I'm looking into buying a 1st gen 4runner and have some ?'s.

What is the mpg diff between the 4 & 6 cylinder?

How reliable is the manual tranny over the auto?

Engine reliability diff between the 4 & 6 cylinder?

How easy is the removable top to take on & off?


Also anything else helpful that I should know about would be great!

Thanks in advance!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I'll try to answer a few ?'s.I have an 87' 4cyl 5spd 4x4.I'm in eastern NC so I'm not affected to much by the lack of power of the 4cyl 22re.I think the early 6 cyl 3.0 had some head gasket problems, but if the previous owner(s) took care of it,it should be OK.The 4cyl 22re is very reliable but I'd try to find one with a rebuilt motor.There are some mods you can check out on this and some other forums to give both the 4 and 6 some more power.I'm no expert but I haven't heard of any major problems with either tranny.Actually,I'm thinking about putting an auto tranny in mine so my daughter can drive it when she gets her license.I will say that a friend of mine took the auto out an put a manual in and said the truck ran faster and got better mileage.As far as the cap removal,it's a 2 man job unless you have some sort of lift or come-a-long.Also,look for one with good alignment.A couple of us have tried to get ours aligned and they can't do it because the bolts are seized up in the sleeves.Those bolts,sleeves,and bushings aren't cheap if you have to replace them.Most toyota parts aren't cheap period,so make a careful decision before you make your purchase!That's about all I can think of except,I'm very happy with mine!Good luck!

 

Go to the post"1st gen....good price?There's a good deal on ebay for an 88' with a camper included!Check it out.

 

What is the mpg diff between the 4 & 6 cylinder?
4cyl: 18 city 21 Hwy, 6cyl: 15 city 18 hwy (varies)

How reliable is the manual tranny over the auto?
Manuals have more power. My two stick truck never had tranny probs. Dunno about the autos.

Engine reliability diff between the 4 & 6 cylinder?
22re's a re very reliable but are susceptible to timing chain probs. ^cyl has headgasket issues later. Generally the extra power they have over the 4 is negligible.

How easy is the removable top to take on & off?
Ten minutes to unbolt, two people takes 3 minutes to lift off and put it somewhere. So 15 minutes max on or off. I would not recommend doing it alone, but has been done.

 

Wrote this for another board, the whole thread can be found here...

http://bbs.off-road.com/ubbthreads/s...=&fpart=1&vc=1


Re: any advice on buying a used 4 Runner? [re: hakefisherman]
11/16/02 12:16 PM Edit Reply

Unlike Hakefisherman, I have maintained my appreciation for the 1st generation 4runners. I love the convertible top, the economic 4banger, and it will do anything that the big ole new gens can do; maybe slower, maybe quieter, maybe not as well, but we can fit in smaller parking spots and tan while we're doing it. And I just plain disagree with the looks part, I think the broncos are awesome powerwise, but big and clunky loking. There are more cheap junkyard parts for us too...

If you get a first gen, first of all decide what you need from it, and wait for a good one that fits your needs; 4 cyl vs. 6, SR5 or not, etc... Bring a tape AND a CD...


First, look underneath it...
Look for any rust or damage, when in doubt poke rust spots with a screwdriver.
Check underneath for scrapes and gouges in the frame and suspension; this is a sure indication of abuse/offroading.
Check the shocks, tires, rims, boots, spare tire lowering mechanism, drivetrain, everything.
Look at the engine, check for clumps of dirt, non pro looking repairs, recent repairs, check radiator for previous repairs, look for old and cracked hoses and belts.
Last check all the fluids and remeber where they are.

Then start it, and mess around until it get's up to temperature, this will be to check for overheats when you're driving.
Rev the engine while you're looking at it under the hood, listen for wierd noises, clacking. You might get a few clacks at startup but they should go away quickly.
While that's happening, Make sure you see any maintenance records, since they're older vehicles, don't take the guys word for anything.
Be absolutely sure the timing chain has been done, unless you are willing to pay $1000 for it, or you're interested in a paying lower price for a possibly bad engine that you'll be swapping out, rebuilding, souping up or don't mind fixing. Listen to the engine while it warms up, it shoud idle fast but still sound smooth, then eventually slow to a regular idle.
Pop in your tape and or CD, check the radio, dig yer tunes, do a little dance, make a little love, get down according to whatever time it may be.
Check for rust at the top of rear wheel wells on the outside, once these start to go they go fast. (if you care about the body, optional)
Work the rear window a lot, test it from the key in the tailgate and from the switch inside, these window problems are expensive. If it's noisy or not smooth operating, drop the price a few hundred.
Test the clutch defeat button to the left of the steering wheel, not a biggie, but can keep it from starting when it goes.
Check the interior, the drivers seat padding wears out at the lower back, if you feel anything hard across there, you may have to fix it.
Look under the back seats as you fold them up and down. Don't mention the paper money that's there...
Look under the dash for do it yourself wiring, be careful if it goes to anything important.
Listen for signs of any fluid being low, a steering component that leaks is expensive.
Look at if from a distance and check if the back end sags much lower than the front, these spring are the same as the pickups and wear out.
Check for cold A/C and hot heat, check once at startup and again at normal temp. Make sure the levers move easily. Smell the air for radiator fluid smell or other.
The clocks are expensive, make sure it's working. Also, see if it's at the right time, if it's off by anything more that daylight savings check for and ask about electrical problems.
When your temp gets to normal range make sure the temp stops rising, stays in the normal range then go for the test drive.
Note the milage on the odometer and trip odo, before you start.
Make sure the speedo works and the odometers, tachs, etc. are spinning.
Feel if the suspension feels solid or if it's slops around corners or over bumps. Keep in mind it's not a car and will ride harder.
Note how smoothly and tightly the clutch holds.
Hot Heat, cold A/C, again, every setting.
Listen for any noises or difficulties in every gear, including reverse. Listen for loudness or grinding and note if from front, rear, middle, wheels, etc.
Get on the highway and floor it. Try to get through to 5th as fast as possible.
Later, get it up to the top of the 1st gear range then drop it into 4th and give some gas. Yes, 1st to 4th. It should sound really low and slow and groan a lot but if the engine has bad gaskets or valves they'll blow right now, before it's your problem.

After all this, if you still like it, offer to pay the $20- $30 and get your states safty and emissions inspections done.



894R: 30"BFG TA, red SR5 Gauges, new 22re, Marlin Clutch, Rear Speaker Boxes, Aiwa w/jack 4 laptop.