mazaa

Not sure what am I doing wrong but I cannot get the TB to loop through everything, its a bit too tight?

rworegon

You are not doing anything wrong most likely. You are at what I call the four hands stage.

Generally, I start on the driver side and work counter-clockwise as the FSM suggests and can get it. Does your belt have paint marks for the RT (passenger side) and LT (driver side) cam marks? If so, I get those aligned on the cams and use soft clamps to hold them in place and then get the crank paint mark on the proper location. The belt is placed before the tensioner is bolted back in per the FSM.

Now, if the belt is too tight to get the belt under the upper idler I'll attach a wrench vertically to each cam bolt and bring them together toward the center of the engine just a skoosh to pull the slack out of the belt so it can be slipped under the idler. This generally works for me on a tight belt. Or, it you have a friend handy you can separate the wrenches and slip the belt over the crank gear. Or, you can remove the upper idler and press down on the pulley sitting on the belt while bolting it up....again this may take a second person to help.

mazaa

Ok the TB belt is on, I am about to pull the pin and put it through the 2 revolution test. The yellow paint marks are a bit off on the back plate and the cam pulleys, I have lined up the notches and they are very close.
https://flic.kr/p/nMAFjH

It took a bit of effort to get the belt to loop through, now the prime time to pull the pin, will be back in few and report back

https://flic.kr/p/nMAFjH
https://flic.kr/p/o4M5T4
https://flic.kr/p/nMATAM

rworegon

What did it take to get the belt on?

Awaiting two revolution report.....

Post pics of both cams and crank after the two revolutions, please if you can.

mazaa

The method you desribed above, lined up bottom, then pushed the middle with the bearing and bolted it up.

The news is not good, all marks seem to be off by the same amount, , what to do next

https://flic.kr/p/o4YSEq

rworegon

We are not worried about the paint marks on the belt now once it's on. It will be may revolutions before the white lines and cam marks line up.

Now focus on the etched marked on the cams and the alignment mark on the backing plate and the dimple on the inner portion of the crank gear and what looks like a pink tooth.

So, go clockwise until the crank mark lines (painted pink tooth with dimple it looks like) up to TDC mark on the oil pump then check the TDC marks on the cam to the backing plate.

Just curious, where is the crank TDC mark in relation to the photo in post 25.

mazaa

Sorry stupid me, I think we are OK

please confirm

https://flic.kr/p/nMBa4x

https://flic.kr/p/o56zjF

rworegon

How does the driver side cam mark and the crank look in person? From the pic they almost look off a tooth. Are they?

The passenger cam looks on.

And, none of this stupid me stuff. You are learning to do a rather detailed job.

mazaa

Well in person all three teeth are off by exactly the same amount, I had gone a bit further with my rotation then I needed to, if I stop when the pink dot is exactly on the arrow then the cam marks also lineup.
The yellow paint is off to the right by almost a tooth if not more on both cam pullies and gives a bad visual with the pictures.

Thank you for being my mentor for this job, I DO really appreciate it

I am going to start finishing up the rest and will keep you posted

rworegon

Excellent! Button 'er up!

Thanks and welcome...glad to do it. Hopefully, what I write is clearer than mud. It always a bit tricky doing this in the written form, but it keeps me in practice for when I actually do one. I'm checking out for the night. Will check in tomorrow.

BTW, do you do much wrenching on this or other rigs?

mazaa

Your feedback helped tremendously, and I also think the quick followups were the key. I could not get to 218 ft-lbs on the crank bolt, my homemade tool bent before I could hear the click, oh well I will finish her up tomorrow, back to work on my MTB:=)

I really love the outdoors and got this truck to build as an expedition rig & to be able to carry MTBs/Kayaks etc so it works into the system. I have always loved cars and came from a 6MT G35 to the 4runner, much higher and slower....but really started wrenching couple years ago as I hobby in my apartment's parking lot, it can be hard at times but I do like it and will continue to learn and wrench, plus I think being a engineer I naturally like to tinker with stuff

I will work on the truck after work tomorrow, and provide an update.

rworegon

You definitely need to get the crank bolt to the proper torque value. Stop by a Home Depot, etc. or most any hardware store and pick up a 3 ft x 1/4" thick x 1 1/2" wide piece of steel flat bar stock and make a new tool like you showed before. It's what I use and it does not bend.

You happened to catch me yesterday when I was on the site a lot.

Happy wrenchin'!

mazaa

Good evening,

I made the tool as prescribed, I drilled holes across it to cut up the smaller piece but then used a grinder to smooth out the edges as it was really sharp.

Heard the sweet click at 220 ft-lbs, still was surprised how much force it took..

Now back to the belts, the PS tensioner the fan etc, fill her up with distilled water/cleaner and fire her up....

I wont feel completely relieved until she is driving again but almost there, will keep you posted.

https://flic.kr/p/o5P12e
https://flic.kr/p/nNjo75

rworegon

Good evening back at you.
You're getting close now.

Hey! Did you steal my holder from the garage????? It also will work for holding the cams if you ever need to change those seals.

mazaa

If you were close by no need to steal but entice you to help me do the job with cold beer n pizza...worked great in the past and its worth a try:=)

BTW was tired and feel a sleep last night, about to jump back on it.

I got three belts that I need to google n figure out go where, I have pics of the old ones looped before I took them off

4PK 870, 4PK 1070 & 4PK1050

rworegon

Shouldn't be too hard to find what belt is what....can't remember off the top of my head.

We can thank member bugs1961 for the tool idea. Nice work!

rworegon

Bando brand belts

4PK 870 = AC
4PK 1070 = PS
4PK 1050 = ALT

Does this ring true?

mazaa

Yep all the belts are correct. I have the ALT belt on already, been struggling with the AC belt, and the PS also looks like a bit of a pita.

Almost there, I better finish the world longest running TB and WP job or it will start hurting my pride:=)

mazaa

The problem with the AC pulley is that adjustment bolt is not moving the pulley up or down and it is way to tight to get it on there

rworegon

Hmmm, let me put on the thinking cap...... And, go look at mine for a refresher.


The center bolt on the compressor pulley is slightly loose? It gets tightened after the belt is on and adjusted.

Pictures with bolts circled from another thread. It shows how to tension each belt.

The PS has one mounting bolt right behind the PS pulley and one on the adjustment bracket that must be slightly loose so the PS pump can pivot when the adjustment screw is used.