aa1911

iTrader: (1)

and not in a good way, too add insult to injury, I did an entire writeup a minute ago and then 20 minutes of typing dissapeared.....

OK, SC belt shredded so I replaced it and it ran fine for about 5 miles then alternator went out, then PS went out. pulled over and to my horror was the CS pulley sitting torqued over at about a 15* angle!!!! loose as can be... thanks to the CS bolt, which is usually impossible to GET OFF, not ON!

needless to say at that point, I shamefully used my free roadside assistance.... it's now in my driveway torn apart down to the timing belt almost.

CS pulley is messed up pretty bad on the inside and the output shaft coming out of the No,1 cover has some damage also but looks salvageable (I hope). It has rotational gouges in it. The pulley has been 'resized' on the inside, it doesn't even come close to fitting anymore, it's 'reamed' out. (no sick pun intended...)

my question is 1) what do you guys recommend for a new CS pulley, i.e. URD's, Toyota OEM, etc...

and

2) there's a key slot in the pulley but not on the shaft; need someone to break it down to me like blues clues, I'm assuming if there even is supposed to be a key, it would have to go into that first gear behind the no.1 timing belt cover? there was no key found upon disassembly. My chilton talks about the key but none of the diagrams I found in it and elsewhere show any key on this pulley.

I thought about visiting a local pic-n-pull but with limited tools and the fact these usually don't come OFF (USUALLY...) that seems like a fruitless endevour.

Oh yeah, timing belt was done by a local shop just over a year ago, I'm guessing they did not torque the CS bolt to it's spec 215 ft/lbs, hmmmmmm...... it's also supposed to get a coating of never sieze or similar I guess. it was pretty dry/clean when I pulled it out.

Here's the SC belt... I'll post some more pics in a minute here....

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

and some more...










Tell me what you guys think about that shaft that's boogered up.... rrrrrr....

Thanks!

aa1911

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oh yeah, the no.1 timing belt cover has a chunk missing also at the bottom there...

I'll try to get a better pic of the pulley but that's gonna be replaced anyway....

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

Few things to check. Is the crank damaged? you should need another woodruff key for the crank and a new pulley. That's the best case scenario. Worst case the crank is buggered up and needs "fixed" or replaced. I say"fixed" meaning i've seen some jb weld jobs on cranks that this has happened to before but for my money it's just a ticking time bomb. The woodruff key is the part that goes in the slot of the crank pulley and matches to the same spot on the crank. You made me think a little so i just went out to check the tension on my crank in the little truck.

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

the crank has some gouges in it (rotational direction but I'm still not sure whether to try and run it or if it is worth a complete tear down... rrrrr... I'm only at 146k on the motor, wasn't quite ready to recondition..... I cannot find a key slot on the crank though! just a slot in the pulley itself, weird.

TheDurk

There is a key, and it IS supposed to engage BOTH the crank timing gear and the crankshaft pulley. What I think has happened is that the timing gear has moved forward on the shaft so that you can't see what is left of the key--which is not going to be much-- or any of the keyway. You need to pull the No. 1 cover and the timing gear and get a good look at the rest of the CS shaft end, especially the keyway that is now covered by the gear. My guess is it won't be pretty, but you might be lucky.

Here is the diagram, the keyway is aft of what you see in your pic:

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

i'm more familiar with the 22r/re's but as far as i know with any crank i've ever delt with there should be a spot on the crank for the key. Look closely at it and see if when the crank was spinning it didn't melt it into the crank itself and needs to be removed. If you maybe pull the timing cover to find out where it is.

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

yup, the cover is coming off today. I just called toyota, the new CS pulley is $398.01 and the key is $1.40, hooray.....

found some crappy ones online (MTC and Dorman) for about $100.

the bright side is I have my 4runner to get me around until I fix this.

Thanks Durk for the diagram, I don't have that version, that's the first one I've seen showing the key.

wish me luck!!

I will post up some pics in a bit after I pull the cover and fan bracket.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

I say take off the covers clean off all the metal shavings and pull the timing belt to closely inspect it. If theres that much metal stuck to the cam sensor, I wonder how much found its way into the belt or how many little tears it may have caused. Basically I'm thinking your tb is comprimized.

