it much like Yoda-g2 to get it done by myself as I usually always have NO help.

Disconnect the sway bar....mine's removed
Remove the 4 (not "three" like Yoda-g2 typed!!! If you only have 3, go get some more at the Stealer!)
Use pry bar on lower control arm. Put it under the front crossmember and over the control arm. I lean on mine with it in my arm pit area to pish it down (make sure the rig is secure on it's stands or lift!) an free up both my hands. One for shoving the bottom of the shock in the brackets, and one for shovin' the bolt through. Viola!!

To get the bottom control arm back up and aligned with the ball joint flange, just use a jack. Jack it up till they meet and instll the 4! bolts. If you seperate the ball joint while the strut is still in there (to get it out easier..hint hint,,,top out spacer removal) support the control arm with the jack, remove bolts, and slowly lower the control arm. Theis will keep it from snapping down with the force of the compressed spring (wich is alot of force but doesn't move much).

As for your squeaking, no personal experience there but if it's the bushings that hold the shock stem in the spacer like Yoda-g2 mantioned, roughin it up with rough grit sandpaper before installing helps the squeaking quite a bit. . That is, untill the roughness wears smooth again.

Good luck and Happy Moddin'

 

They are not that difficult to operate. You might need to use a mallot or hammer to tap the hook(s) into your springs to get them set initially. It does help to have a friend hold the spring on the ground (with 2 hands) while you ratchet them down. Do a little on one side, flip it over, do a little on the other, repeat. May take 20 minutes or something and it's a bit of a workout but it's not rocket science. I would imagine it would be challenging to do by yourself.

 

You are joking, right? Alignments cost $30-60. I paid $40 at Les Schwab.

 

ok i will probly purchase the OME back springs then. the only thing is is that we could BARELY get the springs out stock.. we jacked up the back diff, put jackstands under my hitch and lowered the back diff as far as it would go.. i could BARELY get the coils out and barely get the coils back in with the spacer in them. i heard something about taking out the shocks and it helps. i mean is there anyways to drop the back far enough so u can just basicly slide the coils in and out? cuz i mean we had to do soem seriouse work to get them in and out.. like prying 50,000 times and using a rope so we could get one side compressed more and stuff... just alot of work. i no theres got to be a easier way.

 

If you are not going to be doing any hard 4 wheeling and will not be towing anything heavy get the OME 890's they are softer than the 891's. As far as installing. Unhook your sway bar, shocks, panhard from one end, and the small bolts that hook the brake line onto the axel. Jack your car up high and put jack stands on the frame. Then put a jack under the axle and slowly lower it. You will get more than enough room to just pull the old ones out and put the new ones in. Also as WT said make sure you have the cone spacers if you want a little extra height. The stock shocks will work.

 

isnt the cone spacer the bump stop type thing? like if the shock goes down to far it hits that??alright i found the 891's for 135 for 2 on wheelers-offroad site where i purchased my revtek stuff from. i will be doing a little off roading so i guess ill go with the 891's. plus i might be towing something.. maybe a boat to fish somewhere...

im just wondering if im gonna be able to get the frame to drop the diff out that far without hitting the ground.

 

The cone spacer is a bump stop that goes down the center of your spring and sets on top of the spring, this is why you get a little extra lift. There was a recall on the rear suspension of the 4runners so if you call your dealer you should be able to go in there and pic up the cone spacers for free. Also I would do a little searching on the forum to decide exactly which OME spring you want. 891's can be very stiff with no load in the back, I went with them because I have my cargo box, hi-lift jack, tools, sub, and a 33" tire all on the back add that to all of my camping gear when I hit the mountains. With everything out of it it is a little bouncy. Probably a little too much bounce for a fairly empty street cruiser.

 

That sure explains that weird vibration.........






I'll look into your sand paper idea, but I hope that it isn't a bushing that requires taking the whole thing apart, I hope you can just pop it out the top.


Thanks again for the correction

 

lift looks good! ... how much lift is on the white 4runner?

 

I sure hope we're talkin' bout the same flange. The bottom ball joint flange? I've ran around with just 3 in each flange for about 6 months. Shouldn't cause any vibration unless they work loose, wich they've been known to do at times. That's why I have a few extras, well, that and always swappin' mine or someone elses struts out.

If it's just the top bushing in the spacer assy., you should be able to remove it while the truck sits. The weight of the truck will keep everyting together whilst you undo just the strut rods bushings.

 

I was giving you the 'ol because I thought you were just poking some fun at my typo. In my head I thought there was only three, but I realized you're right. That's why I was joking about the vibration due to missing parts, just being sarcastic. You're were just taking me too literally , easy to do when you're typing, and not talking face to face.

As far as the bushing, that's kind of what I was thinking, hope your right, I'll have to take a look at it when I have a chance.

Glad we got that straightened out.

 

hey stive-
what size tires are those in the pics?
Å

 

33 by 12.50's

 

ok then...i've realized that my 31" 's are gonna look lame with a lift.

note to self: cancel lift plans till tires wear out or bank robbery plan goes thru!

Å

 

haha i just hope my 33's dont look to small with the 3" body im about to put on top of the 3" revtek. i will probly have to get new back coils.. no prob there not to much $$$.. only like 135 for a back set.