I'm in the middle of a timing belt job, and I can't get the crank bolt off to save my life! I've fabricated a tool out of 1/4" wall 1-1/2" square tube to hold the pulley. I've even tried the starter trick and it isn't working (I tried it twice).

This sounds stupid, but is that bolt reverse threaded?

I've been reading most of the other posts, but I just wanted to check, because I'm at a loss.

 

no, its not reverse. they are just a huge PITA to get out.

 

Isn't the spec on the crank bolt like 215 lbs?
Kevin

 

It's a ton, 116 ft-lbs on the 22R-E and 181 ft-lbs on the 3VZ-E.

 

Damn, that means I really can't get it out! I figured the starter trick would get it for sure, but it didn't on my truck. Oh well, back to the 'drawing board'.

 

Mine was on super-tight too. I had no luck with the "starter trick" either.

So what is the nature of your problem? Is your home-made pulley holder bending/slipping? Can you not get enough leverage on your breaker bar to loosen it? If its the latter, a hydraulic jack handle will slip over the end of most breaker bars giving you bookoo leverage. I used the pipe from a High-Lift jack.

 

Here is what I've tried:
heat, penetrating fluid, starter, pulley holding tool w/ muscle

The tool is awesome, but the bolt just rounds off. The same happens with the starter, it rounds the corners a bit and the socket falls off.

This is my tool: it works like a charm.

 

Find,beg,borrow,rent a 1/2 air impact and save your self a ton of hassle. Same goes for a air supply if you do not have a compressor, or decent size air tank. If your stuck with "manual" and your biggest problem is "holding the crank from turning". There is the old soft rope into the combustion chamber trick so the piston/crank will not turn. Then a strong socket and lots of leverage and when it breaks loose, dont fall and break something else. Good luck.

 

Are you using a 6 or 12 point socket?
A 12 point will round it off.
A 6 point won't.

5VZFE torque spec for re-install is 217ft lbs.

 

6 point

 

CRUD!
Well, you can try and find a 6 point thickwalled socket [ impact style ] that will fit over the bolt, even if you have to go to the next size smaller[if its really rounded off] The higher end [expensive/like Snap-on] sockets are made to grip rounded off bolts. You may have to hold it on with a lot of pressure. [The one time, had to pull the rad and jam some boards between the rad cross member and the breaker bar to keep it from slipping off.]

Good luck, because you will not like the next step if that trick fails.

it involves a very good

 

You need to take the socket you are using and grind the face completely flat. Sockets have a radius machined around the edge that makes them easier to slide onto the fastener. This radius also decreases contact surface/grip of the socket. A bench grinder is easiest to use and will yield a flatter face than a smaller hand-held grinding wheel. Take brake cleaner and throughly clean the crank bolt removing all penetrating oils, etc. Clean the socket too. If you are using an extension on the socket, try and use a shorter one or none at all. Extensions make it difficult to keep the socket square on the bolt. If there is room, try positioning a floor jack underneath the socket/breaker bar to add support for keeping the socket square on the bolt.

 

Impact wrench!!!Best bet. Unless i had a buckoo large chain wrench and a buckoo large breaker bar. i dont understand though why the bolt is rounding off? I have never had this problem unless i was using the wrong size socket.

However--impact wrench--pull the radiator and go get an electric one from Harbor freight if you dont have air. Never used an electric one....not sure how effective they are. Once you start using them it causes spoiling of said user.

 

i broke a 1" impact gun(22re)... it had to be chiseled off!

 

anybody know of an electric impact wrench that will fit between the crank bolt and the AC condenser? I got a DeWalt, but I'll have to remove the condenser to use it.

 

For those that do want to tackle timing belt job on any make and models, JUST GET AN IMPACT WRENCH. ~20gal tank and 1/2" ~600ft-lb impact.

as I stated on another thread, your best bet is to pop it open w/ impact wrench. it should take a max 2min of impact, and that goes for any cars. some hondas are the worst.

frustration building up b4 the project is even started will end up w/ a poor result. ive been through it and im speakin from my own experiences.

 

I have one of the Harbor Freight electric impact guns that is supposed to generate 240 lb/ft of torque. I torqued a nut on my Harley to 160 lb/ft and then tried to remove it with the impact gun. No dice.

Here is a photo of a socket I ground down to create more contact surface and prevent slipping. A "normal" socket is featured for comparison.

 

Amen!

I haven't tried it yet, but I got a 21 gallon compressor and a 625 ft-lb impact wrench from Harbour Frieght. Being on such a tight budget, I didn't want to go that route. Oh well, this is how automotive maintenance is I guess.

I'll see tonight or tomorrow after work how it all works.

Thanks to everybody on here for the ideas and help.

 

ok, this is getting amusing (in a delirious kind of way).

My most recent attempt was with a 625 ft-lb impact wrench. It didn't budge. I kept the wrench on there for a minute or so each time.

This is getting stupid! Any really creative, outside the box thinkers have a great idea?

I guess my next approach is with heat, and lots of it.

 

Ok, if you have access to a torch (oxy/acetelene) hear the head of the crank bolt cherry red it will expand the bolt and lessen the clamping force use the impact to remove the bolt while still hot. You'll have to get a new bolt, DO NOT REUSE THE ORIGINAL!!!