sweet, thanks for that info on the t-stat, I was wondering what temp I should shoot for. My temp gauge is always dead on in the middle so whatever got put in there last is good, I'm guessing 180. 160 sounds like a good idea with the SC, especially all the time I spend near redline! haha

I am ordering a new bolt today from Toyota even though the original is fine, agreed there. I can vouch for it coming loose post TB replacement!!! rrrrr..

ChefYota, thanks! I will post up the outcome for you guys here probably Sunday after I finish.

 

I just ordered the key, bolt and thermostat w/gasket from Toyota, they didn't even know what temp it was, just came up as the stock T-stat in their computer (probably 180). should be fine, kinda wanted to try that 160 though. those should be in tomorrow, curious to see if the bolt has any coating/loctite on it.

Did you know that shift knobs for my truck would cost $107 ??!!???!! think I will keep looking for those elsewhere.... I want to get rid of the crappy stitched shifter knobs in my 4runner and like the ones on my truck. not that much though....

Now I will have a spare timing belt also!, I always carry extra drive belts, I always carry a large bag 'o tools, I could fix a broken TB out on the trail, how hilarious would that be, hahaha.

All parts are on there way now!!

 

that otc tool is garbage just waited a week and a half to get it $64 after shipping and the first time I tried it on camshaft pulley (which the manual says it has 83 foot pounds) it broke first time there is only 3 threads on the pins that come with it. it sent the pin flying across the garage. Now I'm building a tool my self out of angle iron and 1/2" grade 8 bolts. real similar to the 2X4 idea. dont waste your money on the otc tool you will be out time and money. And the problem is I'm doing a valve job and you need that tool or similar one to pull the camshafts. If you were to buy that tool I would tack weld the pins in place every time you use it, which is what I'm going to do

 

hmmmm... had a feeling I should have just gotten my hands on some steel and someone with a welder.... trying to hit the easy button with getting that tool, thanks for the heads up though, I'm expecting that to be the hardest part, torquing that bolt down and lined up right.

hardware store might get some of my money if that tool turns out to be garbage.

 

I purchased the Schley brand, looks like a well made tool.

http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1...damper_pu.html

 

^^ yeah, that looks exactly the same as the one I ordered, I'm hoping it works decent enough to get the job done but would like to use it on future projects; it supposedly fits/works on the camshaft pulleys also and probably a bunch of other stuff. I'm wondering what the Toyota factory tool looks like, probably a lot better. The holes on the CS pulley are also threaded towards the engine side...

This is why i need to buy a welder and some metal stock so I can make my own tools, especially since I'm about to service 3-4 axles between my two rigs this year. some of these specialty tools they really kill us on the price.

Time and money$$... that's all that's needed.... think I might mess with the tensioner today and do what cleaning I can in the engine bay, AC unit is caked with dirt/oil. also gotta pick up my toyota parts from the dealer today...

 

OK, got some of the parts from Toyota today, now just waiting on tools and CS pulley/TB/cover from internet order.

Thermostat is 86* C which is 186.8* F, $22.55 for that.


Crankshaft pulley bolt is beautiful and it DOES have some loctite on there already although not very much. that was only $6.82, worth it's weight in gold and then some.


Key was only $1.31... and a gasket for the T-stat which ran $6.27.


So all in all, happy with the bolt and the T-stat, also picked up a Haynes manual for the 4runner, will probably get one for the truck also, they seem to be much better than the Chilton just from skimming thru it. good to have multiple references anyway. Won't be able to do anything more on the truck until Sunday at the earliest due to work, hopefully will be finished either Sun or Monday at the latest.

I'll be sure to post up when she's done! (or if I get stuck...)

 

oops, it's 82* = 179.6* F on the thermostate, sorry 'bout that.

 

Sweet, AA,

Good grab! Trippy, they put the RED lock tite on the V6 bolt, and BLUE on the 22re. I guess because of the 100# difference, maybe? lol.

Yeah, I had a stant thermo once, lasted 10 years, then another, more recently a year ago lasted about a month, lol. Now I have OEM all the way... Sometimes last 25 years, as one did in my buddy's 83! lol.

Have fun and get'r'done, bud!

