oh hell, a GS Coupe 6sp will take a runner w/ SC/URD on stock gears and 33's... now on 31's, it would be a toss-up until about 90 or so and the legend would walk away like nobody's business.

i passed on one about a month ago w/ about 140k on it. it was white. i'm holding out for a black one.

 

what's the price you've got going?

 

they just sent the email today about lunchtime...

 

Thanks Andy- I guess i should really read through the whole thread then....... ok, keep me in the loop guys-

 

Side note...

Just got off the phone with the chick that has the 02 4x2 with S/C/7th/Nos here in town and I didn't even know this, but she works at a tranny place and so she is going to check into what it would cost for them to do it. They can upgrade both the valve body and torque converter for whoever is interested. For our application though, I think the valve body sounds like enough. I'll keep everyone posted!

 

I talked to John on the phone a couple of hours ago. He said he is up for a group buy. He is already a lot lower in price than Level 10. Give him a call and get this set up before he changes his mind!

Dave

 

Be careful with who you trust to do your tranny! I went with IPT because he has more experience than anyone else in the country. One of the guys on CT went with a local company that told him they could do it with no problem and he ended up with a mess. I know I sound like I work for IPT but I was so happy with the job he did and his customer service that I try to tell everybody with a S/C and auto.
Dave

 

Not fair? Read this and look at the reason John said he can't offer a group buy a few months ago.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...ight=group+buy

 

I have talked to John quite a bit since he did my valve body. He is a straight shooter. He offered the group buy. I didn't ask him to. Even though I didn't get in on a group buy, I don't care. I would like to see folks get the upgrade and not fry their tranny clutches. I don't care how much less they pay than I did.

Dave

 

I have a wideband o2 sensor w/ FTC and AFR display. He hooke dup his laptop w/ R4 software and an OBDII. I was at WOT around 10.5...too lean. I felt it, but he programmed it. We drove around for over an hour. City driving, cruising on the interstate, acclerating to speed, making boost while accelerating, WOT, and 25 mph-Omph.
He made adjustments to various cell values based on fuel trims, etc in both the closed and open loop.
WE stoppped the car many, many times and reloaded different maps.
MY truck is twice as fast. Holy crap, i can't believe it and i have 285s

Going to call John first thing in the am!!!!

 

'k... So he's just tuning "the normal" way. btw, when you say "10.5" you mean an A/FR of 10.5:1 right? That'd be way "rich", not lean.

The number represent a ratio of fuel to air, so as the number to the left of the colon gets smaller, then you're adding air. 14:1 is leaner ("the mixture has more air") than 13:1.

fwiw, an engine will tend to make it's best power around 12.7:1...



Austin; cool. I just wanted to be sure.

 

yes ye yes, rich. 10.5:1. I know that it makes power ideally best at 12 but i believe i am around 11.5:1 ish at WOT, pretty close.

I'll hopefully talk to John tomorrow about the vb upgrade

 

I can do that with stock 3.0 I have now and no s/c.

Of course the object in front of me has to be really solid....t poles dont work as the bumper bends.........

 

I don't want to beat a horse here, but I think it's important to point this out...

The difference from 11.5:1 and 12.7:1 is pretty big. The entire scale that's typically shown on a graphing meter only runs from from 16:1-12.5:1. I can feel a difference when I move from 13:1 to 12.5:1

I'm not suggesting that you tweak it, but 11.5:1 is still a lot of fuel.

 

Okay feel free to smack me for this one but what is a URD, and why does it cost $700. Fill me in on all the details if you don't mind. I don't like reading things I don't understand fully.

 

There are two "classic" problems with the supercharger on the 3.4L engines. One is a pinging issue that tends to happen in High Gear/Low RPM (sometimes talked about as "HG/LR"); the other is a NASTY lean-out problem at WOT.

There are generally two ways to deal with these issues: a) get the "7th injector" kit fom TRD; b) get the kit from "URD" which is "URD USA", which is the company that "Gadget" and Brian Trager started a while back.

The 7th kit from TRD works well, but it's not tweakable. The URD kit is a lot more work to install, but is VERY tweakable.

 

Scott,
Its a kit gadget has put together to remedy the fuel starvation we get with an S/C. Its bigger injectors, smaller pulley (more boost) and a fully customizable computer to fine tune everything.

Dave,
Thanks for asking about the group buy! I agree about the tranny stuff, I just asked her if she wanted to get in on it and she was like, well I work at a tranny shop... so I said why not? Get me a price. At least I have a place that can take everything apart for me and put it back together while I'm gone.

 

FYI:

The TRD 7th Injector Kit is about $1100 off the net and like mentioned above is literally a 7th injector that will inject fuel b/w the throttlebody and the SC intake and is pretty much plug and play, but you can't trim it how you want it. You can get them used from time to time, but the controllers are vehicle and year specific, so a controller from a 2002 taco may or may not work correctly on my 99 4runner or any other 3.4L.

The URD kit is $900 new, and is 6 new injectors, a new fuel pump, 6 new spark plugs, a new thermostat, and a controller to manage the extra fuel and is fully adjustable so the system can be "tweaked". The URD kits are very rare to find used. $700 is the used price w/o the larger fuel pump.

 

hmm... that reminds me... I need to get a cooler thermostat...

 

Mark, my truck seems to run best at 11.8 to 12.1 AFR. Gadget said in a post somewhere that he trys to street tune to 11.8.

Dave