Cost efficiant cooling help?
05-08-2005, 10:51 PM
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Cost efficiant cooling help?
Any recomendation on what I can do to keep the air temps down? I'v been thinking about a 3" custom pipe from intake box to T body. and servicing/tuning up the radiator. what can i do to the radiator, and what sort of fluid do you recomend? im going to be going lots of long distance in south america...
upgrading the fan or and electric fan?
what kind of oil would you recomend for lots of logn distance hot weather?
anything else i can do to help temps and just smooth things out even if it doesnt gain to much power..
upgrading the fan or and electric fan?
what kind of oil would you recomend for lots of logn distance hot weather?
anything else i can do to help temps and just smooth things out even if it doesnt gain to much power..
Last edited by 2WICE; 05-08-2005 at 10:53 PM.
05-08-2005, 11:26 PM
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"rodded" out? what can they do that i cant do myself? i wanna do as much as possible myself.. especialy things i can try first and take in if i break it...
currently i dont "need" the truck running so im willing to trial and error a bit if i dont risk making it more expensive than the original problem fix cost..
im mechanicly inclined.. but not really educated
currently i dont "need" the truck running so im willing to trial and error a bit if i dont risk making it more expensive than the original problem fix cost..
im mechanicly inclined.. but not really educated
Last edited by 2WICE; 05-08-2005 at 11:34 PM.
05-09-2005, 12:45 AM
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Throw in some RedLine WaterWetter to help the coolant more efficient and keep head temperatures cooler by an average of 20 degrees F.
I ran a 90%/10% water/coolant mix (summer months only) with a bottle of WaterWetter in my Eclipse and never had any cooling system issues for the whole 117,000 miles I drove it with over half those miles being quite modded.
I ran a 90%/10% water/coolant mix (summer months only) with a bottle of WaterWetter in my Eclipse and never had any cooling system issues for the whole 117,000 miles I drove it with over half those miles being quite modded.
05-09-2005, 08:02 AM
#5
When the rod out a radiator, the top and bottom tanks are removed and "rods" are run down the cooling passages in the core to remove deposits:
http://www.aceradiator.com/faqs.htm
I replaced my partially clogged old radiator with a new 3-row heavy duty unit, run Toyota red and distilled water w/ Redline Water Wetter and a Toyota dual-valve t-stat and stock fan clutch and the engine runs nice and cool.
http://www.aceradiator.com/faqs.htm
I replaced my partially clogged old radiator with a new 3-row heavy duty unit, run Toyota red and distilled water w/ Redline Water Wetter and a Toyota dual-valve t-stat and stock fan clutch and the engine runs nice and cool.
05-09-2005, 10:24 AM
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right on thanks for the info guys.. i think im gonna get it "rodded out". and go with the toyota red, distilled water, and water wetter. how much did the ur t stat cost 4crawler? can i get the fluids and t stat for under 50 bux yuh think?
what do you guys think about replacing the fan with something "HD"
ps: what weight and brand oil would you recomend for this summer? im going to be heading into south america for a long time...
what do you guys think about replacing the fan with something "HD"
ps: what weight and brand oil would you recomend for this summer? im going to be heading into south america for a long time...
Last edited by 2WICE; 05-09-2005 at 10:48 AM.
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05-09-2005, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by X-AWDriver
Throw in some RedLine WaterWetter to help the coolant more efficient and keep head temperatures cooler by an average of 20 degrees F.
05-13-2005, 08:05 PM
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recomendations for coolent mix? im going to be going with yota red and water wetter.. ill be doing a lot of long distance...
05-13-2005, 08:19 PM
#10
A couple of options:
1: Look at the chart on the A/F bottle, it'll usually give freezing and boiling point data for various ratios of coolant to water. Pick a higher boiling point.
2: Use a mostly water mix, water conducts heat better than A/F, so more water = more heat flow. So use the lowest mix listed on the bottle, maybe 70% water or so.
I run about 50:50 all the time and never have any overheating issues.
1: Look at the chart on the A/F bottle, it'll usually give freezing and boiling point data for various ratios of coolant to water. Pick a higher boiling point.
2: Use a mostly water mix, water conducts heat better than A/F, so more water = more heat flow. So use the lowest mix listed on the bottle, maybe 70% water or so.
I run about 50:50 all the time and never have any overheating issues.
05-13-2005, 08:37 PM
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i think im gonna go 80/20 or 75/25 water/coolant. and water wetter..
i knwo i can look it up.. but since were already on cooling.. where is the t stat? how easy is it replace.. as i understand a few minutes?
i knwo i can look it up.. but since were already on cooling.. where is the t stat? how easy is it replace.. as i understand a few minutes?
05-13-2005, 08:40 PM
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if its a 22r or re it should take about 10 minutes or less to actually change out the tstat... the best thermostat to use is the one roger brown mentioned on his site. since i changed to this tstat i have had no mroe cooling problems. this is the dual stage tstat.... not sure how hard or long it takes to do on a v6
05-13-2005, 09:11 PM
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thanks for all ur help u have to offer roger, you are like a yota tech hero..
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anyone have recomendations for cooling my a/t ?
what can i do without going to a shop? how many times do yall think id have to drain the ATF till i got a full swap? im thinking about starting to do it every oil change so eventualy ill get a full swap.. im having tiny, every once and awhile problems with the a/t getting hott.. so i think ill be fyne after the first drain.. and then itll only get better from there
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anyone have recomendations for cooling my a/t ?
what can i do without going to a shop? how many times do yall think id have to drain the ATF till i got a full swap? im thinking about starting to do it every oil change so eventualy ill get a full swap.. im having tiny, every once and awhile problems with the a/t getting hott.. so i think ill be fyne after the first drain.. and then itll only get better from there
05-13-2005, 09:15 PM
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not sure on how much rod out a rad cost sounds like it takes some time. might be better to get a new one if you have a 22re then get a 3.0 rad last time I bought one was 2 years ago and it was around $140 online they bolt right up and they are 3 core . i ran one in my 84 when i had a 22r and it kept it nice and cool... just a thought
edit: did some searching and found this not a bad deal http://www.radiatorbarn.com/s7.asp?a...size=V6%2C3.0L
edit: did some searching and found this not a bad deal http://www.radiatorbarn.com/s7.asp?a...size=V6%2C3.0L
Last edited by DudeBud; 05-13-2005 at 09:23 PM.
05-13-2005, 11:09 PM
#19
Consider staying with the stock fan setup. It's simple, reliable, and hasn't failed me in AZ summers at 100-115 degrees. I'm guessing you will have an easier time finding stock Toy parts out of the country if it does fail rather than all the various and sundry crap you need for a Taurus or flex a lite swap. Just put in a 3 row radiator like Roger mentioned, maintain it well, and leave the fan alone IMHO.
