personally i would turn it back to stock and use it as my DD. Then I'd buy me a straight trail rig. I've been thinking about doing that with my 4runner.

 

Not trying to be a dick, but your runner is pretty stock. I would make it better and "right" so it is fine to DD and let your wife get whatever she wants.

Pumping money into an old trail rig will get you something cool, but if you don't have the time and money now, you will have an old stocker that is less capable. FInd a stock 40 for 5k. Put 3k worth of gears, lockers and tranny in it. Then put another 3-5k of springover on. Then drop a grand for assorted armor and at this point you are still on stock tires with a stock engine and you have something that is probably not fun to drive daily.

Gearing and supercharging yield two different sorts of power.

Build the runner with gearing and lockers. I love driving my trail rig all over and then wheeling it when there is time. The difference is my trail rig still drives pretty good.

 

Get the Tundra, don't sell the 4Runner.

 

Dam Cheese, sometimes your so briliant..........................

All you need is gears and a rear locker. Don't overinvent the wheel. Forget the Super Charger. Why?

Get a Marlin Crawler is you have that much extra money.

 

Thanks Steve, I am here all week...

Seriously though, a couple ARB's and your rig would spank. Throw on a rear bumper and I would call it mostly done for a rig that still sees street. You are a wheeler and have experience now, don't start all over with a 40 that will never get to the point of being trail worthy.

 

Nope, no problem. I realize my truck isn't setup for serious wheeling, but I do have quite a bit of time and money into it.

My question to you (and Steve for that matter) is will gears be enough to make the truck a reasonable daily driver and a good tower? I still need to be able to haul a 3500lb boat up and down hills at 65mph. Towing was the primary reason I was thinking about the SC. The road to my house is just under 2 miles long and goes steadily up hill - about 800'. It's a pretty good climb without the boat.

 

With 4.88's you will tow as good as you did with the tiny little tires.

Add 2 lockers and it will take you anywhere you want to go.

Plain and simple.

 

OK, I guess this is where I need help separating out the IFS bashers/SFA hype from the truth.

How capable is the standard travel IFS? I'm currently running HD OME gear. Obviously, I don't run really difficult trails, but I feel like I push my truck pretty good (though I'm still the limiting factor, not the truck). The front end hardly flexes at all. I'm sure part of that is because it doesn't need to, but I still wonder how it will behave hard harder trails.

 

More than you'll ever need.









Use the Aftershock run at the April Jambo. 20 Trucks started. 16 were Streight Axle. 4 Were IFS. At the end of the day 10 sat at the end. 10 DID NOT MAKE IT.

Of the 10 at the end, 4 were IFS.

That's all I needed. Pictures will never do that trail justice. It is one bad mojo.

 

4lo.com's tire calculators recommed 4.56s for me, not 4.88s. I realize the 4.88s will give me more low end torque, but will they be too tall when running down the highway at 80mph?

FWIW... my truck came with 3.90s and 28" tires (225/75-15s).

 

NO. Everyone has 4.88. Jeff, Mark from AZ, Group Buy, AZRain, Mike Brown, Vernon, Bruce, I could go on for ever.

We have 4.88's in our FJ-62 right now with 31's. It should have 33's and we drove it to San Diego at 80.

4.88's

 

Do you realize the cost of all this? Make it worth it and do it right the first time. That is what Mark Mason told me and the 5.29's are perfect with the 35's, they also did quite well with the 285's.

Also keep in mind most of the guys I listed run the 285. Which I put in the 32" class more these days. You have true 33's.

4.88's for sure.


R&P Install with parts: $1500
RD23 & RD90: $1260
Pump: $200

Total: $2960

You'll get your gasmilage back and more HP than a SC would give you with 3.90's and 33's.

You will be amazed.

 

Yea, I emailed a shop looking for a price quote on all this. I'm betting they come back around $3500. If I do it, I'm definitely doing it right the first time. I've learned that lesson.


Really? Wow... thanks for the info.

I think I'm done overanalyzing now. At least for the moment.

 

Don't get hung up on travel as a number. My truck does fine with basically a stock suspension. Schaefer has more travel and his does fine too. The main issue is how the travel works together front to rear.

I personally am not sold on long travel IFS. You get your tires on the ground more, but you do not have them loaded like a solid axle would.

I run 5.29's with real 33's and a 3.4 It really pulls strong and gets better mileage than with the 3.0. Sadly my tach does not yet work, so I cannot comment on mileage.

Towing with a lifted rig is less than optimal.

You should be able to do dual ARB's for 2500 if you pull thirds. Another 2 bills for a compressor and another grand to do manual hubs and your rig will handle everything you can take a rig with a body on.