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Beware: Power Steering air control valve

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Mar 11, 2013 | 10:01 AM

#21

Notraps

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From: New Mexico

Quote:

Originally Posted by brianh699

The part shown earlier in this thread is $70 plus $10 to ship here https://parts.tituswilltoyota.com/pa...r_search.html?

Thank you Sir.

Mar 12, 2013 | 12:22 PM

#22

Notraps

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From: New Mexico

Quote:

Originally Posted by brianh699

The part shown earlier in this thread is $70 plus $10 to ship here https://parts.tituswilltoyota.com/pa...r_search.html?

Just out of curiosity...is there a reason that they have a disconnected number? Seems a little fishy to me.

Edit...NM I'm slow today

Last edited by Notraps; Mar 12, 2013 at 12:26 PM.

Mar 12, 2013 | 12:42 PM

#23

DeathCougar

Donny, you're out of your element

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From: Marysville, WA

I assure you the largest Toyota dealer in Tacoma/Fife that just went through a multi-million dollar remodel does not have a disconnected number

Mar 12, 2013 | 04:22 PM

#24

brianh699

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From: Salt Lake City, Utah

Quote:

Originally Posted by Notraps

Just out of curiosity...is there a reason that they have a disconnected number? Seems a little fishy to me.

Edit...NM I'm slow today

Don't know I never call them. I've ordered thousands of dollars in parts from them their legit.

Didn't see your edit until after I posted whoops!

Last edited by brianh699; Mar 12, 2013 at 04:27 PM.

Mar 13, 2013 | 04:51 AM

#25

Notraps

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From: New Mexico

Thanks guys. I am on a work network that doesn't allow 800#s hence the disconnected notice. I called on my cell and the guy who answered was more than helpful. Great prices too.

Def Legit.

Jul 29, 2013 | 11:08 AM

#26

big bear

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From: Big Bear Lake, Cali

Quote:

Originally Posted by brianh699

The part shown earlier in this thread is $70 plus $10 to ship here https://parts.tituswilltoyota.com/pa...r_search.html?

404 error, not found.

Sep 27, 2013 | 08:27 PM

#27

Gevo

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Broke this during removal.. that $70 price tag is stupid

added to junkyard item list...:/

Feb 4, 2014 | 01:41 PM

#28

creeve4

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From: Utah

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buck87

I have been wondering... does it matter if the the two vacuum hoses get switched? I cannot figure out which hose goes onto the right side of the sensor and which one goes onto the left side. I cannot tell the difference in the motor or in steering when I switch them but I would still like to install them correctly.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buck87

I continued searching and found the answer. It does not matter if the hoses are switched because they complete a loop from the plenum to the idle up valve when the valve on the pump opens during turning.

I am in the same boat as you, how did you determine which hose connects which side?

Feb 6, 2014 | 01:25 AM

#29

BlazeRunner

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From: STV, AZ

These things are notorious for failing on the 1UZ, and the major consensus with the LS400 guys is to remove the idle up valve and replace it with a bolt, and plug the vacuum on the manifold. This effectively removes the system and stops all leaking, etc... you do lose the idle up effect at full crank and idle, but it's only like +-200 RPM and you most likely won't even notice it's gone.. I bought a remanufactured pump for one of my LS's and it was plugged when I received it. The pump never worked, so I went brand new Lexus OEM for $550 (!!!) and it was plugged also from factory. I believe some 1UZ-FE models came plugged from the factory, such as the SC400. In other words, you don't need it and even Toyota knows it. I would just plug it and be done for like $5 or less. Just go match the threads at a local hardware store.

Feb 6, 2014 | 06:11 AM

#30

scuba

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From: Austin, Texas

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlazeRunner

I did plug mine with a bolt after the replacement valve failed within 5k miles.

Mar 5, 2018 | 06:42 AM

#31

toy_tek

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Joined: Jun 2004

Posts: 1,342

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From: Phoenix, AZ

Anyone know what the tread pitch is for a bolt/plug? I need to buy a pump (my engine didn’t come with one) and don’t have the valve either -otherwise i could match it up. Thx

Mar 19, 2018 | 10:30 AM

#32

Skookum1

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From: Oregon

I can't believe I have not heard of this issue until now. This thread saved my bacon! My oil level has been increasing about half a quart every 3k miles and getting black and thinned out. And my power steering has been going down with no leaks other than a minor drip.

