Front Brake Problems 98 Toy 4 Runner
#1
Front Brake Problems 98 Toy 4 Runner
I have been experiencing front brake problems for about 6 months. Here's the issue, drivers side front is wearing badly, slight pull to the left or drivers side. also feeling a bit of a grinding at 10 to 5 mph same side.
I replaced pads and rotors, Same issue. decided to do the calipers, bought from a bone yard watched them pull from the vehicle, put them in bleed the brakes same issue, replaced front lines, bleed brakes same issue, Changed the ABS actuator control valve from same car from bone yard same issue...
This problem is driving me crazy, If anyone knows of a situation or remedy I would greatly appreciate it,
I never bring my car to dealers. I just don't trust them and I fix everything myself
TC
I replaced pads and rotors, Same issue. decided to do the calipers, bought from a bone yard watched them pull from the vehicle, put them in bleed the brakes same issue, replaced front lines, bleed brakes same issue, Changed the ABS actuator control valve from same car from bone yard same issue...
This problem is driving me crazy, If anyone knows of a situation or remedy I would greatly appreciate it,
I never bring my car to dealers. I just don't trust them and I fix everything myself
TC
#2
Registered User
You don't mention an alignment even though you have uneven tire wear and a pull to one side? I'd start there. Alignment guys will also check for issues such as tie rod ends that could contribute to this.
Finally, any chance your right rear drum brake is dragging? I'd check them, too, especially the bellcranks (lever on back that connects to e-brake cable).
Finally, any chance your right rear drum brake is dragging? I'd check them, too, especially the bellcranks (lever on back that connects to e-brake cable).
#4
Registered User
#5
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
That was kinda vague you just said the left front is wearing bad.
Why anyone would go with calipers from a yard unless one was planning to rebuild them. Just scares me.
When you bleed the right side did you get plenty of fluid and air out??
If the left side pads are wearing fast either that caliper is hung up or the right side is not working.
It can be hung up from a bad valve a crushed or kinked line allowing fluid in under pressure but it takes a long time to release the fluid.
Do you have more than normal heat build up on the left side??
Grinding wheel bearing starting to fail that should be easy to find if the wheel comes off.
It has only been six months why fix it now??
Why anyone would go with calipers from a yard unless one was planning to rebuild them. Just scares me.
When you bleed the right side did you get plenty of fluid and air out??
If the left side pads are wearing fast either that caliper is hung up or the right side is not working.
It can be hung up from a bad valve a crushed or kinked line allowing fluid in under pressure but it takes a long time to release the fluid.
Do you have more than normal heat build up on the left side??
Grinding wheel bearing starting to fail that should be easy to find if the wheel comes off.
It has only been six months why fix it now??
#6
Registered User
Sounds like a caliper is sticky, but since you replaced the caliper with a different one and the symptoms continued, it's pretty unlikely that the new one was similarly sticky.
Another culprit for a dragging brake could also be the ABS valve body, but you replaced that as well.
Getting slim on issues that would affect a single wheel's brakes. Maybe check the hard lines from the ABS valve body to the flex line? Maybe one got crushed, and allows fluid to go out under pressure, but maintains some back pressure. Or, slightly more likely - an issue with the flex line itself. I've seen it on older cars - but the hose can swell internally and act as a one way valve - allowing fluid to go out when you stomp the pedal, but holding some back pressure and not allowing the caliper to back off all the way.
Another culprit for a dragging brake could also be the ABS valve body, but you replaced that as well.
Getting slim on issues that would affect a single wheel's brakes. Maybe check the hard lines from the ABS valve body to the flex line? Maybe one got crushed, and allows fluid to go out under pressure, but maintains some back pressure. Or, slightly more likely - an issue with the flex line itself. I've seen it on older cars - but the hose can swell internally and act as a one way valve - allowing fluid to go out when you stomp the pedal, but holding some back pressure and not allowing the caliper to back off all the way.
