I'm going to do them because I live in a community thats on the side of a mountain and would like the extra heat capacity. Plus its a one time investment. After they are done you just got to do your brakes like everyone else.

When I was working retail people would always wonder why their brakes would wear out so fast. Then I ask them if they ride their brakes down all the hills. It can only take one time to warp a rotor.

 

No need for me to comment any further.......Midget is right, everyone else (including Toyota) is a fool considering all the empirical evidence of any such brake swaps means nothing since aparently they used the exact same brakes on both the Tundra and the 4runner despite the 1/2 ton difference in vehicle weight and 1 ton difference in towing capacity.

 

I just put my pre-recall tundra brakes on my 2wd (previously 15" wheel) auto 2.7L 4runner (has 17" tundra wheels) so I figure I might share some info/opinions...

I didnt think it was this long when I typed it :-( sorry

The stock rotors were 11.5" the tundra was 12.5" also the weight and width of the rotor is a pretty drastic change, possibly a 0.5" width difference or so but unfortunately close to 6-7lbs heavier...at least.

The brakes feel is very smooth and provide more braking power but more importantly its easier to modulate (no ABS) than the stock set up with the 15s... the feedback result (better modulation/braking power) is mostly b/c of the additional brake torque provided by the larger diameter rotor but also b/c the pad contact patch (pad to rotor) on the tundra is considerably more compared to the brakes that come on the base model. You also have to take in account the tire contact patch in which this case is rather close since I'm running 235/70/17s AT's to try them out before I decide to jump to something bigger... and no, it does not look ridiculous unless I park next to a runner with 285s


I do quite a bit or racing and, on occasion, am hired as a consultant on related projects. Each scenario is different but the wider rotor advantage only comes into play once you reach particular heat thresholds...

In the example of the 231mm vs the 199mm width calipers from what I can see, is the pads backing plate thickness (not sure if anyone mentioned this) It's actually quite common when road racing certain cars that the backing plate simply is not designed to withstand that level of heat and braking which results in a warped backing plate which will yield rotor hot spots. A situation on the street like this will cause warped rotors very easily as heating up the rotor isn't always the problem but the fluctuation of heating then cooling.

One advantage that is... possible... is when braking from 80mph to low speeds like 20mph, in this case (maybe) the thicker rotor can absorb and possibly dissipate the heat before it transfers to the pad compound at which point the pad is overheated and braking power decreases.

In reality though this is always dependent on too many variables so its hard to say what does what in the Tundra vs. 4runner brakes; as for braking distance itself I will site this example:

I commonly have clients wanting to go from std porsche brakes to GT3 ceramics to the tune of about $13,500 (the rotors cost $3k...each!) on the street (70-0mph) the brakes feel just about the same minus the fact that they weigh considerably less but stopping distance between the best brembo brakes (not the ones you see can buy retail- lookup brembo gtr) is less than 15 feet but from 160-30mph its a completely different story.

I hope this helps someone... if not at least look up the brembo gtr brakes

 

The 2003-2008 4Runner uses the 13WL setup also. Presumably the FJC does too.

Just ordered these parts to do the swap too as I'm tired of pulsating brakes. It probably doesn't help that I tow a 3500lb travel trailer over 9600ft grades and 14% slopes at 65mph. Now I just need to solve my alignment problems where the truck pulls left (hard) when braking...

 

After running the Tundra setup for a couple of months now I'm totally impressed with the conistency of the brakes. I tow a 3500lb travel trailer too and the Tundra setup has so much more reserve stop after stop. These brakes really shrug the heat off like the stock ones couldn't. Of course those of you who have done this mod already know how good it really is.

60-0 on cold brakes isn't really much better than stock because the tires and suspension are the limiting factor. The modulation is better with the bigger calipers for threshold braking but tire traction is what it is. If I installed the Pzero rubber from my IS350 maybe it would help stop shorter.

Thanks to all those who made this thread possible!

 

Just a bit to add to this for discussion I guess. I didn't read all the posts in great detail, but to those that said that the Tundra brakes would not stop the truck better because the only difference is that the rotors are thicker, is that actually the only difference? Has anybody measured the pistons? If the pistons are bigger in diameter than the 4Runner caliper pistons, than braking force would increase because brake system pressure would be the same (although bigger diameter pistons would require a bit more brake pedal travel to apply the same pressure as before because of the increased system volume, but this may be negligible).

Same pressure against bigger area = bigger force... i.e. better braking.

 

You're on the fence huh?

My brake pedal travel decreased dramaticly but I think my old calipers had problems too. The components are bigger and they are a redesign by Toyota to work better. They do. If you are having to replace stuff on your 4Runner, these will work better. No need to measure anything but the results from people who have done the swap. Why argue to put smaller components back on? There's very little cost difference and there's nothing to lose and everything to gain.

What needs to happen is a call out from people who did the swap and think it's a waste; not from those who haven't done it.

 

OK, well sorry about posting if you think I shouldn't have (because I currently don't have Tundra brakes)... just trying to add a bit of common sense physics to the mix... that's all. And yes, I'm possibly looking at upgrading. My friend did the upgrade on his Tacoma a few months ago, now he's selling the Tacoma and wanted to put his stock 15" wheels back on, so he had to remove the Tundra setup. My newish stock rotors (aftermarket) are warped already, so I'm thinking now would be the time to upgrade.