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

vital22re brings up a really good point may as well do it while you have the cover off.

mattches

x3 check the timing belt closely.
When the CS pulley is off, the woodruff key on the shaft only protrudes about a 1/8 to a 1/4 inch, just enough to engage the pulley. The bulk of the key is holding the timing gear in place. You wouldn't see it towards the end of the shaft. If you feel around the base of the shaft, you should feel where the key is/ was.
I would guess that if your AC compressor or (other accessories) was faulty enough to shred the belt, then it has been fighting with your crank pulley for a while. At some point the edge of the woodruff key sheared off and let your cs pulley start free wheeling, which would then start loosening your bolt. And sending metal shavings everywhere inside.
Which if it is the case, a new woodruff key is easy enough to replace, once you get the timing belt off and timing gear off.
Or it could be that an alien was trying to perform an anal probe on your toy.
Just guesses anyway. Good Luck!

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

yes, there are shavings coating the magnetic sensor, really badly. the timing belt only has about 20k miles on it, replaced last september but I will check it carefully. it's not near as difficult to get to as I imagined but still a PITA. I'm about to pull the last two covers off right now and see what I can find.

one of the studs on the fan bracket has boogered threads too, need to pull out the die set and clean up the threads so I can pull that nut off without removing the stud.

I'll take a bunch of pics and post 'em up for you guys, thanks for the input, much appreciated.

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

OK, good news, it looks better than expected although there is a ton of shavings and particles, I'm uploading my photos right now on photobucket, be a minute. the key is still in place which means the bottom timing gear should still be OK?

The first timing plate is OK also, the shaft is the only thing boogered up a bit but I think it will be salvageable, it should be hard as crap and hopefully not out of spec.

I'm hoping a new CS pulley and key will be the only necessary work, the key is actually still in good shape, unbelievable when you see the pulley.

anyone have an opinion on URD's CS pulley/balancer? it is cheaper than an OEM but not sure I want a lighter one... also, is there anything I need to do to the pulley itself when I mount the new one or are they ready to go?

thanks

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

OK, here's the magnet with all the shavings on it....


and there's some shavings down here.....


and whattya know, here's the key! slightly boogered but pretty good actually...


a better shot of the crank... I hope this will work, I don't want to rebuild this engine yet


the no.1 timing belt cover piece with a gouge out of the bottom, need to replace this


and the crap that was inside of it....


some more crap spewn onto the back of the fan bracket...


inside the idler.... some more shavings, not much here though...


Anyway, the timing belt itself looks perfect, there are no particles at all on it and it still looks brand spankin' new, wondering if it's worth replacing now or not... I plan on rebuilding this engine at around 200k miles anyway which would be just in time for a timing belt. (assuming the ground up crankshaft will work for now) it's got 146k as it sits (and only sits) right now.

the only metal shavings were on the magnetic sensor and a small amount in the upper idler and lastly, a small amount near the bottom. the rest of it looks like engine grunge and carbon particles.

I think tonight I order a new CS pulley & key, lower TB cover and I might spend $60 on a spanner to hold the CS pulley. Any input or advice? anything that should be done while I'm in here? water pump/thermostat are brand new also.... A/C works awesome but has never been serviced, PS has no leaks or problems, alt is orginal and works fine, starter is 10 years old but zero problems... radiator is decent and hoses are still good inside and out.

Thanks fellas!

I'm not worried at the cost of the belt ($60) but rather my skill in changing it, not sure it's something I want to try right now.

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

the last photo, those particles on the idler and TB are just dust from the upper TB cover BTW....

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

my truck on a much happier day.......

mmml4

I would definately get the special tool to hold the harmonic balancer to torque the bolt, the special tool will also work to hold the cam shaft pulleys if you ever want to change the cam shaft seals.

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

good to know, thanks. the webbing/tourniquet method looks like a huge PITA, I will definitely get the tool. I was wondering if there was a 'universal' spanner of some sort that has a plate with series of holes for the pins, would come in handy for the SC pulley too....

habanero

I got a universal spanner but the pins are too short. A couple of bolts that fit nicely in the holes later and life is good.

OTC 6613
Toyota variable pin spanner wrench. Weren't super great but with the additional 'pins' did the job I needed it to do.

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

hey, thanks! i just saw that exact one on Amazon and almost bought it too..... decided to go with the real deal for the 3.4 from theToolWarehouse.net, it will be $74 total with shipping.

glad you said something, I would have been pissed if that thing didn't work from the get-go!