Engine Swap 2.7 to 3.4 - Need info ASAP
#1
Hello,
I am in need for help quick. I need to decide this coming week on getting a 3.4 engine for a possible swap on my 2.7 4Runner.
Here is the scoop;
I have a 1996, 2.7, 4x4, 5 Speed, 4Runner, ~124K miles. I love it but the weak 4 Cly 2.7 engine.
Questions:
- Have you heard of people that did an engine swap 2.4 X 3.4?
- What parts do I need?
o Engine mounts
o Computer
o Engine and associate parts (air box, cables, etc.)
o I almost sure I need the transmission and xcase too.
How hard is this swap? Plug and play?
Will the 4Runner still be reliable as a Toyota? Or things can start to go wrong?
Thanks,
-JACK
p.s. Sorry it there are other posts on this swap. I will double check my search.
I am in need for help quick. I need to decide this coming week on getting a 3.4 engine for a possible swap on my 2.7 4Runner.
Here is the scoop;
I have a 1996, 2.7, 4x4, 5 Speed, 4Runner, ~124K miles. I love it but the weak 4 Cly 2.7 engine.
Questions:
- Have you heard of people that did an engine swap 2.4 X 3.4?
- What parts do I need?
o Engine mounts
o Computer
o Engine and associate parts (air box, cables, etc.)
o I almost sure I need the transmission and xcase too.
How hard is this swap? Plug and play?
Will the 4Runner still be reliable as a Toyota? Or things can start to go wrong?
Thanks,
-JACK
p.s. Sorry it there are other posts on this swap. I will double check my search.
Last edited by jacksilb; Nov 14, 2003 at 10:03 PM.
#2
i dont think i have ever heard of anyone doing this before.
im sure it would be as easy as u think with plug and play. just computer and maybe tranny, im not really sure. all the motor mounts and everything should already be setup in the engine bay for u to just swap it right in there
also, if u are looking for an engine and tranny, i just found one on tacoma territory, so go do a search over ther in the for sale section, i think he wanted 400 for the engine and 400 for the tranny
-Casey
im sure it would be as easy as u think with plug and play. just computer and maybe tranny, im not really sure. all the motor mounts and everything should already be setup in the engine bay for u to just swap it right in there
also, if u are looking for an engine and tranny, i just found one on tacoma territory, so go do a search over ther in the for sale section, i think he wanted 400 for the engine and 400 for the tranny
-Casey
#3
> wanted 400 for the engine and 400 for the tranny
This is good.
I would imagine that Toyota left almost all ready for both engines (standardization), but when it sounds too easy you have to think twice.
Thanks for the reply.
-JACK
This is good.
I would imagine that Toyota left almost all ready for both engines (standardization), but when it sounds too easy you have to think twice.
Thanks for the reply.
-JACK
Last edited by jacksilb; Nov 14, 2003 at 10:31 PM.
#6
It shouldn't be that hard unless there are parts of the engine harness missing/extra from one to the next. I would try to get an engine that matches the version 4runner you have (so if you have a 1996 then get a 3.4L out of a 96-98 tacoma or 4runner). The computers may be the same but verify this with the dealer....if they are the same then it could be very easy....if they are different then it could be a serious headache. Make sure to get as much of the engine and electrical system as you can (all the way down to the airbox...yes it is different too!).
My hats off to ya if you go through with it.
We want pics too!
My hats off to ya if you go through with it.
We want pics too!
#7
Originally posted by Nolan
how are you going to pass smog and keep it legal?
how are you going to pass smog and keep it legal?
Any clue where I can get the information? Is DMV any help?
I would like to believe that if I get a newer engine and associated hardware it would be cleaner. That DMV would be happy. But, logic not always makes sense on situations like this.
The ultimate goal for this 4Runner it be transported to Chile and left in Brazil. I will explore South America for a bit, and leave it in Brazil.
So if the smog will be an issue, I need to make sure I smog my 4Runner before the engine swap then make the swap, then take it to my dreamed adventure. I need to check on the legal issues.
How is that as a taste of risk and adventure?
You can follow my plans at http://www.4wdtrips.net/forum/?f=9&m=133
Thanks for the reply.
-JACK
Last edited by jacksilb; Nov 15, 2003 at 08:38 PM.
