you guys fogot alot of good subs on you lists

Digital Design very very very loud all of there subs are good more spl then sq though

Adire Audio --- Brahma (have a 10" comign be here tommrow)
bad ass sub good sq and spl mix

Resonant Engineering --- XXX bad ass sub good sq and spl mix

Image Dynamics --- IDMAX great sq sub -- Ran two myself took up to much room though -- sob dont make 10" in idmax or i would have replaced my 12"s with 10"s-- IDQ great budget sub

JL Audio makes great subs but i think there a ripe off

Kicker L7's are a nice bang for your buck also

Dont buy crap cause it will sound like crap. Installation makes everything, its the most important aspect. Chris

 

I have to pimp out Crystal...

Get a CMPx2!! You can pick them up for around the same price as a Brahma, etc, and you can be an original!

 

If you dont want mainstream and you want a sub that will win both sq and spl competitions get the Beyond Audio Inhuman.... very very bad ass sub.

the Beyond Audio Lineup
http://www3.sk.sympatico.ca/hebig1/index2.html

the Beyond Audio Forum to ask quesitons
http://pub26.ezboard.com/bcaraudioforum87927

ps - not saying that the others wont do this, but the inhuman is such a sleeper sub and the antithesis of mainstream.

 

thanks for all the info guys. i have another question along these lines. how do you bridge an amp? my buddy was saying if i bridge my current amp, i could run an audiobahn woofer that he has in his car.

 

A normal class a/b amp that has 2 channels usually can be bridged into a single channel. Usually this entails using the right - and left +

(I'm not exactly sure if it's that or left - and right +, as it's been a long time since ive bridged an a/b amp, so check your amp's instruction manual on bridging)

True mono block amps have only one channel to begin with...

 

so, could i bridge my sony 760 watt amp to run a single audiobahn ALUM12Q sub or solobaricl5 sub?

 

i think so, but what is it's model number? in the mean time im going to look at sony's site.

 

i honestly dont know about the model number. you mean on the amp right?. to be honest, id ont think they even make it anymore. i bought the whole system from my buddy about a year ago, so, who knows..hehe. thanks for dealing with the dumb questions everyone

 

If you have the instructions, they should tell you how much power you'll get if you bridge they channels. If that's the amp I'm thinking of, you will more than likely have enough power. I've gotten everything though my uncle at Sony and am happy with everything. I'm runnung two 12's (competition) and you can hear me coming far away. Once I get my mono amps, whoa watch out!

 

Oh yea, Bumpin' Yota, I eventually want to make a custom enclosure with amp racks and everything. Are there any kind of materials you recomend?

 

I just bought a Kicker L5 10 in the big vented box (2.25 sq ft I think). I am powering it with my Audiobahn A18001DQ amp, which I know is total overkill for this sub, but oh well...what can you do? Anyway, I've been very happy with it for the most part. It's not as clean as the sealed enclosures I've been used to in the past, but it sounds nice and hits harder than any single 10 I've ever heard. At $349 list, it's good bang for the buck if you've got a good amp to push it.

 

It's mainly stealth, the amps are showcased but not a showcar setup (see picture ... that's the amp rack/sub box that I just built but haven't covered in vinyl yet). Right now I'm running the speakers in the stock location with the tweeters flush mounted in the stock kickpanel area. Haven't had time to make kickpanels (and also would like to go to a 3way setup). Even in the stock location I score pretty high in imaging, but do lose points on stage height and depth. With kickpanels, it would sound so much better ... one of these days I'll eventually get there

Your system is going to be awesome with those Dynaudios. Put them in kickpanels and get a good matching sub and you'll blow everyone away

 

MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) is the best. Some hardware stores mislabel it HDF (High Density Fiberboard.) But the stuff ya need to use weighs about 100lbs for a 4' x 8 ' x 3/4" sheet. Any typical saw can be used to cut it - table or circular saw. To join the sides, you'll need Elmer's Probond and #8 2 1/2" drywall screws. Be sure to countersink a pilot hole or the wood will split when the screw begins to dive. Also do not screw into the edge of the MDF if the end is any closer than 3" Once the box is built, I tend to install bracing if needed then attack the interior with fiberglass. This ensures that boxes are truely sealed except for the port.

enjoy!

Steve

 

when getting a new sub, do you have to match the ohms the sub has to the ohms the amp has? or does it not matteR?

 

Basically, the amp will have a minimum impeadance that it can operate at, and that is the impeadance (ohms) you want to shoot for.

I break that rule every now and then and doing so can be very dangerous to the equipment if you dont know your system EXTREMELY well.

If the amp says dont go below 2ohms, you dont want to go below that.

Steve

 

im an eclipse fan because of the well rounded performance...when it comes to subs, its up to you...do you want booty bass, tight bass, rumble (i dont think anyone likes that though),...you should really get a custom box...it makes a world of difference...sub positions is key too for what you want in the bass department

 

I had a set of 88150.4's loved em. They took 4kw quite well too....lol

Steve