I found all the stuff I need minus the tool for $400 even from ToyotaPartsCheap.com, thinking about getting it tonight to arrive monday maybe. The timing belt is only $41, going to go ahead and replace it and clean everything up in there to be on the safe side. The only question left now is.... will that crank run the pulley true?! let us hope....

cross your fingers for me....

 

$74?? I made this in 20 minutes from stuff I had in the basement! Ain't pretty, but it worked.

As far as the belt goes, you've done most of the hard stuff. A little patience lining up the marks and put it all back together. Torque to 215 and away you go. I'd use a new bolt, so the LocTite is pre-applied by Toyota...if you even have the old one. As you said, the big question is the shaft/pulley fit. You don't know until you try, but I'd bet in your favor. Things did not look nearly as bad as I feared.

 

yup, I'm hopin' you're right. I think it will work looking at it but I'm no mechanic either....

yeah, the tool is expensive but I've always enjoyed having high quality tools to work with and get frustrated easy with tools that aren't meant for the job. want to set myself up for success as much as possible on this one and wanted to make my own spanner but it is one more thing I don't have time to do right now. I was going to do the webbing trick, I have lots of that but want to hit the easy button today.

with enough patience, anything can be done with very little though.

yes on the bolt, it is flawless with no damage whatsoever but I like the idea of some loctite on there (cringe) hoping I won't want to take it off anytime soon. I was thinking about some anti-sieze with a dab of loctite on a separate part of the threads, is that way off or is that feasable?

a new bolt is probably a good idea though with the factory coating on it, I have to pick up the key from Toyota anyway if the pulley doesn't come with one, might as well tac that onto the order, can't be much.

Thanks Durk!

it will be a little bit while I wait for parts but I will post up my progress with lots of pics as I go.

 

quick update, I just ordered the parts (CS pulley, no.1 lower TB cover w/gasket and new Timing belt) and tools (spanner tool to hold CS pulley, 250lb torque wrench) which came to a grand total of nearly $600. the plus side is I now have some more tools which I am always a fan of, I will need both of those tools in the not so distant future anyway. parts were just over $400 with shipping. (found the CS pulley for $318, timing belt was $41)

I still have to order a key and a crank bolt from toyota tomorrow, it's coming from portland and will be in monday or tuesday; should be about $10. I will be going on a short business trip next week so I won't get to this until sunday but hope to be up and running by next monday at the latest. (Elk season starts next weekend, can't miss... elk don't fit so good in the 4runner...)

Anyway, the grand plan is to replace the TB to be on the safe side, and clean everything well and reassemble with the new CS pulley/key/bolt and replace the coolant/radiator, etc... as long as I don't screw up the timing and the pulley doesn't 'warble' I will be in like flint and back in bidness again.

Thanks for everyone's help so far, it is greatly appreciated to have some experience looking at this and not just myself, makes this soooo much easier. of course any other advice from anyone else with experience is more than welcome too, thanks guys, will let you know how she turns out!

will post more pics and details this weekend after my parts/tools arrive.

 

how do the threads inside the crank look? If they're boogered up you got problems. At least chase them before you install all this expensive stuff to only have the same thing happen again.

 

Mightymouse has some wise words there lol.

please chase the threads so i don't have to see carnage like this again (from you) this made me go out and check the torque on my 3vz crank.

 

EEEk, dang, AA, so sorry to hear, man! I'm watching, and I wish ya the best, bud!

Mark

PS> X3 on the Chasing the Threads Suggestion. Do you want peeps keeping an eye out for a good deal on a new or near perfect condition pulley?

 

Heres the deal with the tool. If you dont get the right kind of holder, one that threads into the big pulley not just pins. Then there is a good chance you'll tear the balance weight off the pulley. Get the right tool or you'll be ordering another crank pulley. Ask me how i know!

 

I'll bite. How do you know? I don't see how that is possible unless the pins were WAY too short. Almost ALL the tools I have seen (except the $220 factory SST I admit) use pins of one kind or another. Mine worked fine. Thanks, I'd like to know more.

On the threads, good idea, but since he still HAS the old bolt, and it's in good shape, and he caught it while the pulley was just canted some, I'm thinking the bolt stayed engaged enough he may be all right there. Worth checking though. If it had come out all the way, or even almost, that hole would be badly off for sure, and so would the bolt.

 

You'll not be able to just 'tell' by the naked eye whether or not there's a flaw or flattened thread in the hole, Durk.... And it goes down to 215#? Hmmmm, I would still say chase it if you have someone that can do it(wont be costly) and the bolt is what, 12$?(maybe you don't need the bolt, but can you know for sure it didn't chew up any threads on the way out?... Maybe get it in there and see if there's ANY resistance?) That's a lot shy of doing some of the more labor intensive and costly work here... I get that. But this? I think it's worth it to be CERTAIN it seats and stays seated, no? Of course, I could be crazy? hahaha.

Hope it all goes smoothly for yer friend, Durk, Best wishes,

Mark

 

Just Loc-tite (on a used bolt) or the factory coating (on a new one). They will substitute the anti-corrosion part of Anti-Seize, and you DON'T want the anti-seize part of Anti-Seize, so leave it in the jar.

 

My answers in bold.

 

Ooops, sorry, Durk,... I think I got mixed up on which thread I was on! hahaha. Either way, curious as to what peeps think of the whole idea....