Trending Topics
#8
Originally posted by wilddave
why not supercharge your 2.7? It would cost a little more up front (but probly cheaper labor), but would probably be more reliable as long as you don't get greedy with the boost.
just my .02,
dave
why not supercharge your 2.7? It would cost a little more up front (but probly cheaper labor), but would probably be more reliable as long as you don't get greedy with the boost.
just my .02,
dave
I would still have a 124K miles engine.
With the swap I can have a newer engine and transmission and in the future supercharger it.
I hope this make sense.
-Jack
#9
Originally posted by MTL_4Runner
It shouldn't be that hard unless there are parts of the engine harness missing/extra from one to the next. I would try to get an engine that matches the version 4Runner you have (so if you have a 1996 then get a 3.4L out of a 96-98 tacoma or 4runner). The computers may be the same but verify this with the dealer....if they are the same then it could be very easy....if they are different then it could be a serious headache. Make sure to get as much of the engine and electrical system as you can (all the way down to the airbox...yes it is different too!).
My hats off to ya if you go through with it.
We want pics too!
It shouldn't be that hard unless there are parts of the engine harness missing/extra from one to the next. I would try to get an engine that matches the version 4Runner you have (so if you have a 1996 then get a 3.4L out of a 96-98 tacoma or 4runner). The computers may be the same but verify this with the dealer....if they are the same then it could be very easy....if they are different then it could be a serious headache. Make sure to get as much of the engine and electrical system as you can (all the way down to the airbox...yes it is different too!).
My hats off to ya if you go through with it.
We want pics too!
Good points.
I need to get the engine and computer together.
I would buy the whole thing from a rollover. Engine, the computer, distributor, wires, the harness, airbox, etc.
I need to make a decision this week since I may found the parts that will work for me.
I hope people in this Forum can continue to help me so I can take the decision.
Thanks,
-JACK
Last edited by jacksilb; Nov 15, 2003 at 09:06 PM.
#10
Hello,
I guess nobody in this Forum did this kind of swap before.
Hey, where can I get CARB information for engine swaps? What is legal what is not?
e.g., 1996 4Runner 4 cly 2.7 for an engine 6 cyl 3.4 (year ~ 2000+)?
Thanks,
-JACK
I guess nobody in this Forum did this kind of swap before.
Hey, where can I get CARB information for engine swaps? What is legal what is not?
e.g., 1996 4Runner 4 cly 2.7 for an engine 6 cyl 3.4 (year ~ 2000+)?
Thanks,
-JACK
#12
Originally posted by Vato Loco
I'm not sure which forum member had the 2.7 TRD Supercharger, but they said it was not worth the money at all, spend your money else where.
I'm not sure which forum member had the 2.7 TRD Supercharger, but they said it was not worth the money at all, spend your money else where.
-Casey
#14
Originally posted by Vato Loco
I'm not sure which forum member had the 2.7 TRD Supercharger, but they said it was not worth the money at all, spend your money else where.
I'm not sure which forum member had the 2.7 TRD Supercharger, but they said it was not worth the money at all, spend your money else where.
Let me clarify what I mean here.
When passing on a two way road/highway time is critical. If you have made a mistake you have no way to recover or push a bit more of the engine since you are probably already pushing it close to its limit during the passing, foot to the metal.
It takes a looong time and high RPM to get it going to pass slower traffic, i.e, quick reach to 70+ from a slower speed lets say 50 when you are behind a truck.
Don't try passing going up hill. You will put your life and the passenger of your 4Runner in risk.
I have been driving my 1996 4Runner since new, it has now 125K miles. Drove from Pittsburgh, PA to Orlando Florida, all around PA, lots going to D.C., lots of real snow driving, ice, lots around California from south to north CA several times. Some Baja California too. Lots of 4WD.
Two way roads are my nightmare. Try driving 395 at night and you will see what I mean. Well, lets not even talk about driving in two ways roads in Mexico. That don't need comments.
-JACK
Last edited by jacksilb; Nov 18, 2003 at 03:02 PM.
#15
Originally posted by jacksilb
I believe that the 2.7 engine is very reliable but Toyota missed something. It is almost unsafe to drive the 4Runner with this engine. I am not talking about fun, I am really talking about almost unsafe.
Let me clarify what I mean here.
When passing on a two way road/highway time is critical. If you have made a mistake you have no way to recover or push a bit more of the engine since you are probably already pushing it close to its limit during the passing, foot to the metal.
