So, I just pulled the throttle body off of my 3rzfe, cleaned the hell out of it, let it dry, and reinstalled with a new gasket. The throttle body was dirty as hell. I get everything connected, and I go to start it, and it sounds exactly like it's going to start as usual, but then it dies. if you give it gas, it makes it worse. I've double checked all connections. Seems very odd that it won't start. I also replaced the TPS, and I know normally it will start without the TPS being conencted, so I've also tried starting without the TPS connected. No difference.

Though here's something I noticed. I think it's called the delivery pipe (the pipe above the injectors running on the right side of the engine). The back mounting bolt was out nearly 1/4 inch, but the front oen was tight. I noticed this while installing the throttle body. I tightened them both to 12 ft lbs as directed by chilton.

Please help! This is my only vehicle!

 

Why did you replace the TPS?

 

Why:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/strange-sputtering-62779/

 

Does it start and run a few seconds and then die, or does it not crank over at all? I haven't been able to tell from your posts so far.

That's called the "fuel rail", BTW, and it's the pipe that delivers a constant supply for fuel to the injectors, which the ECU then open or close, depending. If one bolt was loose, it may have been permitting the injector(s) on that end to not get a good seal, leaking air in around the o rings, and causing a very lean condition in those two cylinders. You need to make sure the injectors are all seated properly. No fuel leaking past them when you force the fuel pump on by jumpering the B+ and Fp- terminals in the little test jumper box just aft of the fuse box in the engine compartment.

Have you checked all the fuses in both fuse boxes? have you checked the fusible links? Does the starter turn the engine over?

Need more input!

EDIT: Another thought: Have you reset the ECU? Try pulling the EFI fuse for a minute or two, or pulling the negative battery cable. Just a thought...

 

Thank you so much for replying so quickly.

Yes, it turns over l runs for about a second, and then dies. So, I also thought about resetting the efi, so I pulled the fuse, and then back in, and I did notice a difference. I jumped up to about 1500 rpm, and died. I can now keep it going for about 5 seconds, by playing with the throttle a little. I then tried loosening the fuel rail back bolt again, but no diff either. I haven't checked ALL fuses. I will go and try to jump the B+ and FP- and see what happens.

 

Did u accidently unhook your maf?

Edit* I know its not an exactly called an maf.... but you get the idea

 

the airflow sensor? Nope, I didn't take the air filter box out.

 

Ok, so I see the connector, but it's not right behind the engine compartment fuse box. It's actually bolted on to the front of the intake manifold. I see +B but not FP- I see FP, but there is no actual metal connection for that label... I'm confused...

 

The labeling may be a little different over the years. No big. If there's no connector there, though, that's a whole 'nother problem. It may have been pushed through by a PO.

You may find more information on these pages to help better. I'm a 22R guy mostly. But there's really9 only 2 questions you need to get the answers to, to start teh troubleshooting process: Is there spark, and Is there fuel. I think that refernce I gave may help at least get you going in the right direction...

 

actually, it is a MAF on a 2.7

 

Cracked intake hose (3"hard rubber hose from air box to throttle body). Mine did that after cleaning my throttle body it was cracked on the bottom along one of the creases. Took about an hour of looking at all the other stuff to find it, when I removed the hose I happen to see the bottom cracked. The Stealership wanted $70+ for the hose and they had to order it. I went to Napa and got a 3" section of hose for the turbo on a truck(Big Rig),hose clamps, sillicon, and about 30 min of cutting and fitting I saved my self about $65. Just something to check out!

 

yeh definately check that hose....and if it is cracked then its time for an ISR mod

 

Yeah, I'd vote for a loose air intake system component as you've removed the throttle body for cleaning which means that you had to remove the air intake system in order to get it off.

 

Wait a sec. I haven't hooked up the rest of the filter system. These parts aren't back in yet:



Shouldn't it run without those parts on the engine? I know I've done it before.... Though that was after I replaced my exhaust manifold.

Should I put these back in and try again? Also, trx125, is the hose you're talking about the one on the left in that pic?

OH, and what's an ISR mod?

 

it wont run without those tubes, the computer doesn't see airflow over the MAF and wont give enough fuel to run on

 

"ISR" stands for Intake Silencer Removal, which is where you take all of that hose crap off that you're dealing with now and replace it with one solid tube going directly to the air filter.
You can find out all about the "ISR" by typing it into the "Search" window, but you'll need to put all of that on to get it to run now.

 

Holy crap. Inspedted all parts for cracks, installed all parts, and voila... fired right up. Must have run last time because I didn't have the MAF or IAT plugged in. Going for a test drive now...

THANKS A TON GUYS!!!!

 

That's what we're here for, the troubled 'Yota enthusiast.

 

Glad it's going. Silly me, I'd thought you'd put it all together

 

Man, this whole fuel injected/computer stuff is just not what I was used to when I had my 85 truck with the 22r. Sweet. Now I'm learnin all kinds of stuff.