How To Drop Transmission Pan And Flush ATF - New Write-Up For Review
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
How To Drop Transmission Pan And Flush ATF - New Write-Up For Review
With the help of many YotaTech'ers I was able to drop my transmission pan and flush my transmission.
So I never forget how to do it, I created a write-up documenting the process. This was my first time performing the drop and flush, so I may have missed something. Please review the write-up and provide feedback on what's good, what's bad, and what I may have missed.
http://www.skjos.net/toyota/trans/tranny.html
So I never forget how to do it, I created a write-up documenting the process. This was my first time performing the drop and flush, so I may have missed something. Please review the write-up and provide feedback on what's good, what's bad, and what I may have missed.
http://www.skjos.net/toyota/trans/tranny.html
Last edited by skjos; 04-08-2015 at 08:12 PM. Reason: new web server
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Added removing of dipstick option to step 25, modified step 30 to account for option, and added step 35.5 for reinstallation of dipstick tube.
Thanks for the feedback.
Thanks for the feedback.
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 1,756
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
6 Posts
Great job on the writeup skjos! I have a few comments to add:
Step 4: Although removing the sway bar brackets isn't too hard (if you don't live in the rust belt), it is much easier to remove the nuts that hold the ends of the sway bar to the sway bar endlinks. That lets you pivot the back part of the sway bar down out of the way, and gives you plenty of room to remove/re-install the pan.
Step 14: The caption under the picture of the pan is wrong. I think you added "sway bar brackets" at the end by mistake.
Step 20: Maybe make your notes about fluid being left in the filter here a bit more descriptive by saying that the fluid left in the filter will dump out through the filter inlet hole as soon as the filter bolts are loosened... (or as soon as they are loosened enough to break the seal at the filter gaskets). When I first did this job a few years ago, I had a close call with ATF almost getting in my eyes when I got to this point. (Safety glasses and quick reflexes saved me some grief that day).
Step 21: The normal fluid flow direction through the filter is upwards. The filter is there to catch any crap from the fluid as it's being drawn upwards from the pan. I first spray in from the top holes to let the worst of the crap drain out of the filter inlet hole (the one that faces downward). Once that's running clear, I flip the filter over and spray into the inlet hole.
Step 24: Maybe add a note to make sure all the filter gaskets are in place on the filter before the filter is installed.
Step 27: I always torque the pan in two stages. First at 40 in-lb or so, then at 65 in-lb. Is it necessary? Probably not, if you applied enough sealant, but it is good practice when torquing a joint to ensure that the joint stays parallel. If this is done, you should "preset" the torque wrench to 40 in-lb before you install the pan.
Step 29: Just a spelling error. It's called "The Right Stuff" by Permatex.
Step 32: If you're torquing in two stages, mention that here. 40 in-lb first pass and 65 in-lb second pass.
Step 33: The same spelling error. It's called "The Right Stuff" by Permatex. If using this stuff, you don't have to let it cure. You can refill and flush the tranny right away. I've done 4 flushes so far (A340F 3 times, and A340H once) and I've always re-filled and flushed right after putting the pan on with The Right Stuff. I've never had a leak, and the sealant has never been "washed away" on the inside part of the tranny pan by the fluid. Permatex specifies that equipment sealed with this can be put in service 1 minute after the joints are assembled. See product sheet here.
Step 4: Although removing the sway bar brackets isn't too hard (if you don't live in the rust belt), it is much easier to remove the nuts that hold the ends of the sway bar to the sway bar endlinks. That lets you pivot the back part of the sway bar down out of the way, and gives you plenty of room to remove/re-install the pan.
Step 14: The caption under the picture of the pan is wrong. I think you added "sway bar brackets" at the end by mistake.
Step 20: Maybe make your notes about fluid being left in the filter here a bit more descriptive by saying that the fluid left in the filter will dump out through the filter inlet hole as soon as the filter bolts are loosened... (or as soon as they are loosened enough to break the seal at the filter gaskets). When I first did this job a few years ago, I had a close call with ATF almost getting in my eyes when I got to this point. (Safety glasses and quick reflexes saved me some grief that day).
Step 21: The normal fluid flow direction through the filter is upwards. The filter is there to catch any crap from the fluid as it's being drawn upwards from the pan. I first spray in from the top holes to let the worst of the crap drain out of the filter inlet hole (the one that faces downward). Once that's running clear, I flip the filter over and spray into the inlet hole.
Step 24: Maybe add a note to make sure all the filter gaskets are in place on the filter before the filter is installed.
Step 27: I always torque the pan in two stages. First at 40 in-lb or so, then at 65 in-lb. Is it necessary? Probably not, if you applied enough sealant, but it is good practice when torquing a joint to ensure that the joint stays parallel. If this is done, you should "preset" the torque wrench to 40 in-lb before you install the pan.
Step 29: Just a spelling error. It's called "The Right Stuff" by Permatex.
Step 32: If you're torquing in two stages, mention that here. 40 in-lb first pass and 65 in-lb second pass.
Step 33: The same spelling error. It's called "The Right Stuff" by Permatex. If using this stuff, you don't have to let it cure. You can refill and flush the tranny right away. I've done 4 flushes so far (A340F 3 times, and A340H once) and I've always re-filled and flushed right after putting the pan on with The Right Stuff. I've never had a leak, and the sealant has never been "washed away" on the inside part of the tranny pan by the fluid. Permatex specifies that equipment sealed with this can be put in service 1 minute after the joints are assembled. See product sheet here.
Last edited by GSGALLANT; 02-10-2009 at 03:38 AM.
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 208
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Excellent writeup! A couple of suggestions:
Cleaning and marking the torque sequence of the pan would be easier after it is removed.
I would remove the dipstick tube before the pan removal process. It is easier to pull and twist on the tube than it is to twist and pull down on the pan. Same goes for reinstall.
Cleaning and marking the torque sequence of the pan would be easier after it is removed.
I would remove the dipstick tube before the pan removal process. It is easier to pull and twist on the tube than it is to twist and pull down on the pan. Same goes for reinstall.
Trending Topics
#10
Contributing Member
Step 21: The normal fluid flow direction through the filter is upwards. The filter is there to catch any crap from the fluid as it's being drawn upwards from the pan. I first spray in from the top holes to let the worst of the crap drain out of the filter inlet hole (the one that faces downward). Once that's running clear, I flip the filter over and spray into the inlet hole.
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
I've incorporated the comments I've received so far; I did leave the marking of the pan where it was, because it helped me to keep the bolts in order when I removed them. I know the bolts are all the same, but I like to put the same bolt back in the same hole.
The solenoid stuff is a little beyond the intent of my write-up, but good information to have.
Thanks
The solenoid stuff is a little beyond the intent of my write-up, but good information to have.
Thanks
Last edited by skjos; 02-10-2009 at 05:06 PM.
#19
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 1,756
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
6 Posts
I've incorporated the comments I've received so far; I did leave the marking of the pan where it was, because it helped me to keep the bolts in order when I removed them. I know the bolts are all the same, but I like to put the same bolt back in the same hole.
The solenoid stuff is a little beyond the intent of my write-up, but good information to have.
Thanks
The solenoid stuff is a little beyond the intent of my write-up, but good information to have.
Thanks