Mark

 

maybe a little bit of jb weld if thay are buggerd beyond repair...

or you could heilcoil the crankshaft,,,

 

Hmmm, I could swear when I did my TB last Spring, my new Toyota CS pulley bolt came with a blue-gray coating...anyway...wishing you luck!

 

thanks chef!, and everyone else too, can't wait to get my parts and get home so I can fix this... I have no idea on the loctite other than what I know from gun parts... the red is normally the high strength stuff but like I said, there wasn't a lot on the bolt, I will be adding a small amount to be sure! this engine will be coming apart anyway shortly for a complete turbo build but want to eek out another 50k before that time.... My runner will be getting special attention also to ensure the TB replacement didn't jack that vehicle up also.... this is retarded, I made sure to 'lecture' the toyota clerk on CS bolt replacement........ like he cared......

 

typically all bolts washers and nuts should always be replaced..

 

Ooooh, I would ask around before putting 'more locktite', AA! Just sayin... many people wipe some of it OFF, let alone avoid putting more on, because the flange washer of that bolt is supposed to do most of the work in torquing past 70# on the 22re and probably, I would imagine, 140# or so on the big 6...? I think you should be fine with the amount that's on there, now, just torque it down to specs. I'd bet you dollars to donuts(not that I have any proof of this, hahaha) that the guy who did it torqued it to specs for the 22re, "116#" and left it at that. It's possible, right? As long as you're dealing with good threads and a fresh bolt... i would think you would be fine... but since I'm fairly young to these, so to speak... ask around, first, please? lol.

 

PS> Lil curious why you took the bolt out of the plastic bag if you're not ready to bolt it on yet.... Doesn't that stuff cure after a bit?

 

dam chef you right on top of your specs,

Iam going on a 2 day camping trip tomorrow after work, and iam probelly going to freeze my ass off doing it...

it has rainned the last 2 days.. i hope its not so bad for the weekend..

 

Hey 90! lol... yeah, been reading up and writing it down on my brain pan! lol. Might have a 3.4 in a few weeks, not probably, but possible, so I thought I'd read up on the V6 Stuffs! lol.

Have a great time, be safe, 90!

NOW, back to you, AA..... any info? lol.

 

thanks guys, I will probably not add much if any at all, there's not much on there but more than was on the original I'm sure! it's 215 ft/lbs on that sucker for the 3.4, very possible they just went 'tight 'nuff!' at the shop... the bag that the bolt was in was already open, I think just to put the key in there, not really sure why though. it was still slimy and had not hardened at all but it would seem that it would dry out after a short period. if it does dry out, I have plenty from building guns so I can easily replace it with almost identical stuff. Didn't think about that until you said something though, thanks Chef!

I get on a plane early tomorrow to come home and I'm hoping the rest of my parts show up! haven't gotten anything yet so kinda bummed... elk season starts tomorrow and wanted to have this fixed and take it up to the mountain by monday but not looking good.... I have the 4runner if it doesn't work out this weekend.... chompin' at the bit to get this finished. miss my truck, been only a week!

good luck on getting that 3.4 Chef, I love this engine... sooo easy to work on compared to my veezy and so much more power AND gas mileage... my runner is still getting 17-19mpg city/highway so can't complain too much...

I will be replacing all the drive belts also, they are fairly cheap and even though they look OK on inspection, that pulley being as far off as it was probably caused some problems/damage. probably what shredded my SC belt in the first place just before the CS pulley decided to jettison itself from the crank!

 

chef your looking to stuff a 3.4 in there now

 

No 90, lol... sorry for any confusion.... I might have an "IN" on a truck with a 3.4 on the cheap. Much of the front clip is gone, but the radiator, etc., ....all there and CLEAN otherwise. He's just not gonna bother, from what he's told me.... MOST LIKELY, not definite, ya know? You know how people can be with these... they suddenly get sentimental and POOF, the 'Maybe' turns into a "HECK NO, I'M KEEPIN HER!" hahaha. It's a 97 Tacoma 4x4....Pretty sure it's 97... maybe 98.

Like I said, "possible, NOT NECESSARILY probable", lol. NOPE< keeping my lil sewing machine motor in my 87, fo SHO!