Ok I will be getting the FAL 210 soon my question is what do you do with the fan pully. I mean why leave it on. With it still on the engine we are no getting the full potential of removing the clutch fan. Also how hard is it to do the wiring.

 

You have to leave the fan pulley on there because it is how the engine spins the water pump. Without the waterpump it doesn't matter whether you have a clutch fan or an electric fan since the coolant won't be circulated through the radiator. The wiring for the fan controllers is easy. You have a constant 12V(to battery +)
switched 12V(to ignition switch) ground (to chassis-) and the A/C override that turns fan on when air conditioning compressor is switched on, and the output wires (to fan +). All in all it is pretty simple.

 

I was worried the most about the wiring when I switched and in the end it was the easiest part.

 

Whatever you do, just make sure you have 2 washers on each of the studs after the fan is removed, and you go to tighten down the pulley with the stock nuts. Otherwise you will strip out and possibly break the studs.

In other words, you are compensating for the thickness of the fan piece that is now missing.

 

The installation is no problem for me and my friend I read and read and read the how to's on the web so I know I will not run into any major hassels. I am just worried about the wiring and the mounting of the fan to the radiator since my Tundra has a bigger engine bay as to the smaller 4Runner.

 

It wont pose a problem. In fact, it will be easier for you. Be sure to have a hacksaw handy for cutting the FAL supplied mounting brackets.

 

Christian:

Did you move? I thought you lived in N. Hades....:beach:

 

<--------- Just for you Paul!

 

Yes you can remove the fan pulley completely.

You will notice that the other belts run accross the fan pulley and when you remove it the belts will contact the fan bracket support.

What one guy did is take the fan braket support off of the engine and had a machine shop shave down the portion that holds the bearing for the fan pulley so the braket is completely flat on the front. Then you will have to get resized belts that are shorter since they no longer have to wrap around the fan pulley since they will be going straight from the crank pulley to the accessory they are driving.

The fan pulley does not drive the water pump. The water pump is not connected in any way to the belts on the outside of the engine. The water pump is hidden behind the timing belt cover and is driven by the timing belt.

Gadget

www.GadgetOnline.com

 

Anyone know who this guy is???

 

Yeah, same guy that runs this!

http://www.urdusa.com/

 

If you are asking who made the post, that was me....

If you are asking who did that modification, he used a log on name "SailBob" I think.

Gadget

 

I removed the studs on mine

and replaced them with some bolts the proper lenght. What's wrong with leaving the fake-waterpump pulley on there anyway? That just makes it an idler pulley, without the fan hanging off it the bearings will probably last a long time.

 

I would leave the the fake water pump on mine if I had one. LOL



My 3.4 is out of a 4runner that was in a front end collision. These fake pumps are expensive as you all know. So instead of replacing it, I would just leave it off and do a e-fan. I dont see any harm in leaving the fan bracket off. The only think I could think of is that the fake water pump helps aleviate some of the tension strain by runing the belt in a triangle instead of being run from right off of the crank pulley. Does anyone think that running the ps and alt directly would put to much strain on it? I dont think it would be an issue, but I just want to make sure. Thanks for the contact gadget and MTL.