few slider questions
#21
Originally posted by bobzemuda
Why are 4crawlers bolt on sliders so much less than say Stubbs bolt ons?
Why are 4crawlers bolt on sliders so much less than say Stubbs bolt ons?
Last edited by Robinhood150; Jan 4, 2004 at 12:56 AM.
#22
Mine are made out of 1/4" thick 1.5"x1.5" square tubing, and were very easy to make. They are welded to the frame using 1/4" 3.5"x3.5" plates at an angle to the frame. Here's the pics on my website: http://www.toyota-4runners.com/rock-sliders.html
Chris
Chris
#26
This is my Daily driver, I really like them, and no I would not go back. To give you a idea of the rear flex, I could put one rear tire on a stock 4Runners hood, with all 3 of my tires on the ground
..
I really like it
..... Doing my SAS ATM, should be done like the 18th...
..I really like it
..... Doing my SAS ATM, should be done like the 18th...
#27
Re: few slider questions
Originally posted by r854rnr
ok, I'm looking to get rid of my dumb running boards and get some sliders in their place. My first inclination is that I want square tubing and bolted to the frame (not welded).
My questions are:
what "features" do you people prefer in your sliders and why?
What material specifics are you peopl using? (steel thickness, shape, diameter...)
what mystakes have you found in previous designs?
Do you people prefer welding vs. bolting? I remember reading something about having appropriate suports on top and/or bottom of the frame where they attach or the frame might bend, is this true?
any other input you can send!
ok, I'm looking to get rid of my dumb running boards and get some sliders in their place. My first inclination is that I want square tubing and bolted to the frame (not welded).
My questions are:
what "features" do you people prefer in your sliders and why?
What material specifics are you peopl using? (steel thickness, shape, diameter...)
what mystakes have you found in previous designs?
Do you people prefer welding vs. bolting? I remember reading something about having appropriate suports on top and/or bottom of the frame where they attach or the frame might bend, is this true?
any other input you can send!
Some key points .120 wall thickness on steel min!
min tube dia 1.5in I recomend 1.75in
4 mounts are ideal 3 will get you by and anything less you might as well have smitty builts.
Either use a big flat plate on the frame 4x4in or a piece of angle that grabs the bottom of the frame and face of it.
Weld on IMO is better. Done right it will be fine for the life of the truck. and painted afterwards right and rust should never be a problem.
Bolt on problems I have seen.
Comes loose
Cause rust after rubbing the frame.
Squeaks
Rattles.
No one ever takes them off again cause they are a paint to remove.
Any questions ask away!
#28
Originally posted by Robinhood150
Even if it bolts to a big ol' plate on the other side of the frame, with sleeves through the frame? The plate distributes the stress quite nicely I'd imagine. A properly designed bolt-on will distribute the forces to as much of the frame as possible. snip
Even if it bolts to a big ol' plate on the other side of the frame, with sleeves through the frame? The plate distributes the stress quite nicely I'd imagine. A properly designed bolt-on will distribute the forces to as much of the frame as possible. snip
That would definitly work very well and distribute stress better.
Anyway, I think discussing the strength of weld on Vs bolt-on is an excercise in futility because if designed properly, neither will fail, something else is going to fail long before the sliders will. snip
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