Auto V6 with 35's, What else should be upgraded for mileage/reliability?
#23
Aaron
#24
Just to argue, my track-prepped bugeye WRX used to hit 30mpg on the freeway if I could keep from driving like a crazy person, and the STi I own now will hit 25mpg for a tank with mellow freeway driving too. If you can stay out of the boost (and P&P everything with lots of good flow), the little Subaru motors can be very efficient. My brother's WRX wagon gets 28-30mpg on the freeway too, and it's practically stock. The real problem for the 2.0-liter WRXs are the tumble-generator valves upstream of the heads - they're there to improve emissions, but they become a real choke-point. Hog those out and mileage goes up with the flow.
33"s, huh? That's what I was planning for my '97 4Runner. 35-inch tires are cool but that's a lot.
The E-Locker switch is to the left of the steering column. They were optional on most of the gen-three 4Runners - I was trying to find one myself, but it got to be too much work and I had to overlook a few good 4Runners that were only missing that feature. It's just a button labelled "RR Locker", I think. The factory E-Locker is decent, but not great, until you override the MPH cutoff. If your rig doesn't have the E-Locker, there's a few other outfits making electronic lockers like Eaton, and you can always buck up and buy the ARB - those always work.
I have a friend with a leftover new FJ rear axle with the E-Locker that we're going to look at to swap instead of doing the ARB, and just control the electronics with a toggle. If it's too tricky, ARB it is.
STICK
33"s, huh? That's what I was planning for my '97 4Runner. 35-inch tires are cool but that's a lot.
The E-Locker switch is to the left of the steering column. They were optional on most of the gen-three 4Runners - I was trying to find one myself, but it got to be too much work and I had to overlook a few good 4Runners that were only missing that feature. It's just a button labelled "RR Locker", I think. The factory E-Locker is decent, but not great, until you override the MPH cutoff. If your rig doesn't have the E-Locker, there's a few other outfits making electronic lockers like Eaton, and you can always buck up and buy the ARB - those always work.
I have a friend with a leftover new FJ rear axle with the E-Locker that we're going to look at to swap instead of doing the ARB, and just control the electronics with a toggle. If it's too tricky, ARB it is.
STICK
Last edited by SharpStick; Jan 27, 2009 at 11:27 PM.
#25
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
From: home:Oahu,Hawaii School: Fort Collins, CO
wassup man, like many other people don't know from other states, but we're in colorado. 4x4's are a dime a dozen. i don't think you'll have a hard time finding that limited with the locker. it works out pretty well too because limiteds are auto as well. ifyou wait for it and keep searching you'll find the truck you like.
now with 35's and an auto is a different question. i'm thinking 4.88's here with that auto. i don't think 5.29's are mandatory but they would be better if its going offroad, i'm just thinking 4.88's because you'll be having long road trips to the mountains and its still able to pull 35's in my opinion. no doubt about it though you'll need gearing especially mountain passes like eisenhower at 11k+ elevation. your engine is going to be begging you for a break guaranteed. 35's on an ifs is really pushing it imo.
many people on here do aux trans cooler as they had problems with theirs. just do a quick search and you'll be able to read about it.
i'd say just leave it rear locked and get working on you armor that you can fabricate. test it out wheelin and get a feel for it. i wouldn't consider a limited slip a locker. and manual hubs well a quick search will show that they can get pricey even if you do a junk yard swap. I saw manual hubs off a tacoma and the junkyard wanted 175 per assembly per side here in fort collins. + bearings + seals + maybe even shafts...etc get's pricey just to go with an auto locker. for 200-300 more you could possibly get an arb setup.
good luck and don't forget to post pics of the 4runner.
now with 35's and an auto is a different question. i'm thinking 4.88's here with that auto. i don't think 5.29's are mandatory but they would be better if its going offroad, i'm just thinking 4.88's because you'll be having long road trips to the mountains and its still able to pull 35's in my opinion. no doubt about it though you'll need gearing especially mountain passes like eisenhower at 11k+ elevation. your engine is going to be begging you for a break guaranteed. 35's on an ifs is really pushing it imo.
many people on here do aux trans cooler as they had problems with theirs. just do a quick search and you'll be able to read about it.
i'd say just leave it rear locked and get working on you armor that you can fabricate. test it out wheelin and get a feel for it. i wouldn't consider a limited slip a locker. and manual hubs well a quick search will show that they can get pricey even if you do a junk yard swap. I saw manual hubs off a tacoma and the junkyard wanted 175 per assembly per side here in fort collins. + bearings + seals + maybe even shafts...etc get's pricey just to go with an auto locker. for 200-300 more you could possibly get an arb setup.
good luck and don't forget to post pics of the 4runner.
#26
Just to argue, my track-prepped bugeye WRX used to hit 30mpg on the freeway if I could keep from driving like a crazy person, and the STi I own now will hit 25mpg for a tank with mellow freeway driving too. If you can stay out of the boost (and P&P everything with lots of good flow), the little Subaru motors can be very efficient. My brother's WRX wagon gets 28-30mpg on the freeway too, and it's practically stock. The real problem for the 2.0-liter WRXs are the tumble-generator valves upstream of the heads - they're there to improve emissions, but they become a real choke-point. Hog those out and mileage goes up with the flow.
33"s, huh? That's what I was planning for my '97 4Runner. 35-inch tires are cool but that's a lot.
The E-Locker switch is to the left of the steering column. They were optional on most of the gen-three 4Runners - I was trying to find one myself, but it got to be too much work and I had to overlook a few good 4Runners that were only missing that feature. It's just a button labelled "RR Locker", I think. The factory E-Locker is decent, but not great, until you override the miles per hour cutoff. If your rig doesn't have the E-Locker, there's a few other outfits making electronic lockers like Eaton, and you can always buck up and buy the ARB - those always work.
