It is my understanding that you use anti-seize in just about every case where you have to apply precise torque; that way the stud is lubricated and the pressure/torque is applied uniformly and evenly. I always use anti-seize whenever I am torquing something down, whether it is a spark plug or a lug nut, and I use whatever the specified value is. Going to high can cause problems (such as spark plug going in to far and not getting optimum combustion, warping rotors, etc).

~Bill

 

I meant it coming with the O2 sensors.

 

I had the same problem with my 96, When i was replacing the clutch every nut and bolt came out perfectly, except that damn last exhause collector nut. It started to get tight, so i stopped and lubed it up good, then snap!. I tried heat, I tried PB blaster, Vise Grips, I even tried welding a nut to it twice... it still just sat there laughing at me... I finally drilled it out, and used a Helicoil to put in the new stud... I almost with the a nut and bolt, but like the stock look better, so i spent a whole day just getting the helicoil in.

The stud that broke was the one closest to the frame rail, so there isn't any room for a drill, I had to get a 90 degree drill to do it...

But all is done, and i'm happy that I now have a new clutch, and my exhaust looks stock.

 

Have you guys tried loosening all of the nuts first instead of taking them off one at a time? I have found that for a lot of things, the last nut tends to get more load on it than the rest and that by just loosening them all a little at first really helps.

PBlaster definitely kicks ass.

 

In my case all the nuts were loosend to begin with... so this really didn't have anything to do with that, unfortunately.....

 

Mine was the one closest to the motor...