Yeah...I'm quite excited about this new ATF. The guy I'm getting it from has an '86 yota pickup and says that it LOVES the Amsoil.

I'm probably still going to stick with the M1 diff and trans case oil though. I'm going to put 75/140 in the diffs and 75/90 in the trans case.

 

there you go.. good luck and have fun.. fyi, you can run regular dino oil in the motor if you want to save some $$.. lucky us those v6's are very easy on oil. i would run maxlife or penzoil 10w30 or 5w30 from 3-5k miles.. i like maxlife bc it has the best additive package out of all dino oils it seems like.. if you want to run a syn in the motor just find some on sale.. i never pay full price for syn for my motor..

 

Do this ...Pull your dipstick from the trans....Whipe on a clean white paper towl,nice and red.....pull your dipstick from a factory filled powersteering unit whipe on towl...its yellowish/brown and slightly differant consistancy,Will also have a differant smell than the DEX.

The thing is TOYOTA FACTORY filled the powersteering units with a generic powersteering fluid from the factory,SO YOU COULD PUT ALMOST ANY KIND OF FLUID IN IT TO TOP IT OFF,they choose DEX to top off cause its readily avaliable all over the world,and cheap,Same goes for there trans,untill recently when they wanted more life out of there fluids and higher PSI for efficiency and quality.There is nothing special about the fluid in the steering units and IT IS NOT DEXI,DEXII,or even DEXIII.

So IF TOYOTA States that if DEX III is acceptable fluid to run in powersteering,Then T-IV will work the same if not better where TOYOTA calls for DEXIII or equivalent.

I have alteast 6 or7 TOYOTA TSB specifically stating this...T-IV is backwards compatable for use in TOYOTA DEXI,DEXII,DEXIII trans and hydralic systems. Will DEXIII work fine...YES...Will T-IV work fine...YES,Will T-IV last longer and provide higher psi,and break down qualities..YES it will.

 

I actually run 10/40 in winter and 20/50 in summer for my engine oil. It runs much better with more weighted oil IMO. My bud recommended it and I love the change in idle and smoothness. I would tell you to give it a shot in your engine if you have over 100k miles, that's what I was told to do.

The thicker weight is easier for the pump to move up to the top of the engine. And we all know that start-ups are the worst time for engine wear.

 

dude dexIII and tiv are different in a lot of ways.. yes TIV is better but is NOT backwards compatible to dexIII where do you get this crap from again?? my techs laughed at this when i talked with them.. they are totally different fluids.. but if it works in your truck then use it but dont spread shady info with no proof here..

 

btw the damn cap even sayd use dexron.... no where does it say use tiv...lol man......... i am not trying to argue this bc if it works for you great but you be the guinny pig not us

 

The door jam sticker also says to run only 32 PSI, nothing else.

Your manual does not ask for synthetic anything...yet you put it everywhere.



Thanks for your information, but let it go.

 

uhh the synthetic form of DEXIII IS DEXIII, DUH.... now implying that TIV is backwards compatable to DEXIII is just dumb bc its so untrue. it maybe similar but no where no how no one has ever claimed it to be backwards compatible. its ok you dont understand the benefits of a synthetic product but i would do the research.. you may learn something you may not have known to begin with

 

One more quick question as I'm about to change the atf, just waiting for those new magnets to come in the mail tomorrow.

What exactly is the sequence I should go in?

Here's what I'm thinking...

1. Drain the pan and take it off with a mallet or paintscraper as it could be stuck in place with that gasket.

2. Clean the pan off and put in the new magnets.

3. Remove the old filter and put in the new one.

4. Reattach the pan with some FIPG.

5. Should I let it sit overnight so the gasket can properly take? I'm using Permatex "Right Stuff" and it says that it sets in one minute. Also, do I need to fill the pan back up with fluid before I start the entire drain of the system?

6. Detach the hose from the radiator that goes to the pan and the one that goes into the radiator. The one that goes from the radiator to the motor should suck atf, so I'm going to put that hose in the new ATF. The other hose should spit out the old ATF, that one will go into a bucket.

7. Start the truck and start swapping out ATF. Should I put all the new ATF in a bucket so the hose can have a constant source or just go from bottle to bottle? Is this process a bad idea and I should just pour the ATF in the fill port (where dipstick is located) and drain ATF through radiator hose?

8. When ATF is switched out (which will take how long????) what do I do? Turn off the truck and quickly hook the hose back up? How much of the good stuff is going to spill out when I'm doing this?

9. Check to see if fluid level is correct and drive truck around a bit. After some driving check level again to be sure it's properly filled.

Did I miss anything?

I just don't want to get out there and mess something up.

Thanks!!

