BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

OK. So I started to jack another thread about ball joints when the term "control arm bushings" got mentioned. Figured I ought to start my own thread. I read about pressing the new bushings into the old sleeves and mt goat mentioned difficulty getting the old ones out more than pressing the new ones in. Anyone done this that can point to specific complications or have any pointers? Anyone aware of a full write up anywhere? I'd like to eventually change out all the bushings on the truck but this is the one that worries me. Thanks

Mike

Roadtripr

hmm.. its probably another bushing I am thinking about. But the strut bushing where it attaches to the control arm is not easy to replace. Labor wise it is as costly to do and just getting a new strut put in

BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I think we're talking about different stuff. I know I've seen a good diagram of the things but can't seem to find it now to post.

Anybody else?

ChickenLover

I just replaced my control arm bushings. It was an absolute nightmare. My truck came from the east coast so I'm sure rust was the primary issue for me. I had to cut the old ones out with a torch. To give you an idea of what I went through putting them on - I put the arm and the new bushing in a very large vise, I used a monster breaker bar to crank the vise shut in an attempt to press the new one in. I cranked it until I was afraid the vise was going to break, then pulled it out of the vise and was able to remove the bushing with my bare hand (it hadn't been pressed in at all).

I had to heat the arm red hot with the cutting torch and pound the new bushings in with a BFH quickly while the metal was expanded, then I had to pound the the arm back into shape while the metal was still hot enough to manipulate, then pour water on it before the heat caught the new rubber on fire.

It all worked out, but if I had to do it again, I would just buy new control arms. Unless you are having a problem definately related to the control arm, I would avoid this project. I did mine because I thought the rattling I was experiencing under the truck was caused by worn control arm bushings. After all that crap it turned out I was wrong. The rattling was coming from worn sway bar cushions. D'oh!

BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

OK. Thanks for the info. Sounds like something I might leave for the pros to do, if I do it at all.

mt_goat

My new bushings went in fairly easy. I did use a huge vise with a 3 foot long pipe over the handle for leverage just like I did to remove the old ones, but they just slid right into place. I did remove the rust on the control arm first with a sand blaster but I didn't sand blast the mating surface for the bushing, there I used a little sand paper to clean the rust off. It sounds like chickenlover may not have been pushing the bushing in the right spot. There is just a small lip on the bushing where it needs to be pushed and you need to find or make a ring to set on the lip while pressing them in. If you push from the end of the bushing you will just be flexing the rubber inside the bushing and will get no where and you might destroy the bushing.

mt_goat

Here is a pic of the rings I used for pressing the bushings in and out. I took a new bushing to Lowes and searched the plumbing dept for something to fit it.



The one on the right was the one I used for pressing the new bushings in, it just a little too small so I took a grinder wheel and enlarged the hole so it would fit the bushing lip just right. The one on the left was used behind the control arm to leave room for the bushing to slip into place.

BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

So now I have one for and one against. Anyone else? Any other tips? And especially, can anyone point me at a write up?

Flamedx4

Hey MtGoat - how difficult was it to take the arms on and off the truck? I've been looking for an excuse to buy a really nice big bench vise (and build a new bench while I'm at it...) but it looks to me like removing those arms is a real beehatch.

mt_goat

Well taking them off wasn't as hard as putting them back on, but after doing the first LCA I discovered that a floor jack under the control arm helped to push it into place. I was doing them by myself, and the first one was a real wrassling match because the bushings get compressed a little as you reinstall the arms. One other possible problem is sometimes the bolts get rusted inside the bushing sleaves, and have to be cut to remove. Those concentric cam bolts are pretty expensive I hear. I used anti-seize on them all before reassembly.

mt_goat

Another tip when reinstalling the control arms sometimes it can be hard to get the holes lined up enough to get the bolt through, if you take a tapered brass drift and a hammer you can drive the drift into the hole to get the holes lined up easier.

Also before you disassemble the front end take note of where your alignment adjustment cams are to make it easier to get the alignment back. You will still need an alignment but at least you’ll be close enough that the drive to the shop won’t be too scary.

mt_goat

Here is the vise I used to remove/install the bushings http://community.webshots.com/photo/...85947798gIQSCg (The long neck Bud is there to help judge the size). I don't even have it bolted down, I just used a C clamp or two to hold it down to my table saw. I like being able to move it around because I use it a lot when welding stuff.

Flamedx4

Ahh, yess, the heavy duty beerholder...

mt_goat

Yep, good beerholder for the King of beer.

Ok as far is getting the lower control arms (LCA's) off, in my case (3rd gen truck with torsion bars or t-bars) I first jacked up the truck's front end, removed the tires, and released all the spring tension from the t-bars by removing the t-bar adjustment bolt on each side. Here is a good write-up for t-bar adjustments http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/torsion/index.htm (mainly because I love the kid jacking up the front end). If you have coil overs you're on your own about how to release the spring force. Then I removed the shocks and disconnected the sway bar. The ball joint doesn't have to be pulled, just remove the 4 bolts from the top and keep the ball joint connected to the LCA, unless you are replacing the ball joints too (which is a good idea, but another topic). Then I removed the cam bolts and wiggled the LCA a lot until it fell off and hit my foot (don't do that).

At this point you could take the LCA's to your local mechanic and have him press out the old bushings and press in new ones, or try to do it yourself like I did with the big bad vise.

Like I said earlier the LCA's are easier to get off than to put back on. That is mainly because the bushings are being a little compressed when you are putting the arms back on. And gravity is now working against you, instead of helping you. Also you have to get the holes lined up now so you can get the cam bolts back in. I discovered that a floor jack under the LCA helped a lot to push the arm into it's home. It is definitely not brain surgery. If anyone can think of something I forgot let me know.

hodgepodge79

Thanks for the inputs.