rpeAMP

All,

I have spent tons on front brakes (pads, rotors) for my 92 and for the longest I couldn't figure out why. Here's the issue:

I heavily warp my rotors over a short period of time (a few thousand miles, maybe) because my rears keep coming out of adjustment. Literally, my parking brake will have a hard time holding at maximum tension (as I park on an incline and it's a 5 spd.) after 2 weeks after adjustment. When I adjust my rears correctly (actually I have my mechanic do it), I can feel the rear pulling it's own, and the parking brake holds real nice at about 15-20 clicks. However, slowly but surely over a few weeks time I can feel the rears coming out of adjustment as my nose dives more under even slight braking and my parking brake takes more tension to hold the truck.

So, not only does the parking brake have trouble holding the truck, but I end up warping the fronts due to all the heat caused by the increased stopping responsibility, which costs me more $.

Obviously the auto adjusters are not working; can these be replaced? What am I doing to cause such a rapid effect on the brakes? I am not a harsh driver, and I even use engine braking to help out. Is there something in the rears that can stop working or needs lubrication to work correctly? I really don't have the time to get these things adjusted every week.

BTW- It seemed to get worse (or so I think) when I had my rear wheel cylinders replaced. I have no idea what parts my mechanic used or even if this has anything to do with it.

Thanks in advance.

rpeAMP

Anyone?!

BruceTS

If your rear adjusters keep backing out, most likely it's the spring loaded tensioners that are attached to them are either worn or installed wrong. What they do is keep tension against the threaded toothed tensioner, so it don't back out and also work in conjunction with the auto adjusting system. I'm not 100% sure on your year model, but I've seen in the past when the tensioners were switched from left to the right side causing just the opposite. the auto adjusting system would loosen the brakes instead of tightening them. One being left handed threads and the other being right handed, you may want to check to see if they're in the right way.

rpeAMP

Thanks so much for your reply.

It's interesting, because I think they installed these when they changed the cylinders out. It also makes perfect sense as it seems like clockwork.

Are these the springs that I see at the top right above the adjustment mechanism and right below the cylinder when I pop off the drum? If so, how might I tell if they are installed wrong? What I really want to do is show these guys that--if that's the problem.

I've literally spent thousands on brakes in the past year due to them poorly installing stuff and giving me metallic pads when the sold me ceramics. The metallics are harder on the rotors and add to the trouble. It's awful.

BruceTS

O.K. and easy way to see if you have side specific adjusters is by checking the linkage. If it appears to be a mirror image of each other then they are side specific, or check to see if one has left handed threads and the other has right handed. If they are side specific then check the actuating mechanism. If you apply the brakes, you see what direction the lever will move, usually up. I can't remember which thread goes on which side, but usually they are marked "L" and "R". You'll be able to tell if it's working properly if the adjuster unscrews, when the brakes are applied. If they don't do anything then something isn't installed properly. You can test this with the drum off but becareful not to pump the brakes, you blow out the slave cylinder. Just enough to see the pads move out and the linkage move the adjuster.