Dual cat. converter 4runners
#41
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Will that allow my mileage and everything to return to normal and allow me to keep the single cat. setup?
I didn't realize that would work with this type of setup.
Fink
I didn't realize that would work with this type of setup.
Fink
#42
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I don't know about the mileage, I guess it depends on what is causing the poor mileage. The ad says "This device works on ALL current US spec Toyotas" so I'd give Gadget a call and ask.
#43
try to get mark (midiwall) back on this thread, he knows a lot, maybe see if he recommends a different ecu. i would think that that would work, getting an ecu from a very similar 4Runner without 2 cat. converters, but i don't know a lot about this stuff...
#44
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The simulator should work and put your mpg back to normal(assuming that that is what it causing it.) I know a lot of the people that use these simulators to completely get rid of the cat and they have no problem with it. The only downside to it is that if your mixture gets off later down the road then your ecu will not throw a code.
#45
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Yeah, I was waiting for midiwall to grace us with his knowledge, I mean this isn't anything urgent I can live with the bad mileage for awhile so I can figure out what is best and plan it out.
Sounds like swapping ECU's or using the O2 sensor simulator are the best ideas so far.
Fink
Sounds like swapping ECU's or using the O2 sensor simulator are the best ideas so far.
Fink
Last edited by Fink; 10-31-2005 at 08:53 PM.
#46
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Sorry Chris, I was pretty tied up yesterday.
Okay, so one thing that I think I'm still unclear about is the number of O2 sensors on a dual-cat'd system. Somewhere up above I talked about how the ECU would need a difference indicator in order to be able to say "yay/ney" to a sensor working right. So in theory I'd think that a dual-cat system would need 3 sensors (front for AF/R, then one between the front & rear cat, and one after the rear cat). Did we ever figure that out? The point being, is the ECU actually looking for a 3rd sensor somewhere?
Past that... Given that you're technically trying to run the truck as a single cat system, I would vote on swapping the ECU with one from a non-CA truck. The signal conditioner that's been talked about a couple of times is cool, but it still needs an O2 sensor installed - it's tweaking/conditioning the signal that's there, not replacing it. If the ECU is thinking that it's missing a signal, then this box will _not_ replace it.
Moving back to dual cats is an option of course, but my guess is that you would still have the problem since you're "just" adding a second cat, not another sensor.
One thing that we haven't considered is that the CA ECU is tuned "tighter" for O2 readings than a non-CA ECU. i.e., it's seeing a wider swing from the O2 sensor you have now, and that's what's causing it to throw a code. That could explain why you were fine for a while, then as the sensor "burned in", the swing got wider (which is normal) and now the ECU doesn't like it. This would be another reason to swap-in a non-CA ECU.
Oh, you asked about reprogramming the ECU you have... not a chance. I'd love to be able to do something with mine, but... sigh. I've never seen published hacks about Toyota ECU's.
Moving to a non-Toyota ECU (like the MegaSquirt) is a pretty big job. The MS is a great box with a TON of flexibility, but it's a task to get it running. You'll need the ignition add-on, and you'll have to keep the original ECU as well in order to handle the tranny (you're auto, right?).
So... I think I'd get ready to drop $150+ into a junked ECU from a non-CA truck.
Okay, so one thing that I think I'm still unclear about is the number of O2 sensors on a dual-cat'd system. Somewhere up above I talked about how the ECU would need a difference indicator in order to be able to say "yay/ney" to a sensor working right. So in theory I'd think that a dual-cat system would need 3 sensors (front for AF/R, then one between the front & rear cat, and one after the rear cat). Did we ever figure that out? The point being, is the ECU actually looking for a 3rd sensor somewhere?
Past that... Given that you're technically trying to run the truck as a single cat system, I would vote on swapping the ECU with one from a non-CA truck. The signal conditioner that's been talked about a couple of times is cool, but it still needs an O2 sensor installed - it's tweaking/conditioning the signal that's there, not replacing it. If the ECU is thinking that it's missing a signal, then this box will _not_ replace it.
Moving back to dual cats is an option of course, but my guess is that you would still have the problem since you're "just" adding a second cat, not another sensor.
One thing that we haven't considered is that the CA ECU is tuned "tighter" for O2 readings than a non-CA ECU. i.e., it's seeing a wider swing from the O2 sensor you have now, and that's what's causing it to throw a code. That could explain why you were fine for a while, then as the sensor "burned in", the swing got wider (which is normal) and now the ECU doesn't like it. This would be another reason to swap-in a non-CA ECU.
Oh, you asked about reprogramming the ECU you have... not a chance. I'd love to be able to do something with mine, but... sigh. I've never seen published hacks about Toyota ECU's.
Moving to a non-Toyota ECU (like the MegaSquirt) is a pretty big job. The MS is a great box with a TON of flexibility, but it's a task to get it running. You'll need the ignition add-on, and you'll have to keep the original ECU as well in order to handle the tranny (you're auto, right?).
So... I think I'd get ready to drop $150+ into a junked ECU from a non-CA truck.
Last edited by midiwall; 11-01-2005 at 06:13 AM.
#47
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Originally Posted by midiwall
So in theory I'd think that a dual-cat system would need 3 sensors (front for AF/R, then one between the front & rear cat, and one after the rear cat). Did we ever figure that out? The point being, is the ECU actually looking for a 3rd sensor somewhere?
#48
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Mine is the same as Mt. Goat's, sounds like I need to start digging around for a new ECU. I know NOTHING about these, do you think the salvage yard will be able to remove it for me or will I need to know how to do it ahead of time. Does it matter what the condition of the vehicle is in? As long as the actual ECU is in good shape?
Where the crap IS the ECU? LoL.