It takes a looong time and high RPM to get it going to pass slower traffic, i.e, quick reach to 70+ from a slower speed lets say 50 when you are behind a truck.
Don't try passing going up hill. You will put your life and the passenger of your 4Runner in risk.
I have been driving my 1996 4Runner since new, it has now 125K miles. Drove from Pittsburgh, PA to Orlando Florida, all around PA, lots going to D.C., lots of real snow driving, ice, lots around California from south to north CA several times. Some Baja California too. Lots of 4WD.
Two way roads are my nightmare. Try driving 395 at night and you will see what I mean. Well, lets not even talk about driving in two ways roads in Mexico. That don't need comments.
-JACK
I believe that the 2.7 engine is very reliable but Toyota missed something. It is almost unsafe to drive the 4Runner with this engine. I am not talking about fun, I am really talking about almost unsafe.
Let me clarify what I mean here.
When passing on a two way road/highway time is critical. If you have made a mistake you have no way to recover or push a bit more of the engine since you are probably already pushing it close to its limit during the passing, foot to the metal.
It takes a looong time and high RPM to get it going to pass slower traffic, i.e, quick reach to 70+ from a slower speed lets say 50 when you are behind a truck.
Don't try passing going up hill. You will put your life and the passenger of your 4Runner in risk.
I have been driving my 1996 4Runner since new, it has now 125K miles. Drove from Pittsburgh, PA to Orlando Florida, all around PA, lots going to D.C., lots of real snow driving, ice, lots around California from south to north CA several times. Some Baja California too. Lots of 4WD.
Two way roads are my nightmare. Try driving 395 at night and you will see what I mean. Well, lets not even talk about driving in two ways roads in Mexico. That don't need comments.
-JACK
Now with the 285's and 5.29's I can do the same thing.
The 265/75/16 you have you need 4.88's but I would go 5.29 and go back to 285's.
It's all in the gearing.
#16
Originally posted by jacksilb
It takes a looong time and high RPM to get it going to pass slower traffic, i.e, quick reach to 70+ from a slower speed lets say 50 when you are behind a truck.
It takes a looong time and high RPM to get it going to pass slower traffic, i.e, quick reach to 70+ from a slower speed lets say 50 when you are behind a truck.
#17
Originally posted by sschaefer3
5.29 Ring & Pinion
5.29 Ring & Pinion
I saw it coming. I knew someone smart like you would show up.
Well, I mentioned that since new (no mods, no new tires) the 4Runner was weak. The problems is that weak here may means different things for different people.
I felt it was underpowered before. I realize that the taller tires contribute to it now, but the mods I have give me back the power I am loosing on the tires (I like to believe so).
K&N supercharger filter, high flow exhaust, Downey headers.
I understand that with the gear you mentioned you can't really cruise at 80 MPH. Is this correct?
This is a good discussion.
Thanks,
-JACK
Last edited by jacksilb; Nov 18, 2003 at 03:40 PM.
#18
Since nobody jumped with the CARB answer I decided to do some research.
I called CARB - California Air Resources Board
http://www.arb.ca.gov/
They were a kind of nice on the phone, not much technical.
Basic rules verbally given.
1 - The swap need to be for the same year or newer.
2 - All the swapped engine emission control parts need to make to the swap. I am not sure how they would enforce this. Because we all will need to change something one day.
3 - The new engine needs to be California Certified. Not clear on this. I believe all Toyotas sold in the US are. Or just need to get to a referee (?). The person was not very clear.
4 - Same class of vehicle. Passenger car <-> Passenger car engine.
I asked for a document on the web. They could not point me to one.
I asked about the 4 cyl getting a 6cyl. It does not seem to be an issue. The problem is where are the official rules. You know how is the I was told so on the phone deal goes...
They gave me the referee phone number. Someone that you need to schedule an appointment to legalize your swap.
I called them. Same kind of loose rules was given including the 4 cyl vs. 6cyl. Does not seem to be a problem. This is good since these are the guys I need to give me the OK.
Were the rules specific for you?
So I went a bit more on my search.
I found the Department of Consumer Affairs
Bureau of Automotive Repair.
http://www.autorepair.ca.gov/
Their I found Engine Replacement and Rebuilding Guidelines
http://www.autorepair.ca.gov/StdPage...s-Jan_1994.htm
BELLOW ARE THE OFFICIAL RULES. ENJOY IT. Please notice that they call it guidelines not law.
