If you do just the boot, it may be OK, but you could really regret it as you end up changing the CV joint anyways. EVERYTHING you have to do to change a CV joint, you have to do to replace the boot. Why risk it? For just $80 you're good forever!

I agree with robinhood on everything except the time. I did the CV joint and brakes in 5 hours, and probably 2 of that was the brakes.

There's a guy who posts on here who rates jobs in "bananas". This is AT MOST a 2 banana (out of 5) job. It's been a little over a week, so I don't remember ALL the details, but here is how you do it:

Read these instructions completely first. Identify all the nuts and bolts you will be removing and spray them down liberally with PB Blaster or WD40.

Jack up the truck on the side with the bad CV joint and put a jackstand under the frame. Pull the jack out.

Loosen the six bolts that connect the CV joint to the diff. Have a friend stand on the brakes while you do this to keep the axle from turning.

Take the wheel off

Using a small flat screwdriver, pry off the axle cover (the domed piece on the end of the hub)

Undo the six acorn nuts holding the end of the hub. Behind these are flat washers wedge concentrics. Tap lightly on the edge of the hub to get them to pop out.

Using your small screwdriver again, remove the circlip on the end of the axle. Pushing the CV joint/axle outward from under the truck may help.

I removed the shock absorber (nut on top and nut and bolt on bottom). You might be able to undo the sway arm linkage instead, which might be a little easier if the shocks have been on a while.

Put the jack under the lower a-arm and jack as high as possible (to the bumpstop ideally)

Pull the halfshaft out. Since it will just be returned for your core charge, you don't have to be super careful with it.

Slide the new halfshaft in. Be careful not to compress or extend the CV joints. Run the splined part into the hub then get the bolted side up. You may need a prybar to help get it past the bolts. Watch the grease cover on the big end!

Reverse the procedure to put it back together be careful when tightening the small acorn nuts _ I overtightened one and broke it off

Pretty easy really

 

If you can get the halfshafts for $80 then go with that. Cleaning and regreasing is very messy and time consuming unless you have a parts washer. If you suspect dirt you will have to do a good job and dissasemble the tulip and bearings, and also buy the 2 new boot kits, might as well do both...

I think Robinhood's quote is about right. Depending on where you live (rust belt) and your experience you may suceed or not. I remember having to grind some the nuts on the cv/diff flange so they would release, and have fun with the cone washers using every trick there is, and then wrestling the CV axle out. I would also try pounding out a few of the cv/diff flange bolts, to make dropping the CV easier/easy (haven't tried this yet...next time).

 

Don't get much more "rust belt" than NE Ohio and I didn't have any of those problems. Admittedly, took lots of WD40. Job would go a lot faster if you could get an impact in there...

I thought about pounding out the bolts too. I tried pounding out the bolts. It didn't work.

 

"I replaced a boot, I will never do it again, it was a real PITA. I will just buy a cheap Autozone one with a lifetime warrantee and if it rips again, I will turn in the whole thing for a new one. Changing a CV is pretty easy, changing a boot is a PITA!"

Besides what has already been said here are few more explanations and reasons: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...hlight=cv+boot

 

you can get an impact in there, you just need an extension. i did both of mine late summer with the help of a mech friend, less than 2 hrs total from the time the jack went under until the wheels hit the ground. that included talk time about other stuff.

we just took out the lower shock bolt for clearance, slick.

lee

 

Ok got another noob, question, that I need a quick answer too in order to possibly do the CV boot change and also for a future ball joint spacer. I'm going to Costco to look at Floor Jacks/stand packages, I have a floor jack but it is for cars and doubt it will reach high enough for my truck. What type do I need to look for as in the height the jack will reach? Should I just look for an truck/SUV jackstand. Thanks in advance.

 

Get the highest ones you can, but you can always put boards, concrete blocks, etc under the jackstands if they don't reach high enough.

 

Any 3Ton jack that raises 19"-20" will work and IMO is better than those skinny "high lift" SUV/Truck jacks.
Go to Checkers auto part store...i recently bought one there made by "Power Built" with a 3 year warranty for $60.00 and the price/warranty was much better than what i found at Sears, PepBoys, and Walmart.

 

Costco has the aluminum ones which I believe go up to 23 inches or so. That's about the highest you can find any normal floor jack. I have 24 inch harbor freight jackstand but you're not going to find anything that high at costco. Usually they're pretty expensive too unless you get them on sale like I did for $20.

Anyway, for the front, just about any jack or jackstand will do.

 

Ok, got the jack stands and the CV. Found out today the manufacturer of the CV filed for bankrupcy (SP??) and so the life time warranty is up in the air. Autozone said they would replace it with the same one if a store had it. I might just use my car jack that goes 13.5 inches and put a piece of wood under it as suggested earlier if I need to get an extra inch or so. Do you guys think 13.5 inches will be high enough? I've never jacked a truck up so do I put the jack just in the middle of the center beam (I don't know what the proper term is for it), which is the lowest the of the front side of the truck? and put the jack stands under the same beam just further out to the edges? Also the first write up says I need to use thread lock but the other write ups don't, need it or don't need it? The first write up also says torque to 59ft-lbs on the 4 lower ball joint bolts I assume you guys recommend this? Also it says to use grease, will regular automotive grease work? Also any hints that might help this go smother/easier?