95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

Headlight (HID) Upgrade - "NOTTO" or a better one?

Old Oct 16, 2011 | 06:37 AM
  #21  
Evilmunkey's Avatar
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From: Acworth, GA
Originally Posted by 4Tard
Putting projectors in your headlights isn't hard. There's G1s, G3s and Morimoto projectors that yield progressively better out put and are direct fit to your housing without any modification aside from separating the lens from reflector frame.

Any cheap ballast and bulb will work. I use the DDM stuff for $25. Lifetime warranty and never had an issue yet. Don't waste your money on "premium" kits, its all the same junk with different stickers on the ballasts.



You wouldn't happen to have a link to the site you got your projectors from, and yeah the seperating the lens is easy as long as you bake them carefully. .

And yeah one of my co-workers got 2 HID kits for $50 and his ballasts were smaller than these "Premium" kits (tech has advanced enough).
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 01:01 PM
  #22  
ETRNL's Avatar
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From: Portland, OR
@tunnel for sets of bulbs in a year sounds like either the drl or low power is killing them. Check what the voltage is at the bulb. Before I built my harness I had a 3.5v drop at the bulb. Now I have direct battery voltage to my headlights. This is a common problem in yotas.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 05:06 PM
  #23  
JamesDINAN's Avatar
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From: Cary, NC
Originally Posted by Evilmunkey
Me myself the only HID conversion I want is for my factory fogs, and yes if you're going to do the "painless" kit, do it right and convert your assemblies to focused beams.
Surely, if I go HID I will definitely do it "right". Question though, in our rigs (since I would be installed a full HID kit) is there any reason I should NOT go w/ the 55w instead of 35w? Seems it should be brighter and at same cost...but, is "heat" an issue or is there something else I should be considering here to sway away from 55w?? So far, sounds to me that if I invest the $$ might as well do it right and, sounds like 55w over 35w is the way to go (until I'm told differently).

Perhaps a stupid question but, if I install the WHOLE kit, does that mean I would be "street-legal" when it comes to annual vehicle inspections??
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 07:38 PM
  #24  
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From: Peachtree City, GA
Originally Posted by ETRNL
@tunnel for sets of bulbs in a year sounds like either the drl or low power is killing them. Check what the voltage is at the bulb. Before I built my harness I had a 3.5v drop at the bulb. Now I have direct battery voltage to my headlights. This is a common problem in yotas.
That was actually between 2 cars, a 2002 S-10 and a 2003 Civic. The civic didn't have drls and the S-10 used the hi-beams for drl. I don't know why they kept going out...if you read the back of the Silverstar box, there is a chart showing the different silverstar bulb brightness levels and their respective service lives...the ultras have the shortest. When I swapped to HIDs on the runner last December I put the PIAA bulbs in the wife's 2010 Honda Fit and one of them finally blew last week. Those were some awesome bulbs but ~$65/pair...ouch!

BTW, if anyone wants a nice 5000K HID kit I have one...

Last edited by tunnelmotor99; Oct 16, 2011 at 07:42 PM.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 08:32 PM
  #25  
ETRNL's Avatar
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From: Portland, OR
Originally Posted by Evilmunkey
Me myself the only HID conversion I want is for my factory fogs, and yes if you're going to do the "painless" kit, do it right and convert your assemblies to focused beams.
Aren't the factory fogs already some type of projection? Shouldn't you just be able to find an hid kit in the type of bulb and install them? Come to think of it what type of bulb are the fogs?
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Old Oct 17, 2011 | 12:43 PM
  #26  
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From: Acworth, GA
yeah you can just hook a kit up the factory fog housings. I can't remember what buld is in them (the rear housing on my fogs was rusted through when I bought the truck)
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