GET EM AA! LOL.

Amazing, too, that the 22re is 116# and THAT'S pretty darn tight....then jump up to 217#???? ???? lol. "Go get Bob, he's a big'n..... need him to stand on this sucker!!" lol.

 

hahaha, thanks guys. the bolt is perfect, oddly enough and from looking close I can't see any damage to the internal threads of the crank but I will be sure to thread the bolt in there first and see if there is any resistance. I will probably have to to turn the crank anyway to line up the timing marks.

after coming loose, I only drove it about 400m maybe to a gravel pull off (which is like 5,000 revolutions I know....) amazingly it was still running flawless minus the power steering.

I do plan on using a new bolt, I will ditch the anti-seize though (gladly).

the different manuals have slightly different torque specs but 215 vs 216 and even 217 ft/lbs is funny; how would you measure (or care about) 1 ft/lb when you already have 200+ lbs of --- on there?!

the 22r has the 116 ft/lb, the veezy jumped to 184 and then this thing at 215. that's some serious torque, wish I had it in the first place! what's the new 4.0, like 300 lbs?

thanks guys for your input and advice, helped me out a good deal so far even if it doesn't seem like it to you guys. I will post up the outcome this coming weekend after my parts arrive and I get back from the east coast. Not that I don't love my 4runner but I miss the get-up and go from my SC.... the 3.0's get up and go got up and went! actually it's not too bad with the few mods I have done to her, she moves OK....

maybe I should spend less time just below redline on the truck and my bolts wouldn't fly off! hahaha, naaaa...

thanks!

oh, just thought of something.... so recently (over the last month or two) I've driven this backroad in the national forest, about a 20 mile stretch (shooting/hunting trips), and I'm not kidding, it is washboarded so bad it broke the A/C push button OFF from vibrating the truck so badly. every time I drive it I say to myself, my truck is going to fall apart!! ---> I'm wondering if all those trips back and forth down that road vibrated this thing loose? 215lbs is a lot of torque though.... just a thought

just pulled my maintenance log, the timing belt/wp/therm was done in June last year at 128k miles.... I'm leaning towards the washboarded road vs. local shop or maybe a combination of both... doesn't matter, I'm fixing it regardless of the cause now. I can't even imagine how expensive this would be if a shop was doing this, I could probably buy a new engine for the same or less.

when they did the timing belt last year, apparantly they lost at least one bolt on the no.2 TB cover, boogered up a bolt/stud on the fan bracket, all minor but ya know.... I do my own work and I'm much happier because I'm the one 80 miles back a dirt road with this thing!

 

As to the torque, the spec is really 300n-m according to the FSM, then they convert. The correct conversion is, I believe, 0.7376 n-m/ft-lb, which would yield a whopping 221.3 ft-lbs, not the 217 in my FSM. Yikes!

Pretty sure your shop effed this one up.

 

HOLY MAGILLA GORILLA! That's some serious Torque! lol...

Durk, I've been dealing with this kinda thing with the machinist that did much of my motor... Unfortunately, it happens more often than people think. Guy fought with his wife that day, yadda yadda, ...ya never know. Hope you get'r done quick, AA!

 

yup, thanks! once the new timing belt is on it will only take about an hour or so to put the covers and pulley on with the radiator/fan etc.. that was actually super easy to tear down. I used soapy water and a scrub brush to clean all the plastic parts and my radiator hoses, they are nice and clean now, I still need to clean the fan bracket though. I cleaned the pulleys and other hardware, PS bracket, fan clutch etc...

I could really get away with slapping a new pulley on without doing the belt but I'm not risking it and like a good challenge anyway.

Everything is cleaned up except for the timing belt area on the truck so once my parts arrive it will be go time! can't wait to get this back on the road, it's my DD rig (hence the 20k miles in just over a year...)

 

Here's a pic of the CS pulley bolt as it came out, zero damage...


and all the crap that's out of the engine bay at this time:


my boogered up radiator..... spent 1 1/2 hours today straightening fins on it and cleaning it inside and out. used tap water to wash it out good and then flushed that out with some distilled water and after hosing it off, took the air compressor to it also. about as good as she will get! pretty nasty lookin' but still in workable condition.


and all cleaned up, hard to tell any difference except up close...


anyway, that's the progress I made today, just some cleaning, I'm going to order a new Toyota OEM thermostat also, I'm pretty sure the aftermarket one in there now is garbage. my old WP is in perfect shape also, I have a feeling the aftermarket is not near as quality but it will stay for now.

waiting on parts!

 

SWEET, AA!

Good job, I'm rooting for ya, man.... Glad it's almost there. Yeah, can relate to that, "Parts Dept. hours are blah blah blah, Monday through Saturday....... CLOSED SUNDAY, so GO AWAY!", .....Ok, it doesn't say that, but it SURE FEELS THAT WAY when I'm in NEED! lol.

L8t,

Mark

 

trd uses a 160 degree thermo for the sc application.. just fyi. Also if I recall correctly, there was a service buellitin on the tb service to use new bolts when changing tb due to a common issue of the bolt coming loose generally after a tb replacement. Now I don't know how soon after the tb replacent that the bolt would come loose as I never came accross that info. But having a sc i would think helped it come loose.