Justin's Fly

My 2000 4runner (174k) is sluggish or really has no power when pushing the petal to the floor. Basically pulling hills or mainly passing. I changed the fuel filter just because it was time, but that did not help the issue. Check engine light came on for the first time in its life about 8 months ago.......sensor came up so I cleaned it. I have cleaned the sensor with the sauce a couple times recently..........but that was 6 months before this issue. I have a K&N air filter, cleaned every 5k. Spark plugs were replaced about 40k ago (could use new ones I guess).

My thoughts are fuel injectors or fuel pump? I have heard maybe catalytic converter. Not sure, but have a premium elk tag and need to hunt a lot......aka need to drive the 4runner!


Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks

Justin

fierohink

Justin's Fly

Thanks for the reply.

I can't remember the code number right now. It had to do with the MAF sensor it seemed like. I have the fancy MAF sensor cleaner that seemed to work for a few months (I have cleaned that twice, but could try that again). I just followed directions of spraying it and letting it sit. Never soaked it before. I drive around on some pretty dusty roads probably 20-30% of the time and maybe more during some periods of playing in the dirt.............Our work trucks always have the engine light on for that sensor out here in the desert so I have quit replacing them. Replaced one and within 3 months it was back to engine light again. I will have to go in and check the error code again.

Do you just replace the O2 sensor or can it be cleaned? I have had the vehicle since 45k, so I am sure it hasn't been changed. I did have new timing belts changed 3 years ago. Last night I monkeyed with the throttle control..........just tightened the cable up a bit. It makes you accelerate quicker without having to push the pedal down further, but didn't fix the sluggish problem.

What do you mean by tune up maintenance? Take it to a mechanic I would guess? New dual electrode plugs and wires for the spark plugs? I bought some fancy cords for the spark plugs the last time that I replaced the plugs 42k ago........Not exactly sure what they were, but they were expensive! I'll check the fuel mileage this weekend. I typically get around 17 town and 22 on the highway. I use 4wheel drive so much each week that I haven't checked it for quite some time.

I guess I should also say that when I push the pedal down to the floor or accelerate rapidly it remains a constant speed then jumps forward real quick for a split second then back to constant/ barely increasing speed. If I let the car slowly accelerate it usually doesn't have much problem it is when I crank on the pedal. Kinda acts like it is not getting enough gas, but I understand a bad spark might cause that as well. That is why I thought maybe injectors (not sure if I could easily clean them) or hopefully not the dreaded fuel pump (especially if it goes out in the sticks).

Thanks, you tube is very helpful although it starts to get mind boggling as far as what ifs.

75w90mantraN

K&N air filter and cleaning MAF every 6 months...I'm skeptical. I used to live in the Mojave and didnt have to clean my MAF using stock paper coffee filter. Yearly I would and not only would I spray, I would take a small pick tool and CAREFULLY take off the baked on dirt over the sprayed sensor.

Cant clean an O2 sensor. Those you'd replace like every 80k if not longer, but before they let unburned hydrocarbons damage your catalytic converter. Really expensive...the latter, compared to the former. And by O2 sensor, mean also the air/fuel sensor before the cat. So usually 2 sensors.

Those, along with plugs, wires, and stuff you've already done, are part of routine tune up. The CEL is just reminding, in this case.

If the problem persists after tune up (hopefully the light comes back to help), then check ignition coilpacks for spark with a spark tester. Those arent routine tune up items but are common suspects. Usually associated with misfire codes.

Fuel pump...I'd suspect only if you have issues starting/stalling.

Injectors...that's also something to investigate. Again, not a routine tuneup, but common failure. Could be dirty, clogged, or poor electrical connection. Since they've never been touched, I doubt leaks. Lazy way to clean is dumping some fuel injector cleaner. Professional route obviously will cost more.

Fuel filter not leaking by the lines?
Dirty throttle plate?
Checked previous suggestions?

Get the code(s) read, when light returns.

Justin's Fly

Thanks,
Mileage the other day was around 20 mpg on the highway, which might be a little low from 5 years ago.

Should I buy an OEM sensors or do after market type of Oxygen and the air/fuel sensors work? Just thinking about running down to NAPA so I make sure I buy the right one for my vehicle. If I go through Toyota it gets even more expensive of course, but want to make sure both OEM and after market are relatively the same.

I will probably buy some of the fuel injector cleaner for the heck of it.

fuel filter is not leaking
I will check the throttle plate.............dirty? Do I remove, clean then put it back together.......or is this something I can just observe?

The check engine light has been on for the past 6 months (It only turned off for 1 month after I cleaned the sensor). I will be rotating the tires this next week and will have them check the codes again.

75w90mantraN

OEM if at all possible. I know the Denso brand can be sold aftermarket. I got spare ones if you have a manual trans NON-Cali emissions cat (Federal standards). Assuming 3.4L. Priced down of course. Some pretty good ones online otherwise. I stay away from dealership unless not sold anywhere else.

