I used an allow steel bolt, 145,000 psi minimum tensile strength and put them on with hardened washers between then and the ring. I did copy the idea from Rockstomper as well. I do plan on hanging onto the Grade 8 bolts (150Kpsi) that Champion used in case I start seeing problems on the trail. And the bolts are only torqued to 10-15 ft-lbs, I'm running 10 on mine.

 

Roger are those zinc plated? I need something that will resist rusting somewhat.

Looking at these for zinc-plated:

http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/PS...MainWidth=1455

Or these for stainless:
http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/PS...MainWidth=1455

This is what I have now (will be returning I guess):
http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/PS...MainWidth=1455

 

Cebby what about black pearl for your rims. I was just talking about painting my rims the other day. I was thinking either black pearl or just black.

 

I used the zinc plated steel for the lock ring. I used stainless bolts on the inside of the wheel to replace the fake aluminum rivets, just for a better appearance.

 

I've settled on the SEM trim black shown above. It will be easy to touch up when they get scratched up.

 

Thanks Roger. I think I'll swap my 85K psi stainless for something stronger.

 

Well, I've had a change of heart. I saw a pristine 2nd Gen 4Runner (stocker) running down the road and loved the look of the stock silver alloys on the rig. I picked up some silver wheel paint and I think we have a winner.

 

can't wait to see them on the truck!

 

Those rings look much better, the other set hides the rims too much.

Hehe, I like the trend, stock Toyota rims with beadlocks......

 

Uh, do those IFS rims have the right backspaceing for a Toyota Streight Axle? Because we know that is where you are heading.

With all that V8 power you will destroy the IFS as Cheese did with just a 3.4

Did you get the FSM from the smut board? It's there.

 

IFS rims won't work on the front straight axle w/o using 1" or wider wheel spacers.

 

Got the FSM - thanks!! I planned to do Sky's (or a cobbled together setup like 934rnr) axle widening up front. I "thought" that would work like a spacer except better. Does anyone know if its possible to run IFS wheels on an 85 SFA with the widening kit?

 

Bump!

 

Kind of a bummer...

I had wanted to use the flush mount valves for my wheels, but I can't fit the fill tube in due to the position of the lockring.

Plan B: Use angled valve stems. I bought the 45 degree units since the 90 degree ones would not allow the use of tire deflators and also making refilling pretty difficult.

I just hope these don't get ripped off out on the trail...

 

I had to run a similar style valve stem on my Champions. Haven't had them off road yet, but I think they will be OK. With the angled end, they seem to pivot if pushed hard instead of breaking off.

 

The short version: Mounting a tire on a beadlock wheel is a piece of cake -> do it yourself!

The long version: Read on....

Oh Man...

So I'm driving to various places to see who will slip the bottom bead of my tire onto the rim so I can bolt the ring on. I've seen folks really wrestle with getting the tire on the rim, so I figured I'd pop down to my local tire shop.

Place I usually go has closed their doors - no longer in business.

Other place I'd normally try says they can't do a tire that big.

3rd place I go, the guy wants to charge me $20 because I didn't buy his crap Mile Maker tires - then he takes one look at it and says no way. What a putz - he actually did me a favor, but he's still a putz since he didn't realize it and was an a-hole about it.

Soooo.....

I go back to the office and look up tire spoons and all the various DIY hardware "needed" to do mount the tire.

I wasn't about to wait for tools to come in.....

I finally do a google search for mounting tires on beadlock wheels. I came a across this writeup that showed exactly what to do. Basically, put the wheel on the ground, pull the ring, put a little dish soap on the bead and slip it over the beadlock side. Then bolt her down.... I found that the supplied bolts were too short to get the ring started, so I ran down to the local hardware store and got (8) 1 1/2" long bolts (5/16-18) to get the rings pulled down a little so the supplied bolts (1 1/4" long) would reach. Then the torquing... 15 ft lbs per criss-cross pattern x 24....

Here's the finished product:


It measures 35" tall x 12" wide mounted. I will likely swap out the gold bolts for galvanized button head socket like Rogers.

 

Wait until you need to remove the tires from your rims...now that's a pain in the butt. For my friend's swampers it was a heck of a lot easier putting them on than taking them off.

 

yeah, but it takes forever.
and it sucks when you're doing it with a crappy torque wrench. i gotta invest in a good one for next time.

beadlocking toyota wheels...i like it

 

He's some more wheel p0rn.... (battery died on the digital eariler)







You can see how the "rim protector" protects the lock ring in the last pic.

 

OK, the beadlocked SR5 alloy weighs 21.2 lbs. What does a bare SR5 alloy weigh - Beuller?