Even easier, I decided to simply adjust the center retainer a bit last night. I loosened the lock ring, inserted the Home-Depot-sourced rod coupler, and snugged the retainer 10 - 12°. Then I carefully tightened the lock ring, making sure the retainer stayed in position. I did this with the truck sitting in the garage, and spent less than 3 minutes under there.

The change was immediately noticeable as I backed out of my driveway this morning. The small 'clunk' I've been hearing/feeling is flat-out gone, and the steering has a solid feel to it that's been missing for years. In fact, I've been envious of the steering 'feel' that my buddy's '98 has (with half the mileage).

I opted not to remove the retainer for inspection/replacement, since I installed a brand new Toyota rack (hub to hub) in April 2007, at 123,800 miles (now at 233,xxx).

Lastly, I applied some yellow marking paint to make sure the retainer & lock ring stay in their current position.

What a super-easy remedy to an issue that's been bugging me for nearly a year.


Andreas

 

Bumping this for clarification, if I have the old style setup, and want to try simply tightening it up a big, I shouldn't need any tools other than the socket that fits over the old style cap, correct? And I can just snug it up a bit, and call it a day, no need to dissassemble at all?

 

You will also need a pair of large channel lock pliers or a giant wrench/socket to loosen the nut around the "cap" first. The cap sets the adjustment, the giant nut locks it in place. If you do remove the cap etc. it's no big deal to reassemble. I'd take the parts out just to inspect/clean/re-lube, then reassemble, adjust, and lock in place. It'll help to have someone with good "feel" at the steering wheel while you feel the rack end slop you are adjusting (grab the boot, you'll feel it).

 

Much appreciated! I'll take a look at it tonight.

 

Okay, I finally got all the required parts to do this repair, but I'm unclear as to how far should I screw in the new "ring/nut" to the new cap? Anybody care to explain this? Thanks!!

 

Okay I just answered my own question, I was under the impression that the "ring/nut" went inside the opening right up against the new guide. But after taking a closer look at the pictures I realized that the "ring/nut" is what keeps the new cap from coming off.

 

Great write up and an easy fix. At first I snugged up the old roller guide and it helped but not what i expected. then I considered buying the new guide. I bought the parts from Toyota of Dallas and the install took just a few minutes. Essentially you torque it to 18 ft lbs to bottom it out on the rack and back it off 19 degrees to give the spring some room to work. The difference is dramatic. The driveway clunk is gone and it feels so much more solid. I used Teflon thread sealant paste on the lock ring to prevent any water from getting in the rack. I never would have learned about this without YT. Thanks for the write up.

Between this, new LBJ and OTRE, the steering feels like new again.

This may help some people better understand how to set the tension. The red arrow is the starting point where you torque it to 18 ft lbs. The yellow arrow is 19 degrees looser. The black paint is just a quick reference to make sure nothing moves over time.


The manual calls for moly grease at the black arrows.

 

Just did this upgrade on a 1995 Tacoma 4x4 Xtracab, and it worked great. Part numbers were accurate, job was a snap. I would make the final tension adjustments with the car jacked up by the frame, that way, there is no pressure on the rack arm. Thanks for the tip, saved me from buying/installing a new rack!

 

That bar that on my truck, is right in the way of trying to fit the hex driver inside to get that guide off. How do I move it out of the way. It's not a torsion bar is it? I have an '04 Tacoma with the Trd offroad package, Is it maybe a steering stabilizer? At any rate. It is right in front of that bolt that needs to come out and I cannot get a socket wrench in there

 

jack the 4runner up it will allow access

 

I did the replacement today in less time than it took me to read this whole thread. I didn't have a torque wrench to achieve 18in/lbs so I just left two threads out and tightened down the guide. So far the steering feels tighter around town and no more clunk. I'll see if the highway wandering is fixed tomorrow when I go down I-95

 

I just did this yesterday and as well didn't have the proper torque wrench. I was trying to get it tight then back off quarter turn, but then my lock nut would be loose, so I did what @mynameistommy510 did and left a few threads then tightened it. Feels good, didn't see this last page about where to put the grease though, I have some on the spring but not the other areas, think it's worth taking back out to put some grease on the other areas?

 

Did you, or has anyone out there, had success buying a new rack guide after trying to just tighten their own? I have a 2002 so its the new style guide. Inspected it and reinstalled it and I had to tighten it about 20 degrees further than it originally was. Got it to spec with a torque wrench but I still get popping sounds and play coming from my rack when turning. Think I should try buying a new guide? Or am I gonna have to replace the rack?

 

You sure its not other parts popping? Go underneath and have a helper turn the steering wheel. I would worry about lower ball joints. They are known to fail and separate causing all sorts of damage. The popping sound may be the last warning you get before they break.

 

What make and model did you do this on?

 

Anyone else have an impossible time getting the original guide bolt off? Ive PB’d overnight and am hitting with an impact… wont budge…

thoughts?

 

have you broken the lock nut collar free?

 

I just tried to get my old style cap off with an adjustable wrench, PB'd and torched the rack too and it wouldn't budge. Did you end up having any luck, and if so, how?