 

Yes, you don't want the pump to run dry IMHO


Wrong!!! The return line will NOT suck the ATF in. You have to push it in, that's what the flush machine does. Or you can pour it into the tranny fill tube. If you are pouring it in the fill tube only drain out a few quarts at a time. Then put a couple qts in, and drain a couple more out the out line. Also you will probably have a syphoning effect going on from the return line, so you may need to plug that line though the whole process.

When pouring in the fill tube go slow, and look to make sure your o-ring in the middle of the fill tube isn't leaking ATF out all over the floor.

 

Ok...one more quick question. When I refill the pan I should put the new fluid in it right? Does the dipstick tube go directly to the pan? I would imagine so as I don't know how else I could refill the pan.

Essentially what I think will be happening is that I'll be pouring new fluid into the pan and it will be sucked up by the pump and put through the tranny. Then the fluid that's been through the tranny hits the radiator, when it exits the radiator instead of going back in to the pan for it's second trip through the system it's going to go into a bucket while the new ATF is added through the dipstick tube.

Correct?

 

Yes, yes, I think you got it.

 

Well, I took off the pan, cleaned it, and put the new magnets in. (And holy crap are those little buggers strong!!!)

I clean off where the gasket was on the pan and on the bottom of the tranny.

I replaced the filter, mine was super clean inside though!

I put all that back together with some FIPG.

The total amount of ATF that I collected in the bucket was around 5 quarts. This includes what came out of the filter, which was about a half a quart maybe? I'm not really sure.

I put three quarts back in and am going to wait until tomorrow to refill the rest and replace the rest of the ATF.

Am I going to need to remove my skid plates in order to get to the radiator hose that I'll need to drain the old ATF from?

Also, I had to pour the new ATF very very slowly in order to not build up back pressure in that little dipstick tube and get overflow out of the tube. Is this going to be a problem when I try to replace my ATF that's in the pump? I don't want to start doing it and have the pump run dry because I can't pour in the ATF fast enough.

Thanks!

 

From above....yes it is a slow process adding 15 qts of ATF pouring through the fill tube.

You will have to shut off the motor (stop the tranny pump) while filling, no way you can keep up with it running. Well actually... there is a way, but it involves a flush machine.

I made an experimental flush machine out of a 5 gal plastic bucket. I'll try to get some pics of it next time I'm in the attic. Basiclly it is a plastic pressure vessel (I know...oxymoron) but I did test it and it held 15-20 psi without blowing up LOL. It will force the ATF in the return line. I drilled a hole and put in a valve stem, and used a small 12 volt air pump to keep the pressure up while flushing, but I still needed to shut down the truck to keep up with the tranny pump (that pump is fast).

 

Yeah, I thought that would be the case.

What about that return line....do I need to take off my skid plates to get to it?

 

I just did a flush this weekend to try and recover from a leaky radiator/tran cooler last week... 20-24 quarts of fluid until it ran red out the return line. Lots of starting/stopping but not too bad, and didn't take all that long to do. I started by draining pan, filling 3-4 quarts, then running for a few seconds, refilling, repeating... etc

a remote start made this much easier, as I could start/stop while watching the return line had a friend helping, but was still easier

I plan on running another 12 quarts through it next week, just to be sure, and in the summer I want to drop the pan and replace the filter as well... any one have experience with the fill/tube being an issue when removing pan? I have heard it commonly breaks off, is this true? (MI truck = more salt/rust)

 

and yes, return line is easiest accessible at connection to radiator, but when disconnecting mine to install a aux cooler (to bypass/remove radiator from system) the fitting completely broke off and I had to get a new radiator ($$$)

 

Mine didn't break when I took the pan off. Just be sure that you unbolt the fill tube from your engine as it's fastened right near the dipstick.

 

yeah, i have heard that is an alternate, but also that it is supposed to be able to be taken apart, guessing most people just drop it with the pan?

 

Yeah...it takes some twisting and turning to get it out but that joint in the middle of the fill tube is nice in that regard. I left my truck on the ground and still got the pan out from underneath it. It's a little more tricky to get it back exactly where it goes, but doable. Just took me a little trial and error to get it right, I also had to wipe the pan back out after I got it almost back into place as crud from above was falling down on it while I was working it back into position. I had some new ATF that I pour on a rag to wipe it out, all the dust stuck to it pretty well.

Just be sure that you don't put your form in place gasket back on the pan until you get it in proper position to put it back into place as you may take too much time to get it there and have a dry gasket by the time you figure it out.

I used Permatex "Right Stuff" and it worked great, very easy to apply in a tight space under the truck.

I do think that I stripped out a bolt on the pan when I was reattaching it, but there is like 30 bolts on there and all the holes got filled with the FIPG so I don't think it's an issue, it'll just get locked into place like the pan when the gasket seals.

I just did this last night so if you have any other questions about how it went let me know!