As some of you know I burned up my stock tranny when I got my SAS. I was pretty sure I had a tranny cooler installed along with it and didn't think this would be happening. So recently it's been kicking hard when I shift it into D from P or D to R or from R to D. Kicks as in moving the whole rear end. I had to replace a lower rear U-Joint so i figured that had something to do with it. I mean, you can see and hear it kick quite hard sometimes. So I dropped it off today at Mr. Transmission where I got it rebuilt at. I don't know if that was the best decision but whatever. I called later this afternoon to check up on it and see what they said. They guy Frank( owner and operator), told me it had hard engagements and he was going to check the pressure of something and that they were all normal. I think the locations or shift points I'm not sure but I know the shift points are pressure related. He said that they were as they should be, I think the numbers went higher as he said them cause he said about 5 or so. So what are some issues with this? What else could it be?If anyone knows I'd like to know cause I want to be able to understand this guy when I talk to him again tomorrow.



Thanks.

 

added some more info to the story.

 

Try lowering the idle to reduce the kick on the tranny when you put it in, or go through directional gears.

Other than that, the shift points are regulated by pressure and inasmuch as you've had it recently rebuilt, perhaps you've finally gotten all of the gunk out of it that was clogging up the pressure tubes/channels and it's raring to go ???

 

lol yeah but it's damn bad the whole vehicle will kick sometimes you can visably see the rear end jolt a little bit. Another thing is it will kind of kick when I'm driving and I let off the gas. You can hear it sometimes but not every time. I don't let off my gas real quick or anything I ease it off but when I release you know it does it. I dont have money to invest in traction bars either. I should have one already but I think the company that did my SAS kinda stiffed me on one and I'm PRETTY sure I paid for it. I haven't remembered to check my reciepts but now that I remember I will here shortly.

The idle as the rpm idle? Sometimes it starts REAL low like it wont start at all but then after I try again or it starts on its on after the weak sounding struggle, it starts. I just got a new battery terminal not too long ago but what I just described (emphasis on this) rarely has happened. It's only happened twice I think. Other than that it idles fine. I know about the screw to turn if thats what you mean?

(BTW: Is there something you can turn thats the air fuel mixture on the engine block near the throttle body? If thats what I'm talking about above I'm sure someone is going to laugh but I won't know if I dont ask. But if thats it I know how to turn that but I might have a bad o2 sensor because I get the smell I'm running rich sometimes.)

Thanks.

 

It's important to have good sensors in order to get the proper signals fromn your engine, so I'd probally look into that before I'd do anything.

The screw that you're referring to (on the side of the throttle body) adjusts the idle by reducing the fuel mixture so that it runs leaner and/or not as rich... The screw found under the plate cap (that you have to carefully drill out) on top of the throttle body is what adjusts the air.

Ideally, both should be adjusted together in sequence either by ear or with a meter.

 

So what do you recommend I do? Get my o2 sensors checked out and then what?
I also don't know the very technical terms for things so if you wouldn't mine putting in more detail if your respose is technical.

I'm about to call the guy here after my Dr Appt. at noon so I'll check back then.

ALSO: I guess no one ever bothered to respond to this other thread I wrote but here's the question from it. The other day on the way to the shop I notes something hanging over my rear 3rd member. I got out and checked cause I heard a clanking sound. I asked my buddy who is a mechanic and he told me it was my speed sensor. It looked like it had not been hooked up for quite some time. About as long as I've had my SAS. Which was completed in January of '05. What should I do with it? Will this have anything to do with it? I doubt it but you never know...at least I dont. haha

Try to answer one or both if you know any answers cause I'm ALWAYS finding some new problem with this thing. Probably cause I've taken it to so many different repair shops. =/

Thanks for reading.

 

buuuuuump

 

I was talking about the O2 sensors that the ECU (the brain) reads to determine how to regulate fuel and/or air flow, not the "speed" sensor, 'kay ?

For additional clarification... Is your's a 4 or 6 cylinder ?

 

Yes I know about the o2 sensors a little bit.


6 cyl

 

O'kay, this is easy. The idle adjusting screw is located on the top of the throttle body, towards the rear of it and faces the front of the vehicle.

You really can't miss it, it's about 3/8's of an inch in diameter and looking right at you as you stand at the front of your ride, looking at it.

Make sure that you've got everything turned off, i.e., AC, and hook up a hand held tachometer so that you can monitor the idle as you adjust it, if you have'nt got the "ear" for it.

Fire your ride up and let it sit and run until it reaches normal operating temperature then, using the linkage under the hood, hold it at 2500 rpm's for a couple of minutes and then allow it to return to it's regular idle.

Check the tachometer for the engine speed and see if it matches whats on your VECI label under your hood, which should be 8000.

If it's not, turn the screw a little at a time and wait for your adjustment to fully register on the meter until you've got it down to 8000.

I'd twist the throttle once after each adjustment just to make sure that it was registering and if you pay attention to the meter, you'll be able to make sure that you're turning the screw in the right direction (sorry, I can't remember the right direction).

Before you do do all of this, it would probally be wise to either change out all of the sensors, or at least make sure that they were functioning properly, as they are were the ECM reads the engines operating tolerances.

 

Maybe it's in the transfer case or a differential?