For throttle plate, you'd have to remove rubber air intake into throttle body. Can flip the plate inside and clean that way and save a gasket. Or remove throttle body from plenum assembly and clean from the other side, but replace the gasket. May get lucky if you want to reuse it.

Wonder what your case ends up being.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Just what are you comparing it with??

Different tires ??

Has it gained weight . The amount of goodies seems to add up fast in my case .

I am guessing automatic Transmission ?? When was that last serviced ??

Justin's Fly

It is a manual transmission 3.4 L. I haven't added any weight to the truck as far as racks etc. Tires are about half wore out..............I tend to get better gas mileage as they get smaller! Tires are slightly oversize.

I will look for OEM first. Suggestions on websites, auto parts stores? Being in Lakeview I only have NAPA. I would like to replace both of those sensors soon.

75w90mantraN

A quick check of Olathe Toyota parts still puts the a/f sensor at $196 and the rear sensor at $138. Still roughly what I got mine for. Maybe ebay or amazon to price check. Or the Denso website itself. I saw links to distributors one time. Be aware...denso is no longer all made from Japan.

Maybe someone can chime in on their experience with non-original sensors.

Wyoming, its definitely plausible...with relatively good gas mileage, uphill climbs and fast passes arent really a 4runners best attributes. Can be simple as weight and less tread.

But if a light comes on...well then.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Sometimes the cycle of the converter test takes forever always seems the last one to cycle on my 3.4 vehicles

Justin's Fly

Turns out the code is P0171. System too lean

75w90mantraN

I'd re-clean that MAF. Heard folks replace it without checking first if its truly not registering g/s of air. That or intake air leak somewhere. Check vacuum/air hoses, pcv, wherever umetered air could be leaking in. Or...clogged injectors...still a possibility.

Got a bit of tuning up huh. O2 sensors, plugs, wires, parts parts parts. Dont worry. Fixable.

Justin's Fly

Oh don't worry it took me 3 years to find this 4runner back in 2008. I'm will find it. Just fixed a cracked air hose. Going to take it for a run.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I am sure the lean condition is not helping .

At what rpm are we talking about Here??

I just did a roadtest with my 92 4Runner 5 speed

in 5th gear under 2000 rpm it is dead get the rpm above 2000 it has more then enough then we have no mountains here

Justin's Fly

RPM's don't really have much to do with it. The sluggish/no acceleration will happen in every gear. If you slowly/average accelerate it doesn't happen most often, but if you push the pedal down like your excited or need to pass it kinda of jumps like it wants to accelerate but it doesn't go like it did three months ago. If you slowly ease it up to 65 it does it with no problem, just when it gets pushed hard. Honestly I have never pushed my vehicles to the floor because I do not like to drive them like that. So this happens when I am accelerating. Sure when I am driving at 65 and push the throttle down in 5th gear it tends to not have power.............that is what 4th is for.....

Going to clean the MAF today and next week I will put in the rear sensors (o2 and air/fuel) just because it is due. After that I may take it down to a guy to look at it that I have heard is a pretty good discipherer.

Justin's Fly

Oh crap, hope the pictures come out. I cleaned the MAF sensor today and "fixed" another cracked hose. When I noticed a clicking sound in this unit. I cut part of the air hose off of this thing (3/8")
The second picture is the picture of the engine and where this part is. On the drivers side, closer to the driver than the front. The first picture is a close up of the thing. It didn't sound like it was working.....may have found the problem? I will try to figure out what that "air solenoid" is. Ha my guess.

Justin's Fly

looks like it is called. VSV for EVAP.

75w90mantraN

Ventilation shut off valve if I got that correct. [Actually vacuum switching valve] There's a solenoid that would cycle it as part of a self-test during startup. After the engine is shut off, the valve should close and that might be the click sound you hear. Normal op.

As far as the lean code, it should be any of those hoses connected to the air intake. In my experience, that code was a dirty MAF. EVAP hoses, while they do have vacuum connections, would give out P04XX codes.

Good shots. Mine is broken at the solenoid's rubber mounting...ziptied for now.

75w90mantraN

Worth noting and ruling out as well.

Justin's Fly

While it was running the VSV for EVAP was making a chekit chekit chekit chekit ( a tad like a sprinkler) Holding onto it........it was clicking twitching shaking quite a bit making a lot of noise.

Cleaned the MAF yesterday, will take a drive today. Also added injector cleaner the other day. I'll look more into the air intake area today.

I did forget about loss of power a few months ago when I ran the cool air. As usual when using AC I lose power......especially on hills. But just running air I typically have never lost power. And the air is not cold, just cool compared to the outside air (I thought maybe the button didn't light up or it was stuck on AC....but it is not that cold). Just fyi.

I'm not too fancy no floor mats. Out of adjustment throttle cable maybe or whatever the kickdown cable is.

Thanks guys