The rear end never felt like it was braking properly, and I knew it had something to do with the LSPV. So while rotating the tires I made sure the rear brake shoes were properly adjusted, which they were. So I deceded to lock out the LSPV so that the rears get full pressure. I then test drove it on dry pavement. When I slam on the brakes the rear locks up, but it still drives straight. I even slammed on the brakes starting into a turn and it still felt stable. The big thing is that under normal to hard braking I no longer get front shake and it slows down very evenly. The final test will be in the rain when it comes.

 

im interested in this after the problems i have had. i deffinatley fell that the rear is lacking in the brake department. can you tell me how to adjust the shoes and this LSPV?

 

To check shoe adjustment the tire has to be off the ground, and the truck in neutral and e-brake off so that the tire can spin freely. The tire should spin but stop real quick like it has resistance. It will never just sit there and spin because its hooked up to the drivetrain, but if u give it a decent turn and it spins 1/2 turn or more, it probably doesn't have brake shoe resistance. To adjust pop off the rectangle adjustment hole boot from the back of the drum brake. Take a flat head screwdriver and push the notched wheel up. It will make a click, and after every click spin the tire and check the resistance.

For the LSPV I didn't even try to adjust it. I did pop off the rubber boot to get an idea of how it works. There is a plunger that comes out of the valve housing. U can not make it move by hand. As brakes are applied the plunger comes down (maybe 1/16"-1/8") and will strike the lever that attaches to the spring. Depending on when the plunger stops on the lever is how much pressure is sent to the rear brakes. With a lift I would need to make some brackets to raise the mount off the Panhard bar to give proper pressure and then still play with it to get it right. And from my past experiece w/ older Yotas, I know that they never really work that great so I thought I would try it set to full open all the time and save myself some work if the brakes operate fine.

So far I have had great success with locking it out. Tonight it was raining and I did some hard stops to test the brakes out. It never did lock up and felt very stable and confident. So I have to slam the brakes to lock it up, but w/o ABS that is to be expected. This should save my new front rotors from warping, from working too hard. I was wondering if removing the valve and connecting the hard lines w/ a rubber line would put out the same pressure?? Maybe I should experiment. I have plenty of lines on my old Yota I could use to try it out.

 

which direction did you "lock" it out, full up (towards truck) or full down (towards ground)? I never liked the way my rear brakes felt, so I might try it.

 

full up will open the LPSV "full" open.

i just bent mine up and ran a self tapping screw into one of the bed sub supports thats right above it.

It helped the rear brakeing quite a bit, but after i swapped axles the shoe adjustment was actally like right and now it lockes up a bit 2 quick when i dont have a load in the bed.

wet pavement can be a challange, but your results may varry based on the adjustment of the shoes...

 

If u have a truck, I would keep it ajustable, beacause of the light end. But w/ a Runner u always have a heavy end and don't really need the LSPV in my opinion.

 

If you have ABS, you won't have a LSPV.

 

well i have ABS so what should i do...dream!!!!

 

Thank God

 

 

ABS is a good thing.
If your brakes are soft, then bleed them and adjust the rears.

 

ABS trucks have no need for a LSPV. The rears can get full pressure, and if they begin to lock up, the ABS starts to work.

 

I have a 97 4Runner with ABS and it always felt to me like the backs werent working enough. They are adjusted and have all new fluid--but they just dont feel like they grab very well. So just saying i have the same opinion of the 4Runner brakes. The fronts are also a little touchy. Always thought that was just how they were.

 

My abs feels like it is always working, I get a click click sound when I apply the brake, the sound comes from the engine bay like the master cylinder, but I’ve been running fine like this for a few thousand miles.....should I be concerned????? It just annoying when I drive it

 

I've been trying to do the self-adjusting technique by driving reverse and pulling on the e-brake, but I'm having no luck. My rears feel like they dont even work. When braking my nose kind of dives down, which tells me my fronts are the ones doing the work. I'll have to manually adjust the rears to get some action in the back I guess. Any write ups on rear manual adjustments?

 

My second posts tells u how to adjust rear shoes.

 

If you live anywhere your truck might rust, check the parking brake bellcranks (parking brake levers) to make sure they are free to move, if not, the self adjusting technique will not work. Those bellcranks have a nasty habit of rusting up and stopping the rears from adjusting correctly.

 

since i'm planning to adjust my rear brakes this weekend i'll post some pics of the steps...i'm probably gonna post it in a new thread...

 

I had this same issue. I Jacked up the rear and put in gear and got the rear spinning and applied the brakes the rear would not stop immediately but come to a slow stop. I also had a lift and the spring pack was keeping the emergency brake from working by hitting the little arm on the spring pack. I removed the overload spring and that fixed the emergency brake. and i cut and bent the LSP and stuck it in a hole in the underside of the body. Now when i spin the tires real fast and apply the brakes it stops immediately.

 

I have ABS and an LSPV.