#7
Like the Header said Brake Issues.... For those who assume this may be an alignment issue, also here's new parts installed Front brake lines, rotors, pads, yes I picked up calipers from salvage yard, however unlikely to have identicle problem after put them in. also the ABS actuator control valve. Dealer wants 1588.00 just for this item.... I properly Bleed the system from rear to front, only thing I haven't done is replace the speed sensors in front. or the Proportion valve in rear. I assume being front brake issue that the Proportion valve will not be the issue.... I will bring into dealer to diagnose for the 50 or 60 bucks... but I just don't like bringing to them tell me something different ect...
Oh by the way, I checked all hard lines and none are crushed
Oh by the way, I checked all hard lines and none are crushed
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#8
Like the Header said Brake Issues.... For those who assume this may be an alignment issue, also here's new parts installed Front brake lines, rotors, pads, yes I picked up calipers from salvage yard, however unlikely to have identicle problem after put them in. also the ABS actuator control valve. Dealer wants 1588.00 just for this item.... I properly Bleed the system from rear to front, only thing I haven't done is replace the speed sensors in front. or the Proportion valve in rear. I assume being front brake issue that the Proportion valve will not be the issue.... I will bring into dealer to diagnose for the 50 or 60 bucks... but I just don't like bringing to them tell me something different ect...
Oh by the way, I checked all hard lines and none are crushed
Oh by the way, I checked all hard lines and none are crushed
Have similar problem, any answers?
Thanks
#9
Its pretty typical to post on a forum with a desperate plea for help and then disappear with no conclusion. I normally dont respond to actors with less than 20 posts to their credit. This actor has only 3 posts. Enough said
I would check the Master cyl and the caliper flex lines once the caliper pistons are shown to be freely moving. An easy test for a bad caliper is to check the temp between left and right sides with your hand. Be Careful, it could be very hot. If the temps are similar, its probably a steering or suspension part. If one is much hotter than the other, then the cold caliper is seized or the hotter caliper is dragging.
A failing flex line will reduce grip on the rotor and maintain fluid pressure after you lift your foot from the pedal.
In this case, with limited info, it looks like the pads are not retracting or the opposite side isnt working.
I would check the Master cyl and the caliper flex lines once the caliper pistons are shown to be freely moving. An easy test for a bad caliper is to check the temp between left and right sides with your hand. Be Careful, it could be very hot. If the temps are similar, its probably a steering or suspension part. If one is much hotter than the other, then the cold caliper is seized or the hotter caliper is dragging.
A failing flex line will reduce grip on the rotor and maintain fluid pressure after you lift your foot from the pedal.
In this case, with limited info, it looks like the pads are not retracting or the opposite side isnt working.
Last edited by DRCOFFEE; 07-01-2015 at 04:57 AM.
#10
Its pretty typical to post on a forum with a desperate plea for help and then disappear with no conclusion. I normally dont respond to actors with less than 20 posts to their credit. This actor has only 3 posts. Enough said
I would check the Master cyl and the caliper flex lines once the caliper pistons are shown to be freely moving. An easy test for a bad caliper is to check the temp between left and right sides with your hand. Be Careful, it could be very hot. If the temps are similar, its probably a steering or suspension part. If one is much hotter than the other, then the cold caliper is seized or the hotter caliper is dragging.
A failing flex line will reduce grip on the rotor and maintain fluid pressure after you lift your foot from the pedal.
In this case, with limited info, it looks like the pads are not retracting or the opposite side isnt working.
I would check the Master cyl and the caliper flex lines once the caliper pistons are shown to be freely moving. An easy test for a bad caliper is to check the temp between left and right sides with your hand. Be Careful, it could be very hot. If the temps are similar, its probably a steering or suspension part. If one is much hotter than the other, then the cold caliper is seized or the hotter caliper is dragging.
A failing flex line will reduce grip on the rotor and maintain fluid pressure after you lift your foot from the pedal.
In this case, with limited info, it looks like the pads are not retracting or the opposite side isnt working.
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