Fan Clutch
#1
Fan Clutch
Well i think my fan clutch is going out today i was driving for about a hour then i got home for about 10 mins start my truck and hear this noise sounds like a light grinding sound at 3000 rpms and up i was like wtf soo i need to know if its that or something else and where is a good place to get one and is it a easy thing to do it runs fine i have 167k on it and the valves are ticking pretty loud is it ok for it to be like that every thing is original parts
Last edited by Elton; Oct 4, 2005 at 06:40 PM.
#2
RPM shouldn't have anything to do with the fan clutch because it's not operated by engine speed. It is operated by engine temperature. Symptoms of a bad fan clutch are overheating, and running all the time. I will assume it's not overheating since you made no mention of engine temperatures. You can tell if it's locked up and on all the time by spinning the fan with the engine off and cold. If it doesn't spin, the fan clutch is bad. It's not too difficult to change it out. You can get a new one at most any parts house like NAPA or AutoZone.
#4
the fan clutch could very well be be bad at that mileage. however, the fan should spin all the time...just not always with much force.
to test the fan clutch, tie a pieces of kite string around it and tie the other end to something else. when the engine is cold, the string should be able to stop the fan from turning. when the engine is hot, the fan should break the string.
you usually can just replace the fluid in it, if you want. there is a write-up on some website...i forget the url at the moment, but if you do a search on this forum for it, i and others have posted it in the past.
having said all that, the sound you describe is often from the bearing in the power steering idlery pulley going bad. that bearing costs less than $10 and takes about 20 minutes to replace. (if you do a seach on this forum, i'm sure you will find the bearing part number...don't remember it offhand...and an explanation of how to replace it. (just pull off the idler pulley and pop off the little cap...pound or pry the old bearing out and put the new one in...might have to drive it with a rubber mallot or something.)
you can check for that by running the engine with the power steering belt off and see if the noise goes away. if it does, it is either that bearing or the one in the power steering pump...seems like usually it is the idler bearing, though.
EDIT: oh yeah, your valves prolly need to be adjusted. there is also a write-up out there on how to do that.i don't remember that link offhand either, but if you do a search for 22RE valve adjust or something like that, i'm sure you'll find it. you may also need new valve adjuster screws (if your have an hourglass wear pattern on the bottom). adjusting the valves and replacing the valve adjuter studs (or screws, same thing) is pretty easy.
22REs do tend to have noisy top-ends, though. even when there is nothing wrong.
to test the fan clutch, tie a pieces of kite string around it and tie the other end to something else. when the engine is cold, the string should be able to stop the fan from turning. when the engine is hot, the fan should break the string.
you usually can just replace the fluid in it, if you want. there is a write-up on some website...i forget the url at the moment, but if you do a search on this forum for it, i and others have posted it in the past.
having said all that, the sound you describe is often from the bearing in the power steering idlery pulley going bad. that bearing costs less than $10 and takes about 20 minutes to replace. (if you do a seach on this forum, i'm sure you will find the bearing part number...don't remember it offhand...and an explanation of how to replace it. (just pull off the idler pulley and pop off the little cap...pound or pry the old bearing out and put the new one in...might have to drive it with a rubber mallot or something.)
you can check for that by running the engine with the power steering belt off and see if the noise goes away. if it does, it is either that bearing or the one in the power steering pump...seems like usually it is the idler bearing, though.
EDIT: oh yeah, your valves prolly need to be adjusted. there is also a write-up out there on how to do that.i don't remember that link offhand either, but if you do a search for 22RE valve adjust or something like that, i'm sure you'll find it. you may also need new valve adjuster screws (if your have an hourglass wear pattern on the bottom). adjusting the valves and replacing the valve adjuter studs (or screws, same thing) is pretty easy.
22REs do tend to have noisy top-ends, though. even when there is nothing wrong.
Last edited by LittleRedToyota; Oct 4, 2005 at 09:28 PM.
#5
one other possibility...given the RPM level it happens at and the mileage...is the timing chain guides are munched and the sound you are hearing is the chain slapping against the t-chain cover.
pull the valve cover and shine a flashlight down the front of the engine see if the guides are still there and in one piece. there is a great writeup on www.4crawler.com. do a searhc for 22RE timing chain and you'll find the link and all kinds of other info.
pull the valve cover and shine a flashlight down the front of the engine see if the guides are still there and in one piece. there is a great writeup on www.4crawler.com. do a searhc for 22RE timing chain and you'll find the link and all kinds of other info.
#7
Check the idler/tensioner pullies for the PS and AC. My PS idler/tensioner pulley bearing siezed and made this very bad grinding sound. Scared the hell out of me as I thought I had no oil in the truck and the engine was just grinding. The bearing is replaceble if you can find one (I think Roger Brown has the p/n on his site).
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#9
will i went to the stealership to have them look at it turns out the brackets bolts worked them self lose and where rubing so that fixed it for 30 bucks and get this the will change my timeing chain for $1200 i was :
they told me my timeing guides are going soo all have to find someone to help me with that some time
they told me my timeing guides are going soo all have to find someone to help me with that some time
Last edited by Elton; Oct 5, 2005 at 05:33 PM.
#10
t-chain is a DIY job if you want to. don't let it go too long. eventually after the driver's side guide gets munched, the t-chain will eat through the t-chain cover and into a water jacket...then all of your coolant ends up in your oil pan...not good.
you can get a kit from www.engnblr.com (in portland) for about $60. (i recommend the one with the steel back driver's side guide.)
it will take you prolly about 10 hours to do it (doing it for the first time).
here is a great step-by-step write-up on how:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml
here is another:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timingchain/
also, search this forum...and the "Early Toyota Trucks" forum on 4x4wire.com for lots of threads about doing this job.
btw, here is the URL for the write-up on adjusting your valves:
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/22rvalves/
(finally back at my own computer so i have access to by bookmarked links again).
you can get a kit from www.engnblr.com (in portland) for about $60. (i recommend the one with the steel back driver's side guide.)
it will take you prolly about 10 hours to do it (doing it for the first time).
here is a great step-by-step write-up on how:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml
here is another:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timingchain/
also, search this forum...and the "Early Toyota Trucks" forum on 4x4wire.com for lots of threads about doing this job.
btw, here is the URL for the write-up on adjusting your valves:
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/22rvalves/
(finally back at my own computer so i have access to by bookmarked links again).
#13
will now when i start it it will run like crap and would feel like ur trying to take off in 3rd from a dead stop but if u keep it reved up to 4grand for a few secs it will run fine
Last edited by Elton; Oct 8, 2005 at 04:27 PM.
#15
ok lets see here well when the motor is warm when i go to the store or something for 5 or 10 mins come out and leave it well just run awfall till i rev it up witch is makin me think its the fuel filter
#16
Does it do this all the time or just cold? I had a similar problem but it happened all the time. The truck would not idle but would run at high RPM alright. Turned out to be a crack/leak in the air intake tubing. So the AFM was telling the computer one thing but the engine was getting something entirely different. Could be that your tubing was left loose or some rubber cracked during the repair. Worth a look anyways.
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