Please let me know if you see a problem with my swap.
Overview
Engine changes continue to present problems and challenges to car owners and technicians. Here are some tips to keep you and your customers on the straight and narrow.
Our recommendation is to rebuild and reinstall the original engine, transmission, and emission control configuration.
When rebuilding an engine, it must be rebuilt to the original equipment specifications. However, if you do decide to change the engine, these guidelines must be observed to ensure that the vehicle will be eligible for smog certification or registration.
Remember, these are guidelines for performing engine changes -- not certification procedures. All exhaust emission controlled vehicles with engine changes must be inspected by an official referee station and must have a Bureau of Automotive Repair (BAR) Vehicle Identification Label affixed to the doorpost.
Remember also, state and federal anti-tampering laws generally prohibit any modification to the vehicle's original emission control system configuration as certified by the manufacturer. And, Section 3362.1 of the California Code of Regulations prohibits any engine change that degrades the effectiveness of a vehicle's emission control system.
California Certification
A federal Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) certified (federal or 49-state) engine cannot be used in a vehicle that was originally certified for California.
Certification Standards
Make sure the engine and emission control configuration on exhaust - controlled vehicles are certified to the year of the vehicle or newer, and to the same or a more stringent new vehicle certification standard.
Classification
Don't mix engine and vehicle classifications which will degrade the emissions certification standards. For example, a heavy-duty engine cannot be installed in a light-duty exhaust-controlled chassis even if they have the same displacement. Non-emissions controlled power plants such as industrial or off-road-use-only engines may not be placed in any exhaust-controlled vehicle.
Computer Controls
If a computer-controlled engine is installed in a non-computerized vehicle, the "CHECK ENGINE" light, the Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) diagnostic link, and all sensors, switches, and wiring harnesses needed to make the system fully functional must also be installed.
Emission Control Configuration
Mixing and matching emission control system components could cause problems and is generally not allowed. Engine and emission control systems must be in an engine-chassis configuration certified by the California Air Resources Board (ARB) or U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). The engine must meet or exceed the requirements for the year and class of vehicle in which it is installed.
Emission Warranty
Voiding the vehicle manufacturer's emission warranty is not allowed.
Engine Modifications
No internal or external engine modifications (cams, pistons, intakes, etc.) may be performed unless the parts are ARB-exempted or EPA-certified for use in the installed engine. Use the database on this site to search for aftermarket parts covered by ARB Executive Orders.
Original Equipment
The installed engine and host chassis must retain all of their original emission control equipment. Diesel-to-gasoline conversions must have all gasoline engine and chassis emission control systems installed (such as fillpipe restrictor, catalytic converter and evaporative emission system).
Smog Inspection
These vehicles must pass a complete smog inspection (visual, functional, and tailpipe).
I called CARB - California Air Resources Board
http://www.arb.ca.gov/
They were a kind of nice on the phone, not much technical.
Basic rules verbally given.
1 - The swap need to be for the same year or newer.
2 - All the swapped engine emission control parts need to make to the swap. I am not sure how they would enforce this. Because we all will need to change something one day.
3 - The new engine needs to be California Certified. Not clear on this. I believe all Toyotas sold in the US are. Or just need to get to a referee (?). The person was not very clear.
4 - Same class of vehicle. Passenger car <-> Passenger car engine.
I asked for a document on the web. They could not point me to one.
I asked about the 4 cyl getting a 6cyl. It does not seem to be an issue. The problem is where are the official rules. You know how is the I was told so on the phone deal goes...
They gave me the referee phone number. Someone that you need to schedule an appointment to legalize your swap.
I called them. Same kind of loose rules was given including the 4 cyl vs. 6cyl. Does not seem to be a problem. This is good since these are the guys I need to give me the OK.
Were the rules specific for you?
So I went a bit more on my search.
I found the Department of Consumer Affairs
Bureau of Automotive Repair.
http://www.autorepair.ca.gov/
Their I found Engine Replacement and Rebuilding Guidelines
http://www.autorepair.ca.gov/StdPage...s-Jan_1994.htm
BELLOW ARE THE OFFICIAL RULES. ENJOY IT. Please notice that they call it guidelines not law.
Please let me know if you see a problem with my swap.
Overview
Engine changes continue to present problems and challenges to car owners and technicians. Here are some tips to keep you and your customers on the straight and narrow.
Our recommendation is to rebuild and reinstall the original engine, transmission, and emission control configuration.
