Hey Bumpin'

Damn, over a year since somone posted in this thread...

I will have to skim thru this thread and see if there was anyone with a 2nd gen auto that had problems with that. I don't recall anyone coming right out an saying so. I've received a lot of emails and PM's regarding this mod over the past year and none of them have mentioned any problems regarding that issue either.

I say just go ahead and do it and if you have problems, then we'll work on a solution.

Peace and good luck! Let me know how it turns out.
G

 

Looks like something i may want to look at. Got a ? though you say there is no noticable decrease in fuel economy from pre-mod. How can this be? If you're running 350RPM over norm at any throttle position then you would be burning more fuel would'nt you?. I ask this because fuel here is running at about 2.24US/gal. for reg. and I want to do all I can to get max. power/performance & fuel econ. out of my 3.0 . Please get back if you have any ideas on this front . Cheers aviator

 

The RPM change is ONLY at idle. Once you add throttle input, the the RPM's aren't any different than they would be without the mod. The reason for the RPM change at idle is because the ECU "thinks" the engine is running cooler and therefore compensates by raising idle speed. The main benefits to this mod are a slight timing advance and slight positive fuel trim changes.

Once you get above 2500-2800 RPM's or so, the maximum advance that is programmed into the ECU is reached, so the mod has no effect at that point. The main benefits of this mod are a stronger bottom end and midrange, which helps with most of your driving around town and on the trrail.

The reason for there not being a noticeable change in fuel economy is because the timing advance offsets the additional fuel trim. I suppose if you went WAY overboard with the adjustment, you could really kill your fuel economy. But, if you did do that, your performance would suffer as well since you'd be WAY rich and the truck would run like crap.

Hope this helps.
G

 

I understand now i may just try that mod.

Hey doc it hurts when I do dis



edit: Doc I just read yer sig. Are those iridium plugs worth the bucks?

 

Hey Dr. Z,

Someone is selling a speed chip for toyotas on ebay...

Search for text " SPEED CHIP TOYOTA TUNDRA " can this be real?

Thanks for all the info on the mod....peace out!

 

Aviator, sorry for taking so long to answer your question: The Iridium's are definitely nice plugs. But, they're not any better than the stock NGK Platinums, with the exception of possibly having a longer life span. If you want a plug that will last a loooong time, then get the Iridiums.

No Dice, the "chips" they sell on E-Bay are fixed resistors and they are targeted at the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) Sensor and they do nothing for our vehicles.

Peace.
G

 

I read about using a potentiometer to fool the IAT and thus increase horsepower. In the interest of saving gas, would it be wise to alter the resistance to below normal to reduce the gas into the engine, for example, while in 5th gear on the freeway? If this is feasible, what is the resistance range for this application? I have a 1995 4runner 3.0 liter 5spd, and it's not bad in the fuel efficiency spectrum, but a little more could help.

 

I just did this mod on my 1st gen. 89 v6 4runner. I think I spliced into the wrong wire. I say this because when I turned the pot up the idle did not change and neither did the temp. gauge. Am I reading the guides wrong or did I just get the wrong wire.
Here is what I did to find the wire. I measured the ressitance directly off the sensor ~32 ohms. I found two wires with higher resistances on was ~38 ohms the other was ~118 ohms. I assumed the lower res. one but there could be an additional resistor in line. Was I wrong in doing it this way? None of the colors matched up on the diagram I had either.

 

wow... umm, given the lengths and gauge of the wires that are involved, there should be no difference in resistance measured at the sensor versus at the ECU. Add that to none of the colors matching the diagram and I'd bet that you got the wrong wire.

The "right" way to do this is to use your multimeter to find the right wire at the ECU. You do this by looking for continuity (0 ohms resistance) between one of the wires on the sensor and a wire in one of the plugs at the ECU. You'll need to extend your meter wires, but you can easily do that with most anything you have laying around - 20 gauge hookup wire, 18 gauge lampcord, etc. Just do the temporarily by stripping about 2" of wire then wrapping the bare end around the end of a meter probe - tape it up so that it doesn't slip off.

One of the wires on the sensor will be to ground - that's easy to check within the engine compartment so rule that out first. The other one is what you're looking for at the ECU side.


Good luck!

 

Anyone done this on 22re, Ill try it out if someone can give me some intructions. Or atleast a few hints.

 

Dr. Z, I have been lingering over this old thread for awhile and think it's a great time for a revival.


I was curious if the wattage of the pot matters - I found a 500ohm pot but it is 4 watts - I think it will be fine but just anted to see your opinion.

thank you very much,


Chris


ps. I am going to do this on my 1988 Hilux Surf Limited - Auto with a 3Y-EU engine - the engine is the same used in Toyota vans stateside - it is fuel injected and does have the ECT sensor. Pic in my Sig......

 

Mark, you still reccomend your BR-2? I see they have a BR-3, cosidering purchase.

 

HA!! This reminds me of moding the APC in a SAAB. The guys at www.saabcentral.com are awesome when it comes to this stuff. I bet you'd get along with 'em great Dr. Z!! Especialy the guys on the Classic 900 board. Great bunch of guys on there, and talk about an international forum!!

 

does thiis really make much of a diffrence? i guess what i really want to know is it worth the couple bucks for the potentiometer?

 

sounds like a sweet mod I may try it one day...
How's your mileage now after having it on for a while? Sounds to me like you'd be burning more gas not less...
do have an idea for 93_runner06 problem. could you not put an 'override" switch on the wires to the tranny that would 'enable' the OD switch?
it sounds like a simple on-on switch would do it. In pos1 it is normal for when he has the pot zero'd (smog test etc.) and pos2 is override to activate the OD circuit. all you'd have to do is put a diode on the line out of the ECU so you don't "back feed" the circuit when in override mode.
what do you think? Cheers aviator

 

Doc,

Do you know approx. how much max. horse power can be gained by this ECT Mod? My current pet project is a 91 4x4 DLX x-cab pickup with a 3.0 v6 and a 5spd. It runs smooth as silk but seems to lack the power that my 97 5spd.v6 T-100 had even though its a lighter truck. I'm looking to do as many of your mods as possible to gain more ponys. Do you recommend any? Thanks for any help. It is GREATLY appreciated!

OH.....I'm new to your forum and love it! You guys really got it goin on here!! A few dudes from toyota nation turned me on to your site! Definitely Totally awsome!!
*HERMIT*the T-Tech

 

Do you guys think this would work on an ATV? If so, does it matter which pot I get?

Chris

 

The ATV would have to have EFI and an ECU with an ECT sensor. It should work given that the Temp switch is a negative pressure/ resistance type. I'm guessing you have a newer 4WD beast.

 

Correct, but what type of pot should I get or how do I determine what's going to work? Or, do I just get the one everyone's got for the 4runners and assume it should work?

Chris

 

Wow what a great thread this should be a sticky i love cheap power!!!


Edit: sorry I see this already in the performance section... newb power!