CEL only on highway
#83
#85
#87
It has all new coil packs. I called the dealership before I took it in today. I explained everything that had been done to it. The service writer was very nice and asked me to bring the list with the truck so they could skip looking at that. I took it in and there was a female service writer. She was not very friendly and didn't care that it had new plugs, wires, coils etc. She said they would probably replace those and I would have to pay for it. I was like hell no I am not paying for something I already did! I said put new whatever but if it doesn't work take it off and put my stuff back on and don't charge me.
#88
Hey 98Runner210
I've have had similar issues Codes P0302 P0305 #2 and #5 cylinder misfire I have pretty much done what you have and finally took it to the dealer... it came back that the timing sprocket and key were worn creating erratic timing change, so after replacing the CEL is no longer an issue and power is back!
BTW I have 250,OOO KMS (not miles) on my 99 LTD.
I've have had similar issues Codes P0302 P0305 #2 and #5 cylinder misfire I have pretty much done what you have and finally took it to the dealer... it came back that the timing sprocket and key were worn creating erratic timing change, so after replacing the CEL is no longer an issue and power is back!
BTW I have 250,OOO KMS (not miles) on my 99 LTD.
#89
Hey Dre, the reason Your keyway was worn is that the last time Your timing belt was replaced the pulley bolt was not torqued properly, 98's truck only has 78k and should still have original belt. If the part is new dosent mean it's good, although it does increase the odds. My money is on a new, cracked spark plug. Thanks Kiwi
Last edited by Kiwipushrod; Feb 5, 2008 at 03:55 PM.
#90
Thanks Kiwi for you knowledge... so when they replace a timing belt they most likely would replace the keyway? I was thinking maybe I had the original keyway and all they replaced was the belt (the first time).
Sorry 98Runner210 I may be of no help to you!
Sorry 98Runner210 I may be of no help to you!
#92
Hey Dre,
I apoligize for not being clear, if the pulley bolt or nut is not tight, the pulley and key or keyway will rock back and forth on it's shaft, at every cam lobe tug on the belt. Times this by rpm and a few thousand miles, You've got a pulley that no longer holds is postion accurately. Thank You Kiwi
I apoligize for not being clear, if the pulley bolt or nut is not tight, the pulley and key or keyway will rock back and forth on it's shaft, at every cam lobe tug on the belt. Times this by rpm and a few thousand miles, You've got a pulley that no longer holds is postion accurately. Thank You Kiwi
#93
I took it in and there was a female service writer. She was not very friendly and didn't care that it had new plugs, wires, coils etc. She said they would probably replace those and I would have to pay for it. I was like hell no I am not paying for something I already did! I said put new whatever but if it doesn't work take it off and put my stuff back on and don't charge me.
#94
No, they don't replace the woodruff key. The crank pulley just needs to be torqued properly. You'll see it with a timing light if it is an issue because the timing will bounce all over the place at idle. The crank bolt needs to be at least 217 ft-lbs to hold properly.
#95
Dealership called.....said they suspect bent valves. I asked them how would the valves get bent? This is a non-interference motor/ why would it run good sometimes? Did they do a compression test? They didn't do a compression test. They said the motor was loud on the drivers side head where the misfires are. I asked them about valve adjustment. They said this sounds different. Another $400 to either prove them right or wrong. Thats not a $400 gamble I want to take.
#96
Dealership called.....said they suspect bent valves. I asked them how would the valves get bent? This is a non-interference motor/ why would it run good sometimes? Did they do a compression test? They didn't do a compression test. They said the motor was loud on the drivers side head where the misfires are. I asked them about valve adjustment. They said this sounds different. Another $400 to either prove them right or wrong. Thats not a $400 gamble I want to take.
They want $400 for a leakdown and compression test?!
#97
Hey 98,
Run for your wallet, get that truck out of there, and find an independent shop thru word of mouth. Ask them to do a comp. test on the bank in question. DO NOT tell them Your whole long story! Should cost $50-$100.
If the comp. is good, ask them to adjust Your valves. If not, Plan B.
Then You will have Your Answer. Thanks Kiwi
Run for your wallet, get that truck out of there, and find an independent shop thru word of mouth. Ask them to do a comp. test on the bank in question. DO NOT tell them Your whole long story! Should cost $50-$100.
If the comp. is good, ask them to adjust Your valves. If not, Plan B.
Then You will have Your Answer. Thanks Kiwi
Last edited by Kiwipushrod; Feb 6, 2008 at 12:52 PM.
#98
Not sure if this is your issue or not but worth a look anyway.
http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.ph...37052#msg37052
.....seems fairly relevant considering your symptoms.
http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.ph...37052#msg37052
.....seems fairly relevant considering your symptoms.
#99
they wanted $400 to pull the heads to take a look. They called and said they checked every possible thing. I went and got the truck and they said this was the first time they were not able to diagnose a vehicle and had to let it go still acting up. A few of the service writers asked if i would call if and when i figured it out. They really want to know what it is.
#100
they wanted $400 to pull the heads to take a look. They called and said they checked every possible thing. I went and got the truck and they said this was the first time they were not able to diagnose a vehicle and had to let it go still acting up. A few of the service writers asked if i would call if and when i figured it out. They really want to know what it is.


