Originally Posted by casey225

I was searching again for a DIY pad replacement thread, and while there are a few written descriptions, none with pics - does anyone know in one exists? This would make me feel a more confident that I won't drive into a tree afterwars. However, in one thread, there was a post where someone recommended bleeding your brakes when changing pads, but, later posts stated you didn't need to do this. This is where I got the wrong idea about bleeding with pad replacement.

Originally Posted by RacerX

If changing the rotors just make sure you have something to hold the calipers while you are swapping old to new rotors as there inst much play in the line.

I usually torque wheels properly then re-torque them after 50 miles.

Btw, I have an extra 199mm tundra set up with rotors, that USPS finally located, if anyone needs a set

Originally Posted by RacerX

Btw, I have an extra 199mm tundra set up with rotors, that USPS finally located, if anyone needs a set

Originally Posted by RacerX

If changing the rotors just make sure you have something to hold the calipers while you are swapping old to new rotors as there inst much play in the line.

I usually torque wheels properly then re-torque them after 50 miles.

Btw, I have an extra 199mm tundra set up with rotors, that USPS finally located, if anyone needs a set

Originally Posted by QSVeilside

My recommendation:

1. Brembo blanks
2. Stock pads
3. Goodridge SS brakelines - Best price at: http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?fo...action=product
4. Adjust your rear drums. Otherwise your front rotors do all the work to stop our overweight trucks - increase predisposition for warping. Search for the thread.

Crossdrilled/slotted - Once useful at ventilating outgassing. Not necessary unless you do some serious racing, and even those that do, there are pads today that allow efficient heat ventilation. Crossdrilling will decrease the weight of the rotor, which will make it heat up faster, (think a small metal pot vs. a heavier metal pot... Which will boil water faster?), and result in "stress risers." Slotted will give you a fresh pad surface every time you step on the brake... which may or may not improve braking, but will force you to buy pads more often. In conclusion, crossdrilled/slotted rotors are pretty much only for aesthetic purposes. If you think they're sexy and have an extra $20 per rotor to spend, go for it.

Off of the Baer FAQ:

"Will slotting or crossdrilling my rotors improve my car's stopping performance?

DEFINITELY NOT! Crossdrilled or slotted rotors do produce a strong visual appeal behind a modern open wheel, and they do have a performance edge when pad outgassing occurs. Outgassing occurs at extreme temperatures when the bonding agents that hold the pad material together break down into a gas form. This gas creates a pneumatic barrier between the rotor and the pad, reducing friction. Crossdrilling or slotting creates a path for the outgassing that occurs during extreme braking conditions. However, these conditions can virtually never be reached on the street! Short of a complete system, performance brake pads, a proper Teflon lined braided stainless steel hose set and quality brake fluids are the only direct replacement upgrades that can be combined to deliver measurable stopping improvements in the context of direct replacement components on the OE brake system."

www.baer.com
Go to baertech, then to F.A.Q, (frequently asked questions)