Hi all,

A few months back I pulled my 21' boat with the 4Runner. It is a '00 SR5 2WD, 137K miles. Parking the boat back near the house was a real task due to the road configuration. A few times I smelt some burning and assumed it was the trans! I wasn't happy with myself for putting the 4Runner through this chore and have not done it again since.
I have not seen any signs that the trans is not working correctly. However, last time at the oil change place, they said they noticed the trans fluid looked darker than it should. They suggested a flush for $140! That seemed really expensive to me.
I've worked on cars a good deal before. Swapped motors, converted autos to 5spds etc, just have not done a ton of work on the 4Runner b/c there has not been a need to!
How hard is it to change the trans fluid on the 4Runner is what I'm trying to ask! Haha!

Thanks,
Mike

 

Dude if you've done that kind of work on cars before you should already know how to do a simple trans fluid change. I dont care how good our trucks and SUV's are they still need some tlc every now and then.

If you want to flush it out yourself disconnect the return line which would be on the drivers side and stick the line in a bucket, have a buddy start the truck up, pump out about 4 qrts, shut her down and add 4 qrts of new fluid, repeat till its bright red. Depending how bad the fluid is it should take a full case it not more. Since you going this far i would add a secondary cooler as well.

 

x2^^ Its simple, and barely takes anytime. I dont know if I would let it pump 4 qts bfore shutting her down....you could also add as she drains...you wont b able to keep up with the pump tho, so make sure you shut her down and top off every couple quarts.

 

Thanks for the info!
I do need to get a trans cooler on there too!

Mike

 

Do I have to start it up to pump the fluid out or can I let gravity take over? I may not have a helper around or available.

This may be a stupid question....but how do I know if I have put enough fluid back in? I don't want to underfill or overfill. I also assume I add the fluid from the dipstick tube.

Thanks,
Mike

 

Yeah don't go 4 quarts before shutting down, that would drain whole pan and you don't want the pump sucking air. I'd go 2 at a time myself.

On the refill, there is a dip stick to check the level But you do need to check the level with the engine running. Final topping off should be done with the ATF at normal operational temps.

As long as you add as much as you take out you should stay pretty close. I use a 5 gal bucket and mark the side with a marker for quarts (you can measure and add water first to calibrate the marks) You really need a helper for this job, just someone to sit behind the wheel to start and stop the engine on command.

 

Yes, the pump will circulate the ATF though all the passages, torque converter, ATF cooler, lines etc... with gravity you'll just change about 1/3 of the ATF.

 

Yea...as mt_goat said....you should have a helper...especially the first time you do it. I did it my self the last couple times....if your fast you can do it...just dont let the pump suck air....wont take long to burn it out, as it is cooled by the fluid.

 

Thanks for all the info. I will probably get my dad to come over and help.
I'm also thinking of adding some Lucas Trans treatment just for extra protection. If the trans is going south b/c of me pulling the boat earlier this summer I need to try to buy as much time as possible as I don't have the funds now for a new or trans overhaul.

I was reading online that if the ATF is burnt smelling or dark already you shouldn't change the fluid b/c for some reason putting new fluid will kill the trans right away?? Any one hear of this before?

Thanks,
Mike

 

sounds like @ 137K you havent already done this, at least once.

ive heard similiar rationale, just start w/small changes.
if you dont change it, the tranny is gonna die anyway...

 

That would be the last thing I would do. If its running ok, theres no need to use additive, in fact, it is possible that will cause you more problems, Iwould just flush it, and leave it be, those additives are good if you already have a problem to buy you time.

 

I actually had the trans flushed a little over a year ago at 114K at the dealer when it was in having the valve cover gaskets replaced.
When I was in for an oil change about 4K miles ago the techs said they checks the trans fluid and it seemed dark. I figured this was due to me pulling my boat earlier this summer and I smelt something burning. I probably got the trans a bit too hot. Thus my thinking it needs another flush.
The dealer charged me $125 to do it last time. Wonder how much $$ I'll actually save doing it myself. I used to do a ton of regular maintenance myself in the past but over the last year or two have found once ya get all the parts/materials lined up and clean up it is less time to just go and have it done. I've had really good experiences at my dealer (surprisingly).
Also...I assume regular trans fluid...no synthetic if I have not been running it in the past.

Thanks,
Mike

 

You should need a full case of juice to fully flush the trans... last time, I think it cost me $26 for a case....I also bought the cheapo stuff, cuz I leak.

 

I just had my tranny totally flushed and filled yesterday. I started pulling my 1000 lb jetski , I too was smelling some burning.. The truck was in for an alternator replacement so i figured that while it was in do the flush... the flush it self from the dealer was $200 and the ALT was $280(plus 2 hrs labor at$100+) and and oilchange all in all it was $700 out the door... some of you guy with your prices... really shock me!
the local shops in the area are not much cheaper than the dealership! so that why i go there. I do have some piece of mine now..

 

$200 for a tranny flush!! Holy shnikees!! Usually around $100 around here, tho, I have never had the stealership do it.

 

i guess that fancy machine is pretty expensive! i wonder if most shops have it or do they just do drain fill routine.