How to: Replace steering rack guide- Pictures
#41
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The change was immediately noticeable as I backed out of my driveway this morning. The small 'clunk' I've been hearing/feeling is flat-out gone, and the steering has a solid feel to it that's been missing for years. In fact, I've been envious of the steering 'feel' that my buddy's '98 has (with half the mileage).
I opted not to remove the retainer for inspection/replacement, since I installed a brand new Toyota rack (hub to hub) in April 2007, at 123,800 miles (now at 233,xxx).
Lastly, I applied some yellow marking paint to make sure the retainer & lock ring stay in their current position.
What a super-easy remedy to an issue that's been bugging me for nearly a year.
Andreas
#42
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Bumping this for clarification, if I have the old style setup, and want to try simply tightening it up a big, I shouldn't need any tools other than the socket that fits over the old style cap, correct? And I can just snug it up a bit, and call it a day, no need to dissassemble at all?
#43
Bumping this for clarification, if I have the old style setup, and want to try simply tightening it up a big, I shouldn't need any tools other than the socket that fits over the old style cap, correct? And I can just snug it up a bit, and call it a day, no need to dissassemble at all?
#45
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Okay, I finally got all the required parts to do this repair, but I'm unclear as to how far should I screw in the new "ring/nut" to the new cap? Anybody care to explain this? Thanks!!
#46
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Okay I just answered my own question, I was under the impression that the "ring/nut" went inside the opening right up against the new guide. But after taking a closer look at the pictures I realized that the "ring/nut" is what keeps the new cap from coming off.
#47
Great write up and an easy fix. At first I snugged up the old roller guide and it helped but not what i expected. then I considered buying the new guide. I bought the parts from Toyota of Dallas and the install took just a few minutes. Essentially you torque it to 18 ft lbs to bottom it out on the rack and back it off 19 degrees to give the spring some room to work. The difference is dramatic. The driveway clunk is gone and it feels so much more solid. I used Teflon thread sealant paste on the lock ring to prevent any water from getting in the rack. I never would have learned about this without YT. Thanks for the write up.
Between this, new LBJ and OTRE, the steering feels like new again.
This may help some people better understand how to set the tension. The red arrow is the starting point where you torque it to 18 ft lbs. The yellow arrow is 19 degrees looser. The black paint is just a quick reference to make sure nothing moves over time.
The manual calls for moly grease at the black arrows.
Between this, new LBJ and OTRE, the steering feels like new again.
This may help some people better understand how to set the tension. The red arrow is the starting point where you torque it to 18 ft lbs. The yellow arrow is 19 degrees looser. The black paint is just a quick reference to make sure nothing moves over time.
The manual calls for moly grease at the black arrows.
Last edited by DRCOFFEE; 03-18-2012 at 03:19 PM.
#48
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Just did this upgrade on a 1995 Tacoma 4x4 Xtracab, and it worked great. Part numbers were accurate, job was a snap. I would make the final tension adjustments with the car jacked up by the frame, that way, there is no pressure on the rack arm. Thanks for the tip, saved me from buying/installing a new rack!
#49
That bar that on my truck, is right in the way of trying to fit the hex driver inside to get that guide off. How do I move it out of the way. It's not a torsion bar is it? I have an '04 Tacoma with the Trd offroad package, Is it maybe a steering stabilizer? At any rate. It is right in front of that bolt that needs to come out and I cannot get a socket wrench in there
Last edited by Timdj112; 04-06-2013 at 06:54 AM.
#51
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I did the replacement today in less time than it took me to read this whole thread. I didn't have a torque wrench to achieve 18in/lbs so I just left two threads out and tightened down the guide. So far the steering feels tighter around town and no more clunk. I'll see if the highway wandering is fixed tomorrow when I go down I-95
#52
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I did the replacement today in less time than it took me to read this whole thread. I didn't have a torque wrench to achieve 18in/lbs so I just left two threads out and tightened down the guide. So far the steering feels tighter around town and no more clunk. I'll see if the highway wandering is fixed tomorrow when I go down I-95
#53
Great write up and an easy fix. At first I snugged up the old roller guide and it helped but not what i expected. then I considered buying the new guide. I bought the parts from Toyota of Dallas and the install took just a few minutes. Essentially you torque it to 18 ft lbs to bottom it out on the rack and back it off 19 degrees to give the spring some room to work. The difference is dramatic. The driveway clunk is gone and it feels so much more solid. I used Teflon thread sealant paste on the lock ring to prevent any water from getting in the rack. I never would have learned about this without YT. Thanks for the write up.
#54
You sure its not other parts popping? Go underneath and have a helper turn the steering wheel. I would worry about lower ball joints. They are known to fail and separate causing all sorts of damage. The popping sound may be the last warning you get before they break.
#57
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