Help!
Any other suggestions are welcome, I won't be getting a new ECU til next week or maybe the week after.
Thanks guys!
Fink
Where the crap IS the ECU? LoL.
Help!
Any other suggestions are welcome, I won't be getting a new ECU til next week or maybe the week after.
Thanks guys!
Fink
#49
ecu is located behind passenger side kick panel, really easy to get to.
unscrew and remove the door sill thing, then remove the kick panel, and its right there behind it.
i've never removed one, but i would guess that its a couple screws and unplugging the main harness and you're good to go.
unscrew and remove the door sill thing, then remove the kick panel, and its right there behind it.
i've never removed one, but i would guess that its a couple screws and unplugging the main harness and you're good to go.
#50
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Originally Posted by midiwall
The signal conditioner that's been talked about a couple of times is cool, but it still needs an O2 sensor installed - it's tweaking/conditioning the signal that's there, not replacing it. If the ECU is thinking that it's missing a signal, then this box will _not_ replace it.
#51
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Originally Posted by 4x4Fink
I know NOTHING about these, do you think the salvage yard will be able to remove it for me or will I need to know how to do it ahead of time. Does it matter what the condition of the vehicle is in? As long as the actual ECU is in good shape?
Where the crap IS the ECU? LoL.
Where the crap IS the ECU? LoL.
In general, the condition of the vehicle doesn't matter - short of it having been through a fire.
The ECU is _behind_ the glove compartment. You have to pull the box to get to it. I have some pics and babble on my ECT mod page.
EDIT: Garrett's mentioned that the ECU is behind the kick panel... Be sure that we're talking about the same one, there are a couple of "ECU"s. My 96 4Runner has the one you'd need sitting behind the glove box, it's of course possible that your's is somewhere else. I'd wait for one more person to pop in with a deciding vote.
Originally Posted by mt_goat
Mark, is the only reason you didn't recommend the signal conditioner because of your theory that there needs to be 3 O2 sensors? Because at least on my 2001 that is not the case.
Last edited by midiwall; 11-01-2005 at 10:06 PM.
#52
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OK...recap.
I need to check with Gadget and ask him if the conditioner will solve my problem. Also, more than likely the ECU that I will be needing to switch out is behind the glove box?
Fink
I need to check with Gadget and ask him if the conditioner will solve my problem. Also, more than likely the ECU that I will be needing to switch out is behind the glove box?
Fink
#53
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Originally Posted by 4x4Fink
Also, more than likely the ECU that I will be needing to switch out is behind the glove box?
#54
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Originally Posted by midiwall
It wouldn't hurt... We'd get a clean look at what the ECU is trying to say.
Yeah, I thought about that, and that's the way it is in a single-cat system, but then I'm confused on how the ECU could determine the efficiency of each of two cats. You need a before & after snapshot for each cat to make the call. That tends to say that you'll need 3 sensors.
If the front O2 sensor was there for feeding the ECU A/FR info *and* to determine the efficency of the front cat, then that would mean the sensor would have to come _after_ the cat. And doing that would confuse the reading that the ECU needs to watch for a good A/FR.
Yeah, I thought about that, and that's the way it is in a single-cat system, but then I'm confused on how the ECU could determine the efficiency of each of two cats. You need a before & after snapshot for each cat to make the call. That tends to say that you'll need 3 sensors.
If the front O2 sensor was there for feeding the ECU A/FR info *and* to determine the efficency of the front cat, then that would mean the sensor would have to come _after_ the cat. And doing that would confuse the reading that the ECU needs to watch for a good A/FR.
4X4Fink---If I were you and wanted to keep running cats I would put a pair of these on:
http://www.car-sound.com/catalog/universal/430.aspx
I really don't know about what these guys are saying about the EXACT measurements of where the cats and O2 sensors are. I moved my second O2 sensor's position and never had a problem. I changed position of the first cat (installed headers) and never had a problem.
If you are tired of all this BS and want it stopped without buying more or different cats----Get the O2 simulator from Gadget:
http://www.urdusa.com/index.php?cPat...8f15abbf92558c
Install this and you will be done with P0420 codes. I ended up removing my cats for performance reasons and installed the URD O2 sim. Works like a champ.
Last edited by TRDOLMAN; 11-04-2005 at 08:25 PM.
#56
Originally Posted by midiwall
Yeup! The left kick panel is the 4WD and traction control; the right kick is the tranny; the ECU is behind the glove box.
#57
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Sweet, so it sounds like the 02 sensor simulator is the answer...awesome!
If everybody agrees that this simulator will work, score! I'll order it right now!
Thanks for the input guys as usual!
Fink
If everybody agrees that this simulator will work, score! I'll order it right now!
Thanks for the input guys as usual!
Fink
#58
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Originally Posted by 4x4Fink
Sweet, so it sounds like the 02 sensor simulator is the answer...awesome!
If everybody agrees that this simulator will work, score! I'll order it right now!
Thanks for the input guys as usual!
Fink
If everybody agrees that this simulator will work, score! I'll order it right now!
Thanks for the input guys as usual!
Fink
#59
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Well you probably won't need one, unless that engine was a California emissions spec engine.
But it sounds like this simulator will do the trick, I need some more verification before I drop the 100 bucks on it.
Fink
But it sounds like this simulator will do the trick, I need some more verification before I drop the 100 bucks on it.
Fink
#60
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Originally Posted by 4x4Fink
Well you probably won't need one, unless that engine was a California emissions spec engine.
But it sounds like this simulator will do the trick, I need some more verification before I drop the 100 bucks on it.
Fink
But it sounds like this simulator will do the trick, I need some more verification before I drop the 100 bucks on it.
Fink