 

I did the upgrade on my 98 3rd gen and with the only modification I had to do was to file a tiny bit off the dust shield on the low cutout portion. It would rub slightly on the wheel but after that, I get just as good or better stopping power. I have had to really lean hard on them twice (read that panic stop) and they did the job very nicely, no bent sheet metal! Once you do the mod you will be happy with the results. Kinda fun to go into Midas and have then "check" your brakes, messes with their head! Overall I have enjoyed the swap. I put the calipers off a 2001 Tundra. Had the rotors turned, cleaned and scuffed the pads, installed everything on my 4runner and seated the pads. Works gr8!

 

I've got the 199 calipers lined up...now should i go with blank brembos like these http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...ar=&perfCode=P

or go with some that are cross-drilled and slotted by stop-tech performance for a little more money?

 

Here's a question I haven't seen an answer to yet. I've got a 2002 4Runner with the stock 16" steel wheels. Does anybody know if the larger 231mm Tundra calipers will rub on those? So far, all I've seen referenced about the 231mm calipers and wheel interference (requiring grinding) has been with regard to the stock 16" alloys.

I can buy slightly used 231mm calipers, rotors and pads from my friend here locally who just sold his Tacoma (and kept the components from the Tundra upgrade). I plan on doing a test fit at some point in the next couple of weeks, so I will post the results, but if somebody knows, maybe you can save me the trouble.

 

Well, I did some quick measurements tonight of the 231mm tundra calipers and rotors, and my stock steel wheels (without taking the wheel off the truck, so it wasn't very precise) All I can say at this point is if it fits, it will be really close. I'm going to do a test fit on the weekend, and I'll post back up the results.

 

I'd think the 199mm would be more than adequate for the 4Runner. Less hassle than the 231's. That's the route I would go if I were doing this swap. But if your friend already has those parts and you're getting them cheap, it's probably worth that extra effort. Hope it all fits and you won't have to grind off any parts. I get a bit queasy when someone mentions grinding on the calipers...

 

I agree that the 199mm would be more than adequate for the 4Runner, and like you mention, the 231mm would be strictly due to getting a good price locally, and I don't plan on making it fit by grinding. If they fit, I'll use them, and if not, he'll put them up for sale. They worked on his 1999 Tacoma with no grinding, but he had aftermarket 16"x8" Procomp black alloys with 4" backspacing (the ones that they sell at Wheeler's Offroad).

 

Well, I tried the large (231mm) Tundra brake calipers and rotors on my 4Runner today, and they fit with no grinding of the calipers or the wheels. Like all the other Tundra upgrade installs, I did have to trim the dust shield a bit above and below the caliper. Just thought I'd post up to try to keep as much info as possible about the different Tundra upgrade configurations in this thread. My 4Runner originally had the larger 4Runner brake package and stopped fine, but the rotors always warped soon after they were installed.

The specifics of my installation are as follows:

MY VEHICLE
2002 4Runner, V6, Auto, 4x4, with the Stock 16" Steel Wheels

MY "NEW" PARTS
Two remanufactured 2005 Tundra Calipers (13WL)
Two OEM 2005 Tundra Rotors (43512-0C011)
Akebono pads for 2005 Tundra from NAPA

The Tundra upgrade parts were bought used from my friend... he ran them on his 1999 Tacoma for the last 5 months. Not many miles were put on the truck in that time.

I took some fine grit sandpaper (180 grit) and lightly sanded the rotors to knock off the fine coating of pad material. I also lightly sanded the pad surfaces to remove the light glazing. Cleaned everything off with brake cleaner, installed the rotors, calipers and pads, bled the system, then off I went to re-bed the pads. After having bed the pads and done a bit of testing, I can only say WOW! Awesome mod.

The brakes on the 4Runner in my opinion had always stopped the truck very well, but the shuddering was very annoying. That is completely gone now, braking is very smooth, and the truck stops quicker than before.

As far as clearance with the steel wheels, it's not excessive, but there is approximately 3/32" between the wheel "spokes" and the edge of the caliper. There is plenty of clearance (same as stock) between the inside surface of the rim and the caliper.

 

I would also like to add that the steel wheel on my spare tire does not clear the new Tundra 231mm calipers, therefore if I have a flat on the front, I'll have to put the spare on the rear and move the rear tire to the front.

 

I would like to do the Tundra brake upgrade, and I'm looking for some of the 199mm calipers, so if you know where I can find some please let me know. I've also left some messages on tundrasolutions.com.

Where can I buy some new OEM style rotors for cheap?

Any recommendations for pads?

Thanks,
Jason

 

www.partsamerica.com has calipers and rotors and you can return the cores at a Kragen or mail them back. Just search 2004 Tundra.

 

I have a 99 limited and I did the tundra upgrade with 199 calipers about a year ago. I used napa parts with ceramic pads. My problem is that the rotors are warped again and it does not stop like it should. I think it stopped better with the old setup and I am thinking of going back to oem parts. When the abs kicks in on the snow the truck rolls a long way and does not stop very well. I does get better if I get some heat into the brakes. I thought this bigger setup would cure all my problems and now I don't know what to do. What is the best pad for stopping power. any suggestions would be great.

 

Organic pads! By the time you get enough heat into ceramic pads you've probably created hot spot on the rotors. Even Carbon Metallic pads require heat before they work right. Organics will work the best on a vehicle that will not be raced. I don't even like Metallic pads. Lifetime warranty pads are the last ones you want. You want pads that wear out; not pads that wear out rotors.

I have had no problems on my Tundra swap with ordinary pads. Even my IS350 has pads that wear and dust like crazy but it brakes hard and fast.