Brake Caliper Hardware--4runner vs Tundra
#1
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Brake Caliper Hardware--4runner vs Tundra
So i am wondering whether using the hardware from the 4runner calipers on my Tundra upgrade could be causing my calipers to seize?
The 4runner design looked better and i figured it was just a cheaper design for the tundra hardware....anyways, the front drivers side caliper is sticking like a motha....anybody had any issues like this before?
Either way I will be redoing the front brakes this weekend and taking a look at my little ol calipers....
Thanks in advance
Henry
The 4runner design looked better and i figured it was just a cheaper design for the tundra hardware....anyways, the front drivers side caliper is sticking like a motha....anybody had any issues like this before?
Either way I will be redoing the front brakes this weekend and taking a look at my little ol calipers....
Thanks in advance
Henry
#3
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Thread Starter
4runner OEM have:
1. A wire piece that locks in the Disc brake pad pins and then hooks into a hole in the caliper halfway between each pin
2. then a little "T" looking type bracket that slides on the top of the pads and hooks onto the middle of each pin
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1266&ppt=C0064
Tundra OEM--has
1. A wire piece that locks in the Disc brake pad pins and then hooks into a hole in the caliper halfway between each pin
2. Then 2 other wire pieces
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1266&ppt=C0064
So i think i messed up.....
1. A wire piece that locks in the Disc brake pad pins and then hooks into a hole in the caliper halfway between each pin
2. then a little "T" looking type bracket that slides on the top of the pads and hooks onto the middle of each pin
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1266&ppt=C0064
Tundra OEM--has
1. A wire piece that locks in the Disc brake pad pins and then hooks into a hole in the caliper halfway between each pin
2. Then 2 other wire pieces
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1266&ppt=C0064
So i think i messed up.....
#5
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I'll be looking in on this thread as well. When I put my Tundra brakes on I was having some problems and ended up putting the old 4runner stuff back on until I figured out what was wrong with the Tundras. Seems I didn't rebuild the Tundra calipers correctly with the little rubber boots on the pistons, I think. So, I rebuilt the old 4runner calipers and put new rotors and pads on as well, and ever since I've had a crazy jerk to one side (depends on the slant of the street) under hard braking. I didn't know if this was an air bubble that didn't get bled or what. Nevertheless I want to double check what the components are and where they go to make sure I do it correctly when I put the Tundras back on. Would be nice if there was a step by step on how to rebuild the calipers, the rebuild kit from Toyota has some pink grease with it but after asking on here no one knew what it was for.
#6
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I will be pulling down the front end of the truck today. I would take some pictures but they are a pain in the but to post on here. I think the 4runner hardware along with sticky pins caused my little issue. In the long run i might think about seeing whether Wilwood or somebody has a better caliper--and run Yellow stuff EBC's.
#7
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pattycakes77 the pink grease that is shipped with the rebuild kit is to put on the new seals of the pistons when they first go in it makes it easier to reassemble everything and you definitely need those rubber boots around the pistons bc that is what keeps dust off of them that could scratch the machined surface causing the brakes not to function properly due to a leak
and to answer the question about the hardware i think that if u have it u have it and if u dont u dont haha the only job that they perform is that they spread the pads away from the caliper when you let off the brakes now if you dont have them then the pads might slightly touch the rotors but there should b no harm done
and to answer the question about the hardware i think that if u have it u have it and if u dont u dont haha the only job that they perform is that they spread the pads away from the caliper when you let off the brakes now if you dont have them then the pads might slightly touch the rotors but there should b no harm done
Last edited by Kerby J; 06-21-2010 at 02:04 PM.
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#8
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Ah HA! The mystery of the pink goo has been solved! I think I actually did use that to lube the seals after scratching my head for awhile. The boots I did seal around the lip of the caliper but I didn't seat around the top of the piston so they were torn up when I checked the brakes the next time. I think I figured this out finally, third times a charm right?
pattycakes77 the pink grease that is shipped with the rebuild kit is to put on the new seals of the pistons when they first go in it makes it easier to reassemble everything and you definitely need those rubber boots around the pistons bc that is what keeps dust off of them that could scratch the machined surface causing the brakes not to function properly due to a leak
and to answer the question about the hardware i think that if u have it u have it and if u dont u dont haha the only job that they perform is that they spread the pads away from the caliper when you let off the brakes now if you dont have them then the pads might slightly touch the rotors but there should b no harm done
and to answer the question about the hardware i think that if u have it u have it and if u dont u dont haha the only job that they perform is that they spread the pads away from the caliper when you let off the brakes now if you dont have them then the pads might slightly touch the rotors but there should b no harm done
#9
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Thread Starter
REALLY wouldnt mind finding a Wilwood parts number--just for giggles
Anyways--it was very strange because the brakes were really stuck--i mean it took some effort to turn the wheel.....I took off the rubber brake lines to see whether they had swollen and were retaining pressure--but nope (going to replace the rubber and steel line with a quality braided steel anyways). It is strange and it is starting to make me scratch my head. I dont think it is the master cylinder because when they go bad they either leak or lose pressure. HOWEVER, the MC is a weird design with both out lines being in the middle of the MC body.......
I am going to put back on the small calipers and see if that makes a difference....if everything operates as it should then i know there is nothing odd happening and it was just the calipers.......
So--Wilwood--i also like that they are so light in comparison to our BRICKS
Anyways--it was very strange because the brakes were really stuck--i mean it took some effort to turn the wheel.....I took off the rubber brake lines to see whether they had swollen and were retaining pressure--but nope (going to replace the rubber and steel line with a quality braided steel anyways). It is strange and it is starting to make me scratch my head. I dont think it is the master cylinder because when they go bad they either leak or lose pressure. HOWEVER, the MC is a weird design with both out lines being in the middle of the MC body.......
I am going to put back on the small calipers and see if that makes a difference....if everything operates as it should then i know there is nothing odd happening and it was just the calipers.......
So--Wilwood--i also like that they are so light in comparison to our BRICKS
#10
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update--put the old stuff back on and it works like a charm again....so well i might even see my gas mileage increase from 10 mpg's. The tundra brakes were dragging bad. BUT, i dont think it was the brakes fault. I had an oil leak and i think to much of something got on the inside pads and made them wear like crap. I am just going to roll the old stuff until it goes bad and then revisit the set up
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