I have a friend with a leftover new FJ rear axle with the E-Locker that we're going to look at to swap instead of doing the ARB, and just control the electronics with a toggle. If it's too tricky, ARB it is.
STICK
33"s, huh? That's what I was planning for my '97 4Runner. 35-inch tires are cool but that's a lot.
The E-Locker switch is to the left of the steering column. They were optional on most of the gen-three 4Runners - I was trying to find one myself, but it got to be too much work and I had to overlook a few good 4Runners that were only missing that feature. It's just a button labelled "RR Locker", I think. The factory E-Locker is decent, but not great, until you override the miles per hour cutoff. If your rig doesn't have the E-Locker, there's a few other outfits making electronic lockers like Eaton, and you can always buck up and buy the ARB - those always work.
I have a friend with a leftover new FJ rear axle with the E-Locker that we're going to look at to swap instead of doing the ARB, and just control the electronics with a toggle. If it's too tricky, ARB it is.
STICK
About the locker, I found a ton of runners I want to go look at so I will keep an eye out for it, but it won't be the end of the world if I don't find one with it, looks like the arb is a pretty good option too.
#27
now with 35's and an auto is a different question. i'm thinking 4.88's here with that auto. i don't think 5.29's are mandatory but they would be better if its going offroad, i'm just thinking 4.88's because you'll be having long road trips to the mountains and its still able to pull 35's in my opinion. no doubt about it though you'll need gearing especially mountain passes like eisenhower at 11k+ elevation. your engine is going to be begging you for a break guaranteed.
I was just going to mention that. SC4Runner is in Cali, at sea level, Colorado is a mile higher so the air is a lot thinner and the engine won't have the same performance. I can notice a HUGE difference between Kansas and Colorado. I'd do a minimum of 4.88's for 35's
Last edited by nosfanatic2006; Jan 28, 2009 at 03:26 AM.
#28
You will have less power/mileage at altitude than at sea level. Mine was unlocked and I put in an ARB. It is a great locker. Instant on and off. If you find a good 4runner without a locker, get it and put in an ARB. I'm guessing by looking ar your siginature that shouldn't be a problem.
Now the big question that everyone is thinking but no one has the guts to ask. Is your avatar a picture of you? If you are that young, you sure have some nice vehicles.
Now the big question that everyone is thinking but no one has the guts to ask. Is your avatar a picture of you? If you are that young, you sure have some nice vehicles.
#29
now with 35's and an auto is a different question. i'm thinking 4.88's here with that auto. i don't think 5.29's are mandatory but they would be better if its going offroad, i'm just thinking 4.88's because you'll be having long road trips to the mountains and its still able to pull 35's in my opinion. no doubt about it though you'll need gearing especially mountain passes like eisenhower at 11k+ elevation. your engine is going to be begging you for a break guaranteed. 35's on an ifs is really pushing it imo.
#31
You will have less power/mileage at altitude than at sea level. Mine was unlocked and I put in an ARB. It is a great locker. Instant on and off. If you find a good 4runner without a locker, get it and put in an ARB. I'm guessing by looking ar your siginature that shouldn't be a problem.
Now the big question that everyone is thinking but no one has the guts to ask. Is your avatar a picture of you? If you are that young, you sure have some nice vehicles.
Now the big question that everyone is thinking but no one has the guts to ask. Is your avatar a picture of you? If you are that young, you sure have some nice vehicles.
About the avatar lol, it is my girlfriend, I am 24 and so is she, I just thought it would be goofy to put a pic of my honda in there, and she laughed when I showed it to her haha.
#33
#34
Okay, so this is a chick thread now? Nothing against your woman, of course, but if I want soft-core porn I'll go to B. Hussein Obama's stimulus plan website. Can't figure out how else people would be buying his bullship...
Then again, I was trying to Bogart the thread with Subaru stuff. Alright, we all suck.
STICK it
Then again, I was trying to Bogart the thread with Subaru stuff. Alright, we all suck.
STICK it
#36
After measuring the distance between the rear door and the rear bumper, which is ~33". If, under compression, the axle isn't exactly centered then even a 33 will rub.
I don't think its possable to fit a 35 without lots of cutting. The front? That's a whole different case. The only way to see if they will fit is with the actual tire/wheel combo mounted and inflated. Then the combo is bolted on to the vehicle and the suspension cycled and the fronts turned lock to lock while cycling the suspension.
I don't think its possable to fit a 35 without lots of cutting. The front? That's a whole different case. The only way to see if they will fit is with the actual tire/wheel combo mounted and inflated. Then the combo is bolted on to the vehicle and the suspension cycled and the fronts turned lock to lock while cycling the suspension.
#37
After measuring the distance between the rear door and the rear bumper, which is ~33". If, under compression, the axle isn't exactly centered then even a 33 will rub.
I don't think its possable to fit a 35 without lots of cutting. The front? That's a whole different case. The only way to see if they will fit is with the actual tire/wheel combo mounted and inflated. Then the combo is bolted on to the vehicle and the suspension cycled and the fronts turned lock to lock while cycling the suspension.
I don't think its possable to fit a 35 without lots of cutting. The front? That's a whole different case. The only way to see if they will fit is with the actual tire/wheel combo mounted and inflated. Then the combo is bolted on to the vehicle and the suspension cycled and the fronts turned lock to lock while cycling the suspension.
#38
#40
Why? My lift was designed to allow the fitment of the 315s with a body lift and I knew going into it that there would be some cutting involved. The main reason we had to cut my front end was due to the low height I decided to set the front Billies at (2"). It still rubs a bit and may need a bit more trimming but I am very happy with how everything works together.
Last edited by Bighead; Jan 28, 2009 at 04:53 PM.



