Finially got all of it on. Took a while because a couple of things got in are way. I have been noticing some squeeks from the front end.. any ideas what this might be and how I can solve this? Also the top end is a little higher then the back so i might take out the top-out spacer's in the near future. its really tough to get the shock back in place... any advice on how to make this part easier? we had to pry down the a-arm if thats what u call it to get the thing in.. someone also had to step on the top of it. im also going with a RB 3" bodylift so hopefully no hoses or wires or anything will stretch and break.
anyways heres the link where you can veiw the revtek before and after shot

http://photos.yahoo.com/slickstu26

I would greatly appreciate all advice if anyone has any...

 

Looks good. I wish I could offer more advice, but I do know that prying down the A-arm is the way most people do it. I've had some luck with a screwdriver in the lower bolt eye and then lifting the shock into position. Still, not easy. Good luck with the body lift, I think it is supposed to be easier.

 

take the factory bottle ajck and pput it upside down in the wheel well, use it to push down on the upper control arm.

 

I just put the same lift on my rig about 3 weeks ago. We discovered that disconnecting the sway bars AND removing the three bolts the hold the lower ball joint on made pulling down the a-arms MUCH easier. They popped right in. If you look straight up from under the hub assembly you'll see them. Plus you don't risk tearing the ball joint boot. Good thinking Toyota!! This is the only way to do it IMHO.

I have the exact same squeak problem, its seems to be caused by the rubber bushing at the top of the shock housing. Its the one the top, that the shock actually goes through. I was going to try greasing it or something, but you may have to take it apart to do that, which I really don't want to do again. I'd like to hear maybe some other solutions before I do that.

If we dont' get some feedback here, we should start a new post asking about it.

 

I actually did the same lift almost 2 years ago but I have not experienced any squeeking up front since. As for the rear looking lower I had that problem too think its due to the rear spacers only being 2 1/2" not true 3" I ended up replacing them with OME springs not a few months in since it just looked weird with the rear lower and when I loading things up or towed it look really lower. I will second removing the swaybar bolts so that you can compress the lower A Arm to help get the shock in place, I kinda eye balled it and got it in position so the lower shock would line up and so would the top plate bolts(3), what I did was just use a crow bar on the lower A Arm and the limiting bushing if that makes sense, made it rather simple. I would say you may have some type of debris like a rock or small things caught under the top plate but thats a quess

Good luck finding the squeek... oh are u sure its the spring and not the gravel guard rubbing in the rear since the angle for that changed after installing the Diff drops.

PS. Just thought of something else keep a eye on them CV boots I just tore my second one last week. Oh and it does look better lifted

 

did anyone have to get there tires re-alighed... mine dont see much off... doesnt go to eaither side or whatever...???

 

Well I also added new tires since I went 285's after lifting a week latter so I say its safer to get the alighnment done unless you plan on upgrading tires soon then wait till then. You just changed the front end geometry by lifting it and pushing the A-arms down lower with the taller spring pack now.

 

you will definately have to get an alignment, and make sure you take it to a good shop because it will be hard to align. The outside 2" of your tire will start to wear about 5x faster if you don't get an alignment.

 

well i have my tires just waiting on my rims my buddy is gonna sell them to me.. if i go ahead and align it with my stock tires i dont have to align them again once i get my new tires right???

 

also i might take out my topout spacer to even my runner out.. if i take this off will i have to get it aligned again???!?!?!

 

Disconnecting the sway bars made the job easier on my Tacoma. You'll need an alignment since your camber will be off.

 

Align it once you know where it is going to be at. removing the top out spacer will change the alignment.

 

@#$%@#!@#$!@#$!#$ I HATE COIL COMPRESSERS!!!!AHHH! guess ill be working on my front end soon. I might just leave it how it is... its not TOOO bad... i guess. but i also heard to get that aligned is like up to 200$

 

Couldn't agree with you more, it took us 5 hours to do in a shop....with a lift. We had a crappy compressor and it took 4.5 hours to swap the springs and install. The rear spacer took us just over 20 min total, we just dropped the whole rear end as far as the brake lines would allow with a tranny lift.

Where do you live, Les Schwab aligned mine for $40 bucks.

 

I get the honour of discovering what you mean by that next time it's warm outside. Still snowy and cold here, so my new OME springs are sitting in a closet waiting for me.

I still don't get how coil spring compressors work. Anyone care to enlighten me?
Haven't had an up-close look of one yet, are they a huge PITA?

 

You don't need to compress your coils to remove the top out spacers, if that is what you are talking about.

 

Coil compressors are basically two hooks which are connected by a large bolt. You hook one hook at the bottom of the coil and the other on the top. You put one compressor on each side of the coil. You then tighten each bolt until the spring is compressed to where you want it. (Impact wrenches make the job a lot quicker)

 

OME coil and spring compressor:

 

does anyone have a opinion on if i should take out the topout spacer? I really dont know if i should just keep it in...if u can look at the pics and see if i should or you think it will look fine. keep in mind im going to order the 3" body lift from Rodger brown HOPEFULLY by tommarrow if my lazy dad will use his credit card. and i already have 33 12.50's M/T (procomp) and used rims comming soon (Xtreme alloys) so im not sure if its even nessasary to take the topout spacers off..

 

I would go with OME 890's or 891's in the rear. The stock rear springs suck. Put a little weight in the back and it sags and bottoms out. The OME's cost $100-$130 and are well worth it. The springs will also level you out perfectly without removing the top out spacer.