Just cut the vacuum line at the point just after the first elbow after the hose leaves the IAC tube on the TB and insert the valve --- that's it. Simple!

LMK how it works for you.

 

I just ckecked and didn't see the little white valve. I am also not quite sure what I am looking at.

Could you take a slightly larger angle picture of the thottle body? I need to see the whole throttle body to get my bearings. The only elbow that I see is comming off of the supercharger, right after the supercharger connects.

Thanks,
Noel

 

Look at the bottom picture.

As you're facing the truck, this is the angle. Look at the brass tubing. There is rubber hose coming off this tubing. It looks as though one would cut through this and just insert the valve. I'll try and get another pic tonight but those are tuff angles.

GL,

Nick

 

Thanks. I'll have to check it tomorrow. It just started pouring here. I washed the truck today, why wouldn't it be pouring?

 

BlueTrane,

Do you have any idea why the installation manual states to not install the IAC valve in the first place? I was unclear if the tech who installed the IAC valve on yours got the direction from TRD to install that valve or if he just decided to see what would happen if he did.

 

A couple of things ....

Where is the IAC vacuum line? When you are standing in front of the engine bay, look at the left side of the throttle body and to the rear of the throttle body. The brass colored elbow tube that turns straight down and transitions into a rubber hose that does NOT have a hose clamp on it, is the IAC vacuum line.

According to the mechanic that installed the new SC on BlueTrane's truck, TRD told him to install the IAC valve. It is typical of for mfg's to make changes in the field because in their hurry to put product on the market WE end up being an extenstion of their R&D.

 

Thanks for the info Peter. Im gonna have to try it on mine.

 

Bruce,
I see that you have it all going on with your truck --- thermostat, colder plugs, etc. I am very interested to see how the IAC valve affects the mix. On my truck, it was revolutionary and extraordinary! When you install the valve, you might want to disassemble the intake silencer box so that you have better access to the IAC line. I am using the ISR tube so it was easier for me and all I did was disconnect the end of the ISR tube that was closest to the TB. I was then able to pull the rubber hose off of the tube on the TB, snake it out for more access to it. I then cut it just after the first right angle bend in the tube when it turns to run horizontally and toward the rear. You want to cut it at a point midway (in the middle) between that first bend and the next bend it makes. It's about a 4" section that we are talking about. The valve fits in-line and is horizontal in position with the black mark facing toward the TB (at the intake side).

Unless you live in a climate that is very hot all the time, you might want to consider reinstalling the 180* thermostat sometime if you have no other problems. Also, did you gap the one-step colder plugs down or did you install them as they come out of the box? If you installed them with the factory gap, you might want to try gapping the OE heat range plugs to about .032 - .035 and using them again to see what you notice.

Good luck.

 

Peter,

Thanks again for the info. I installed the plugs with the factory gap. Im gonna try and find time to get the IAC valve installed by this weekend. I will definitely update this post with my results.

 

That should be about .035 - .037 for the BKR6EK (Stock# 2288) plugs. It's good that you didn't try to gap them down because my observation was that it had a negative impact on performance. The only reason that I gapped them to .032 was because the boost was blowing out the spark.

I am now using the stock BKR5EKB plugs gapped to .032, but want to try regapping them to .035 (?).

 

Ok, Ok, Ok. I checked and checked for the IAC comming off of the throttle body with no luck. I was at the dealer today and had the tech that installed the supercharger look for it with me. Neither one of us could find the brass down pipe that is in the picture. The tech told me that Toyota has used a few different throttle bodies, and that the ones on the 4Runners may be different from the ones on the Tacomas.

So now the question is, where is the Idle Air Controll on my throttle body? If I need to insert that one-way valve somewhere...where is it?

 

The first thing folks as well as TRD need to do is to stop calling this the IAC hose or valve. The correct nomenclature is the "air assist hose" Anyone mechanic at a dealership should be able to located the hose by accessing their information system or factory shop manual.

Gadget

www.GadgetOnline.com

 

That may just be the answer that I was looking for.

Are there any downloadable shop manuals so that I could do the research myself.

 

Noel-

It may be different since your truck is newer than mine, but on my throttle body there are only 3 large hoses that attach to it. Two of them have metal clips on them where they attach to the TB because they carry coolant (after your truck has been running they will be hot). The third is just attached through friction. That is the hose that needs to have the valve placed in it. To located it most easily I would suggest removing the intake tube and possibly the TB. On mine it is underneath the TB and squished betweeen the TB and injector wiring loom. If you still cannot find it you can call me (if you want PM me and I'll give you my phone number) or take several pictures and post them here and someone will figure it out.

Good luck

 

Milan -
Has anyone tried rerouting the coolant hoses out of the TB? We did this with the Chevy TB's so that the TB would remain cooler. The only reason they run the hoses to the TB is so the heated coolant can assist the driveability of the vehicle in cooler weather. Therefore, the air entering into the engine is being heated.

I am pretty sure this is the same idea here.

 

A lot of folks, including myself, bypass the throttle body coolant plumbing on the EFI Mustangs. I *almost* did it to my Taco when I put the s/c on, but at the time I wanted to leave the truck as stock as possible. Now that I've done so many mods, including an SMT which I'm about to throw in the mix, I guess there's no point in trying to keep it stock any longer hehe.

 

ManyMods,
I have been running with the coolant line bypassed for over 2 years. Can't say it did anything but I figured it wouldn't hurt. Driveability in the winter wasn't affected but it doesn't really get below 0 much in the mountains around here. Really easy to do.

 

I agree, it yields no noticeble differencs but according to some of the brainy guys in my Chevy group, it _does_ help keep the air cooler. I think I will look into doing this to my truck ... what the heck.

 

Yes, I did it last summer and then returned it to stock once things got cold because I was worried about icing up my TB butterfly. I may do it again once I put my injectors back in. I haven't decided yet. I had it rerouted before I had my SC on so I can't say whether there was a difference in the SC temps.

Gadget has suggested using a surgical hemostat to clamp the lines for occasional use, but I've seen heated lines crack before when they've been pinched, let alone clamped, so I won't go that route.

 

BTW, I can't remember for sure what I did on my Chevy TB when I removed the water hoses, but I know I sprayed something into the water bypass cavity in the TB before I put the nipple caps on. I think I first used Brake Kleen and then used WD-40.