I bought a honda drain plug M14x1.5 and it threads in mostly, but wont go in all the way to seal on the crush washer. Teflon tape should be the ticket. Thanks all

Mar 24, 2018 | 09:01 AM

#33

toy_tek

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Joined: Jun 2004

Posts: 1,342

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From: Phoenix, AZ

I did a quick search for a 2003 3rz PS pressure switch and this is the part # I found. I wonder if it would be possible to change from a vacuum switch (i have a 99) to the electric, and wire it into the a/c idle up circuit (so the truck thinks the a/c is on when the PS pressure increases - thereby boosting the idle). I may look into that when i get around to wiring my swap.

Jun 26, 2020 | 08:03 PM

#34

Wyatt Nichols

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Joined: Jun 2020

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Where do the tubes go?

I cant figure out where to tubes go. I bought a truck and this part is all mangled with. Where do there two tubes connect? Where does the loop go?

Sep 17, 2020 | 09:57 PM

#35

Yodamotorhomes

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Joined: Sep 2020

Posts: 2

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From: PDX, OR

This is my first post but super important. I installed a reman PS pump and installed the air control valve from the old pump to the new one. Installed it and the threads were leaking. The valve has a female flare but the pump does not have a male flare to match up. How the hell do you seal this valve against the pump so it doesn’t leak?

Sep 17, 2020 | 09:58 PM

#36

Yodamotorhomes

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Joined: Sep 2020

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From: PDX, OR

Pretty sure the tubes don’t matter which port they hook to on the valve. They are two vacuum lines that originate in the intake.

Jul 6, 2025 | 12:10 PM

#37

GxJess

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Quote:

Originally Posted by scuba

Just wanted to post this as a little FYI in case your power steering fluid (ATF) is disappearing without signs of leaks or drips etc..

On the 95.5-00 3RZ there is whats called the "power steering air control valve" that is used to bump up idle when there is any steering input. This is done so as to not stress the pump.
When the valve is open, steering is straight, the air goes in and back out of the air control valve.
When the valve is closed, steering is turned, the air is "blocked" and thus creates a sort of vacuum leak that raises the idle a couple hundred RPM's which in turn increases pressure in the pump and lets you steer easier.

Somehow this valve started leaking and letting ATF from the pump go straight into my intake manifold.
I had to literally top off the pump after every 30-40 miles of driving or else the next time I started to drive I would get a horrible whine from the pump.
I ordered a gasket kit for the pump thinking that would solve it and after rebuilding the pump with all new gaskets nothing changed.
I finally was tipped off when after letting the truck idle for 20-30 mins (while airing up tires after wheeling) and then taking off there would be a huge blue/ white cloud of smoke coming from the exhaust.
I also noticed my oil level was overfull by about 1/2 a quart. The ATF must have gotten in the crank case too.

Anyway, after the long explanation, here are some pics of the damn thing.

The old valve, missing the vacuum hoses
Attachment 190766

I crossed the hoses and then watched ATF pour out of the valve. BINGO!
Attachment 190767

The new valve and the part number
Attachment 190768

Here is a picture of an 01 3RZ power steering. You can see there are no vacuum lines leaving the pump and none going into the intake.
Picture courtesy of Johnnie
Attachment 190769

01+ 3RZ's and (I THINK!) all 5VZ's use a different type of connection/ valve to signal the pressure/ idle increase.

The 03 3RZ FSM shows an electrical connector where the ACV is.
http://www.ncttora.com/FSM/2003/Repa...p2rzf/comp.pdf

The 03 5VZ FSM shows a different type of pressure switch. My 1999 Paper FSM shows the same type of connector like this on the 5VZ. So this must be the one setup they have. Feel free to chime in if you have an earlier 5VZ with a different type of connector.
http://www.ncttora.com/FSM/2003/Repa...p5vzf/comp.pdf

bolt it.

I know this thread is a few years old but my husband and I wanted to come on here and let everyone know, in our 03 Lexus gx470, we stuck a bolt in it from a Honda oil plug, 14mm/1.5 threaded it in with pipe tape, and it has worked perfectly. Can’t tell any difference to be honest. You’ll need a 17mm crow foot to get it out. You’ll also need 2 vacuum caps. One one the breather box and one on the intake.