Complete parts list for timing belt change?
#1
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Complete parts list for timing belt change?
I've searched but didn't find a thread actually listing the parts.
I'm looking for a detailed list of parts (seals and components) that are required or should be changed when the timing belt is changed on a 3.4l.
I'm looking for a detailed list of parts (seals and components) that are required or should be changed when the timing belt is changed on a 3.4l.
#2
Contributing Member
The list is pretty easy.
The part numbers should all be in here as well as the info on how to do it:
http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.ph...27277#msg27277
- Timing Belt
- #1 idler (optional)
- #2 idler (optional)
- Tensioner (optional)
- Waterpump (optional, but highly suggested!!!)
- (2) Cam seals (optional)
- (1) Crank seal (optional)
- (3) Ascessory belts (optional, but might as well replace if they show any signs of deterioration)
- Coolant
The part numbers should all be in here as well as the info on how to do it:
http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.ph...27277#msg27277
Last edited by MTL_4runner; 12-28-2007 at 09:43 AM.
#3
If you're looking for parts pricing. I got autozone to price match the duralast that they keep in the store w/ lifetime warentee that's $70 I think to one you can order from them that's a lifetime warentee and is like $25-35.
I replaced all my belts with goodyears from autozone too. It wasn't hard for me and it was my first time doing a timeing belt. Autozone gave me a print out of directions, I had a Hayes manual too. Between the two it was simple. I also too a lot of the front end off thinking to get a straight shot but didn't want to dissconect the AC lines.
My big delay was that I couldn't get the old tensioner off and rounded a bolt head. I had to grind the old bolt head off and order a new tensioner cause I got into it with the grinder. And If I were to do it again I would look at buying or making something to hold my cam gears in place while putting the belt on. That was a PITA too and would have save a couple of hours of swearing.
I replaced all my belts with goodyears from autozone too. It wasn't hard for me and it was my first time doing a timeing belt. Autozone gave me a print out of directions, I had a Hayes manual too. Between the two it was simple. I also too a lot of the front end off thinking to get a straight shot but didn't want to dissconect the AC lines.
My big delay was that I couldn't get the old tensioner off and rounded a bolt head. I had to grind the old bolt head off and order a new tensioner cause I got into it with the grinder. And If I were to do it again I would look at buying or making something to hold my cam gears in place while putting the belt on. That was a PITA too and would have save a couple of hours of swearing.
Last edited by pkt1213; 12-28-2007 at 10:58 AM.
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks for the input!
I get all my OEM parts @ cost but wasn't sure what exactly I needed for a DIY timing belt. My 4Runner only has 55k miles, but it's a 2000 so I think it's about due for a TB change.
I get all my OEM parts @ cost but wasn't sure what exactly I needed for a DIY timing belt. My 4Runner only has 55k miles, but it's a 2000 so I think it's about due for a TB change.
#5
Registered User
- Timing Belt
- #1 idler (optional)
- #2 idler (optional)
- Tensioner (optional)
- Waterpump (optional, but highly suggested!!!)
- (2) Cam seals (optional)
- (1) Crank seal (optional)
- (3) Ascessory belts (optional, but might as well replace if they show any signs of deterioration)
- Coolant
If you don't want to take the truck apart again for another 100k miles, then definately do the waterpump and both bearings. Also change the thermostat (I prefer genuine ones). Change the accessory belts while it's apart.
To do it without special tools you drop the hydraulic tensioner down until the bolts are hanging on by 2 threads.... then simply tighten the bolts back up when you get it back together.
#7
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Thread Starter
I thought it was 7 years/90k miles? I'll probably wait another 6 months or so but I don't want to push it. Of course, as I understand it the 3400 isn't an intrusive engine w/ it comes to cam belt failure so I guess the risk is less. Still not something I want to experience.
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#8
Registered User
Meh, those belts are super wide, and won't be a problem to run past 100k miles. If you have a noisy waterpump bearing, that's a different story.
I've seen those belts at 200,000km (125,000 miles) and they looked fine.
Cheers!
I've seen those belts at 200,000km (125,000 miles) and they looked fine.
Cheers!
#11
Contributing Member
It's not the timing belt breaking that will do all the damage, it's the waterpump going that's the total buzzkiller. That belt is getting a bit old but I'm sure it would make it to 10yr / 100k since they are fairly rubust in design. Heck, if you don't care about getting stranded, just drive it until it breaks (sarcasm). Most people would prefer to do their maintenance (even a little early) rather than be SOL by the side of the road some cold dark night.
#12
As far as I know the 3400 isn't an interferance so in theroy if the belt breaks it'll just leave you stranded. One reason this was the first timing belt I changed. If I screwed up the timing or anything I wouldn't slam things into the valves.
Good luck. Not that hard.
Good luck. Not that hard.
#13
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Check the belt for cracking first. Definitely go for OEM parts. My 4Runner had the timing belt changed at 80k but just the belt. I just did it at 155k and changed out everything mentioned in the first response posted here. Are you planning on doing this yourself? If so, there's supposed to be a special service tool to get the water pump off. It was a real pain to do with without the tool.
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Taking off the crank pully with a proper metric puller set and a heavy duty ( 1,000 ft. lbs.) impact was easy. Retightening it was a pain in the a**. Two people on 30" torque wrench and steel hold back plate against frame rail. As for mileage, I replaced my 02 4runners timing belt at 160,000 miles and the sucker looked brand new. If you are going to go through all the pain and swearing of replacing the belt, you might as well replace everything in there. To access the tensioner bolts, you should loosen up the air condiotioner bracket from the motor. I tried to do it with out, and almost stripped the head of the bolts off.
#18
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Thread Starter
Taking off the crank pully with a proper metric puller set and a heavy duty ( 1,000 ft. lbs.) impact was easy. Retightening it was a pain in the a**. Two people on 30" torque wrench and steel hold back plate against frame rail. As for mileage, I replaced my 02 4runners timing belt at 160,000 miles and the sucker looked brand new. If you are going to go through all the pain and swearing of replacing the belt, you might as well replace everything in there. To access the tensioner bolts, you should loosen up the air condiotioner bracket from the motor. I tried to do it with out, and almost stripped the head of the bolts off.
#19
The list is pretty easy.
The part numbers should all be in here as well as the info on how to do it:
http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.ph...27277#msg27277
- Timing Belt
- #1 idler (optional)
- #2 idler (optional)
- Tensioner (optional)
- Waterpump (optional, but highly suggested!!!)
- (2) Cam seals (optional)
- (1) Crank seal (optional)
- (3) Ascessory belts (optional, but might as well replace if they show any signs of deterioration)
- Coolant
The part numbers should all be in here as well as the info on how to do it:
http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.ph...27277#msg27277
you forgot to mention the thermostat, imo just as important to replace as the water pump
#20
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Im getting read to have this done. Is there a way to determine wheather #1 idler, #2 idler,& tensioner need to be replaced? If it should be done I will do it but if its not needed then I could save $175+
If I dont get them and it needs to be done... I cant have it waiting for parts to come in if I do need something.
If I dont get them and it needs to be done... I cant have it waiting for parts to come in if I do need something.