Chevy rear swap question
#1
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Chevy rear swap question
I know a lot of you people out there are running the 88-98 Chevy rears. And a lot of you use a dual shackle setup. My questoins are:
1: is the dual shackle setup unpredictable in an off camber situation?
2: is there anybody out there running a Buggy spring setup instead?
3: How do the Chevies flex without the dual shackle setup?
4: How would I get around a 5 inch lift using the chevies without running blocks?
Any feedback on this would be appreciated
1: is the dual shackle setup unpredictable in an off camber situation?
2: is there anybody out there running a Buggy spring setup instead?
3: How do the Chevies flex without the dual shackle setup?
4: How would I get around a 5 inch lift using the chevies without running blocks?
Any feedback on this would be appreciated
#2
1. I don't think so if done correctly
2. I don't know
3. I don't know we run a dual setup
4. Keep deaming, your looking at 4" of lift in a pickup and 3" in a 4Runner. The entire point of useing the springs is that they are soft, if you add leafs or make them stiffer you have defeated the purpose.
The other thing that I think very few realize is that the Chevy bushings are just like the Toyota bushings in the 3rd Gen lower control arms. The rubber is meant to flex and the inner sleeve has grip spikes, you following this? The rubber moves not the bolt pivot. If you use the Chevy shakle, which has the same grip spikes on the rear of the springs and you make a custom shakle for the Toyota frame to Chevy spring that is your best bet. The spiked bushings act as springs to pull the dual shakle back in the correct direction and it will never invert. You'll also need to shim the springs becase the front mount will then be on the flat part of the frame and the front of the diff will then in turn point downward. You'll also need to lower the bump stop points because if you push the Chevys beyond perfectly flat you'll sag em.
It works really well if you do it right, from what I have seen on Pirate, most miss the boat.
Here is ours:
http://fastq.com/~sschaefer/store.html#63Chevy
2. I don't know
3. I don't know we run a dual setup
4. Keep deaming, your looking at 4" of lift in a pickup and 3" in a 4Runner. The entire point of useing the springs is that they are soft, if you add leafs or make them stiffer you have defeated the purpose.
The other thing that I think very few realize is that the Chevy bushings are just like the Toyota bushings in the 3rd Gen lower control arms. The rubber is meant to flex and the inner sleeve has grip spikes, you following this? The rubber moves not the bolt pivot. If you use the Chevy shakle, which has the same grip spikes on the rear of the springs and you make a custom shakle for the Toyota frame to Chevy spring that is your best bet. The spiked bushings act as springs to pull the dual shakle back in the correct direction and it will never invert. You'll also need to shim the springs becase the front mount will then be on the flat part of the frame and the front of the diff will then in turn point downward. You'll also need to lower the bump stop points because if you push the Chevys beyond perfectly flat you'll sag em.
It works really well if you do it right, from what I have seen on Pirate, most miss the boat.
Here is ours:
http://fastq.com/~sschaefer/store.html#63Chevy
#5
Originally Posted by sschaefer3
4. Keep deaming, your looking at 4" of lift in a pickup and 3" in a 4Runner. The entire point of useing the springs is that they are soft, if you add leafs or make them stiffer you have defeated the purpose.
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