When rebuilding an engine, it must be rebuilt to the original equipment specifications. However, if you do decide to change the engine, these guidelines must be observed to ensure that the vehicle will be eligible for smog certification or registration.
Remember, these are guidelines for performing engine changes -- not certification procedures. All exhaust emission controlled vehicles with engine changes must be inspected by an official referee station and must have a Bureau of Automotive Repair (BAR) Vehicle Identification Label affixed to the doorpost.
Remember also, state and federal anti-tampering laws generally prohibit any modification to the vehicle's original emission control system configuration as certified by the manufacturer. And, Section 3362.1 of the California Code of Regulations prohibits any engine change that degrades the effectiveness of a vehicle's emission control system.
California Certification
A federal Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) certified (federal or 49-state) engine cannot be used in a vehicle that was originally certified for California.
Certification Standards
Make sure the engine and emission control configuration on exhaust - controlled vehicles are certified to the year of the vehicle or newer, and to the same or a more stringent new vehicle certification standard.
Classification
Don't mix engine and vehicle classifications which will degrade the emissions certification standards. For example, a heavy-duty engine cannot be installed in a light-duty exhaust-controlled chassis even if they have the same displacement. Non-emissions controlled power plants such as industrial or off-road-use-only engines may not be placed in any exhaust-controlled vehicle.
Computer Controls
If a computer-controlled engine is installed in a non-computerized vehicle, the "CHECK ENGINE" light, the Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) diagnostic link, and all sensors, switches, and wiring harnesses needed to make the system fully functional must also be installed.
Emission Control Configuration
Mixing and matching emission control system components could cause problems and is generally not allowed. Engine and emission control systems must be in an engine-chassis configuration certified by the California Air Resources Board (ARB) or U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). The engine must meet or exceed the requirements for the year and class of vehicle in which it is installed.
Emission Warranty
Voiding the vehicle manufacturer's emission warranty is not allowed.
Engine Modifications
No internal or external engine modifications (cams, pistons, intakes, etc.) may be performed unless the parts are ARB-exempted or EPA-certified for use in the installed engine. Use the database on this site to search for aftermarket parts covered by ARB Executive Orders.
Original Equipment
The installed engine and host chassis must retain all of their original emission control equipment. Diesel-to-gasoline conversions must have all gasoline engine and chassis emission control systems installed (such as fillpipe restrictor, catalytic converter and evaporative emission system).
Smog Inspection
These vehicles must pass a complete smog inspection (visual, functional, and tailpipe).
Last edited by jacksilb; Nov 18, 2003 at 03:59 PM.
#19
More Questions: Help will be appreciated.
- Are the 4Runner and Tacoma on the same class?
Both trucks? Both passenger cars? I almost sure the Tacoma is classified as a Truck. But I have not seen it spelled out on the license as the real trucks.
- Anybody know if any difference in the engine compartment between a 4Runner 6cyl and Tacoma 6cyl about the same year.
ex: air box location, hoses and wires, etc.
- I believe the engines are exact the same right?
Thanks,
-JACK
- Are the 4Runner and Tacoma on the same class?
Both trucks? Both passenger cars? I almost sure the Tacoma is classified as a Truck. But I have not seen it spelled out on the license as the real trucks.
- Anybody know if any difference in the engine compartment between a 4Runner 6cyl and Tacoma 6cyl about the same year.
ex: air box location, hoses and wires, etc.
- I believe the engines are exact the same right?
Thanks,
-JACK
Last edited by jacksilb; Nov 18, 2003 at 04:04 PM.
#20
Originally posted by jacksilb
I felt it was underpowered before. I realize that the taller tires contribute to it now, but the mods I have give me back the power I am loosing on the tires (I like to believe so).
K&N supercharger filter, high flow exhaust, Downey headers.
I felt it was underpowered before. I realize that the taller tires contribute to it now, but the mods I have give me back the power I am loosing on the tires (I like to believe so).
K&N supercharger filter, high flow exhaust, Downey headers.
Originally posted by jacksilb
I understand that with the gear you mentioned you can't really cruise at 80 MPH. Is this correct?
I understand that with the gear you mentioned you can't really cruise at 80 MPH. Is this correct?
This is only 200 RPM over stock.
I have driven to Fresno from Phoenix and to Colorado Twice, also to San Diego. No problems.



and put someone elses name.